-
Modelers Alliance has updated the forum software on our website. We have migrated all post, content and user accounts but we could not migrate the passwords.
This requires that you manually reset your password.
Please click here, http://modelersalliance.org/forums/login to go to logon page and use the "Forgot your Password" option.
Arnhem STUG
- Thread starter reconron
- Start date
reconron
Active member
That's a killer Stuh,John.
It will be hard to come even close to this one.Thanks for sharing!
Greetings,Ron.
Sherman 18
Master at Arms
Looking good Ron, at least your trying "Zimm", I still run away from any kits where you have to apply it to be correct.
James
I'm in the same boat.
Can't wait to see more Ron!
reconron
Active member
After seeing Terry's exhaust Step By Step,I decided to do the exhausts first.
This might not be an exact copy,but more like a variation.
To give the exhaust some structure,I first used the "melting glue method".
Brush some model glue on the exhaust and stipple with a piece of sand paper or a stiff haired brush on the glue
layer.
After painting the exhaust in a rusty looking acrylic color (I used Vallejo for this) give the exhaust several
layers of hair spray and let dry.Then I brush painted Tamiya's XF-60 Dark Yellow over it,you don't have to cover the entire part with paint.
I used Tamiya's ordinary thinner and a stiff brush to remove some of the Dark Yellow,to show the rusty colored
Vallejo paint beneath it.
I used three brown color pigments,rusty colors,and a grey one to alter the tone.
Use the pigments with subtle dry brushing,if you feel like that you have aplied too much,you can use a kitchen sponge with a bit of Dark Yellow paint on it and push it against the surface...less is more.
If done subtle,the pigments will bleed through the Dark Yellow paint.
For the bare shiny metal I used my trusty Koh-I-Noor graphite pencil (ofcourse you can also use metal color pigments)
Oh,I'm not using a pigment fixer,the mat paint surface is great for using genuine pigments without the use of any fixer.(it would be different if the surface was gloss coated)
More to come later,thanks for dropping by!
Greetings,Ron.
This might not be an exact copy,but more like a variation.
To give the exhaust some structure,I first used the "melting glue method".
Brush some model glue on the exhaust and stipple with a piece of sand paper or a stiff haired brush on the glue
layer.
After painting the exhaust in a rusty looking acrylic color (I used Vallejo for this) give the exhaust several
layers of hair spray and let dry.Then I brush painted Tamiya's XF-60 Dark Yellow over it,you don't have to cover the entire part with paint.
I used Tamiya's ordinary thinner and a stiff brush to remove some of the Dark Yellow,to show the rusty colored
Vallejo paint beneath it.
I used three brown color pigments,rusty colors,and a grey one to alter the tone.
Use the pigments with subtle dry brushing,if you feel like that you have aplied too much,you can use a kitchen sponge with a bit of Dark Yellow paint on it and push it against the surface...less is more.
If done subtle,the pigments will bleed through the Dark Yellow paint.
For the bare shiny metal I used my trusty Koh-I-Noor graphite pencil (ofcourse you can also use metal color pigments)
Oh,I'm not using a pigment fixer,the mat paint surface is great for using genuine pigments without the use of any fixer.(it would be different if the surface was gloss coated)
More to come later,thanks for dropping by!
Greetings,Ron.
After seeing Terry's exhaust Step By Step,I decided to do the exhausts first.
This might not be an exact copy,but more like a variation.
To give the exhaust some structure,I first used the "melting glue method".
Brush some model glue on the exhaust and stipple with a piece of sand paper or a stiff haired brush on the glue
layer.
After painting the exhaust in a rusty looking acrylic color (I used Vallejo for this) give the exhaust several
layers of hair spray and let dry.Then I brush painted Tamiya's XF-60 Dark Yellow over it,you don't have to cover the entire part with paint.
I used Tamiya's ordinary thinner and a stiff brush to remove some of the Dark Yellow,to show the rusty colored
Vallejo paint beneath it.
I used three brown color pigments,rusty colors,and a grey one to alter the tone.
Use the pigments with subtle dry brushing,if you feel like that you have aplied too much,you can use a kitchen sponge with a bit of Dark Yellow paint on it and push it against the surface...less is more.
If done subtle,the pigments will bleed through the Dark Yellow paint.
For the bare shiny metal I used my trusty Koh-I-Noor graphite pencil (ofcourse you can also use metal color pigments)
Oh,I'm not using a pigment fixer,the mat paint surface is great for using genuine pigments without the use of any fixer.(it would be different if the surface was gloss coated)
More to come later,thanks for dropping by!
Greetings,Ron.
Nailed it!
