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3D Printing and Blender files

You can look at photos all day long but you won't get a sense of how big this printer is until you see it in person. My previous printer was the Phrozen Mega 8K. The plate and vat on this are at least triple the size.
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I am glad I ordered several bottles of resin. I am looking forward to printing my first model. It may take some study before that happens!
 
I have another part created. The fan from the Scout kit is really thick, so I thought I'd give making a new fan a go. I haven't printed it yet...
It is made in blender. The final result is not as smooth as I'd like, but at a microscopic level print it should look OK.
International Scout Fan .jpg
 
Ok, for @Rhino 's personal viewing pleasure, I am attempting to make the AMC 345cc V8 engine. So far so good. I don't have the intake manifold done or the carb, but what I have I am relatively pleased with. The block, really, is a series of guesses, since I can't find definitive images and specs. I "think" it will do, even for people who know engines. The timing chain cover and water pump were by far the most difficult to figure out how they meshed without interfering with each other. The distributor hole is also a pretty good guess. Everything pins together so each piece orients correctly (in theory). I have a HORRIBLE cold and feel like warmed over death so this is what I am doing as I sit alone keeping away from people! Nothing has been test printed except the fuel filter which worked great. I have made the distributor with holes for wires, because if anyone is going to the trouble of building something like this, they are the kind of builder who puts wires on their engines and there is no need for them to have to drill out the holes. Likewise with vacuum lines, water hoses, and whatnot.

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"Madness and Brilliance. It's remarkable how often those two traits coincide." Captain Jack Sparrow
My intention was not to rent space in your head. That being said, Bravo, Cap! I applaud the use of the brawny, gas-guzzing 345 over the wimpy 304! :yipee:
 
"Madness and Brilliance. It's remarkable how often those two traits coincide." Captain Jack Sparrow
My intention was not to rent space in your head. That being said, Bravo, Cap! I applaud the use of the brawny, gas-guzzing 345 over the wimpy 304! :yipee:
Can't beat 8MPG! Oh wait....yes you can LOL
 
Well, so far so good. I had to make some tweaks and need to make a few more. This is the AMC 345 V8 engine for the Scout II. All pieces designed in Blender 4.0 and printed by me using the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra, Siraya Tech ABS like resin gray at 25mu. It took an entire day to calibrate the machine to the smaller layer height, but I got more detail. The separate parts for what you see here are:
Engine block
Oil pan
Left and right cylinder heads
Left and right valve cover
Timing chain cover
Water pump and top pulley (all 1 piece)
Intake manifold
Top radiator coolant exchange
Not painted is the harmonic balancer. Notice the timing marks on the timing chain cover!
The water pipes are 18ga copper wire and .025" solder wire.
The paint is 3 parts Tamiya X7 Red and 2 parts X6 Orange to make a Chevy red.
There was a lot of trimming and truing via scraping with an Xacto and filing with a mini file and grinding with a dremel so I need to tweak the exposure settings a bit more; I think it was over exposed which made the alignment splines too big. I will try to resize the male parts a little smaller. It may just be the tiny size and not much I can do about it. I try to have the supports small enough that the piece isn't mangled when they are removed but large enough that the print doesn't fail. It is tricky!
The pieces were cured with the supports still attached and carefully removed after hardening. That seemed to work better.
Transmission and transfer case shown just because.
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That's cool, I'd say the A frame cross member would not cut into the two outer beams, it would be welded or have some sort of flange attachment. Looks like the two frame members are cut and the cross member holds them together.

Get some D rings in there for tiedown points. You gotta be able to snap that tie down strap and say "That ain't goin' no where".
 
That's cool, I'd say the A frame cross member would not cut into the two outer beams, it would be welded or have some sort of flange attachment. Looks like the two frame members are cut and the cross member holds them together.

Get some D rings in there for tiedown points. You gotta be able to snap that tie down strap and say "That ain't goin' no where".
I think the reflector spots on the outside of the outer beam make the crossmember look cut in. I can get rid of those. Would it be welded on top and not on the inside? Also, where to the D rings go? I am thinking they would go in recessed openings in the deck?
 
I think the reflector spots on the outside of the outer beam make the crossmember look cut in. I can get rid of those. Would it be welded on top and not on the inside? Also, where to the D rings go? I am thinking they would go in recessed openings in the deck?
That'll be a fancy trailer if they were recessed. My little 8x6 trailer from Tractor Supply has none but I added some on the outside side rails. I've seen folks put them on the top of the rails, on the deck itself. I wouldn't like it on the decking, I'd think they would need to be on something more structurally sound.
The crossmember would probably be welded I would think.
 
That'll be a fancy trailer if they were recessed. My little 8x6 trailer from Tractor Supply has none but I added some on the outside side rails. I've seen folks put them on the top of the rails, on the deck itself. I wouldn't like it on the decking, I'd think they would need to be on something more structurally sound.
The crossmember would probably be welded I would think.
I took the reflector spaces out so the cross bar is just on the inside of the rails. Would it be on top of the outer rails instead of inside?
 
The cross members and side rails would also probably be channel steel, or I beam style, not solid rectangular cross section bars. (welded together of course) The cross members would not have the holes in them that you have. If you are going for accuracy, the springs would not go into blocks on the underside. The front attachment would be between two supports so it could pivot a little, the rear would have a set of levers that would pivot and allow the spring to lengthen and shorten as it flexed. I can sketch it later if you need.
 
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