Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Gee, why don't you just chuck up some 1/8th ish diameter sprue in your dremel and turn it out. As it doesn't have the shatterproof reinforcements, it is smooth. Easy Peasy.
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Wreaking Havoc 1: A-20B 41-3266(?) Outhouse Mouse with a Sharkmouth
- Thread starter Sharkmouth
- Start date
Who said I am not doing that? The trick is getting them identical as they lie next to each other and the space they go to has to be fixed as it won't allow for the cylinders placement. You'll see soon enough.
Also, I just noted that the serial number range in the TM illustration reveals which A-20B had the rear firing nacelle guns: 41-2671 to 41-3069! I could write a book with all this stuff I am turning up!
Holy Moly where did I find the dimensions on the oxygen tank? I sent a message to @jknaus with bad information. Mixing the carry tank for an ambulance to the one needed in a bomber! The dimensions should be approximately 20" length with 12 inches diameter gauging proportions from this photograph. So, I am still working a base to support the gunner's compartment after I cut it apart to fit these cylinders, with their piping, in the correct places.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I actually have an oxy tank from an aircraft up in my attic.
I just went up there, dug it out and here are some photos.
It measures 23 inches long or 24 if you include the fitting that sticks out on the ends. The tanks is pretty close to 12 inches in diameter if you don't include the strapping around it. I got this years ago and used it for an air tank for many years. When Saúl said it was only 20 inches long, that didn't sound quite right so I went up and checked against the real thing.
I just went up there, dug it out and here are some photos.
It measures 23 inches long or 24 if you include the fitting that sticks out on the ends. The tanks is pretty close to 12 inches in diameter if you don't include the strapping around it. I got this years ago and used it for an air tank for many years. When Saúl said it was only 20 inches long, that didn't sound quite right so I went up and checked against the real thing.
Paul, yours seems to be the Type G-1 which is larger. I am having Type F-1 owners look into it as guessing proportions from photographs, is failing me:
Type F-1 seems to have the same proportions but smaller. The photo origin of this one is an eBay seller claiming it to be a Type F-1 but the dimensions are identical to the Type G-1 and stated as 24x12x12:
So, I won't trust anything unless I see the stencilling revealing the type such as these with a 4x3, length to diameter, proportions:
IF I can verify a diameter of 12 inches, the length would be about 16 so in 1/48th this would be .25x.33 inches.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Here is something I noticed from your photos, The F-1s only has 5 or 6 circumference straps where the G1 has a whole lot more, 7 to 8. Also the F-1 also "looks" shorter and stubbier.
When I took the last photo you posted and put it in my Canvas program and did some quick sizing and measuring, setting the width to 12 inches, the length with the end fittings (not the pipe plugs) comes to about 21 inches. This would mean that the base of the fittings would probably measure at about 20 inches.
When I took the last photo you posted and put it in my Canvas program and did some quick sizing and measuring, setting the width to 12 inches, the length with the end fittings (not the pipe plugs) comes to about 21 inches. This would mean that the base of the fittings would probably measure at about 20 inches.
Putting the last photograph, of the Type F-1, into a graphics program is how I deduced the 4x3 (length by diameter) ratio. The Type G-1 seems to have a 5x3 ratio.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
OMG! We have become so
it's no wonder we take so long.
A lifetime ago, I used to 'scratch-build' masters for others. One of the reasons why I became accustomed to creating a project out of an idea instead of completing the subject. Then reviews took over, again it was reviewing the product and not always seeing it to the end as I usually didn't care for the markings included. I think you saw some loose parts in the Bronco Horsa where I tested fit and engineering but didn't glue or paint as that is all up to the individual. I did test the parts for plastic quality such as snipping a Bronco sprue tree to test flexibility (brittleness) and how it glued with various common cements. I did that with the Bronco Sd.Kfz. 6 for which TMD offered upgrades, so it spared the Horsa.
Anyway, I completed my cuts on the gunner's station. Not finding anything concrete, I may have to imageneer (Gizmology, according to the late Shep Paine) the mounts for the cylinders but am still awaiting their actual diameter.
New project, leaking water heater, has intervened but that will be sorted ASAP. The weekend is mercifully here. I know, I know...
You know, admitting the problem is half the battle.
A wrinkle... The Facebook Marketplace seller of this Type F-1 Oxygen Gas Cylinder responded with measurements taken with a tape.
"Saul, it measures 18 inches long and 31 inches in circumference. Thank you."
Circumference 31 inches divided by 3.14 = 9.89 inches but this was probably over the reinforcement straps so I went with 9.75 inches diameter which gave me 13 inches length. Now, to figure out the straight side between the domed ends...
Let's see...
"Saul, it measures 18 inches long and 31 inches in circumference. Thank you."
Circumference 31 inches divided by 3.14 = 9.89 inches but this was probably over the reinforcement straps so I went with 9.75 inches diameter which gave me 13 inches length. Now, to figure out the straight side between the domed ends...
Let's see...
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
With that info, and scaling from the F-1 photos I am coming up with 18 inches tip of fitting to tip of fitting and 10 inches width.
The information was taken using a tape measure and the fact she gave a circumference, instead of a diameter, means that she followed the contours. Without knowing the radius of the domed sections, I used the graphics program to provide a length as it would Shirley be shorter than the 18 inches stated.
Surely, I can't be serious about being this anal-retentive?
Why do I do this to myself when I could have simply looked to see if I had a technical manual on the equipment?
I do have the manual! Measurements are approximately 17.5" x 9.75":
My thanks to @Heavens Eagle for making me dig in and not simply guess as they would been too fat and/or too long, even though this photo did show the difference!
Paul, you were not far off in the end! Close-up of tape and F-1 from above photo:
So, in 1/48th scale, I need to chuck some 6mm rod. Let's see if I have some... Plastruct makes 1/4" ABS if needed.
I do have the manual! Measurements are approximately 17.5" x 9.75":
My thanks to @Heavens Eagle for making me dig in and not simply guess as they would been too fat and/or too long, even though this photo did show the difference!
Paul, you were not far off in the end! Close-up of tape and F-1 from above photo:
So, in 1/48th scale, I need to chuck some 6mm rod. Let's see if I have some... Plastruct makes 1/4" ABS if needed.
Last edited:
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Anal retentive?
OK temp hijack.
I had to do a watch repair this week. A Chronograph (watch with a stop watch well known brand) It started several weeks ago this part a bridge for the mainspring barrel was being placed in the watch and assembled, a threaded post just fell off. This happens with these designs. Not often but enough. Usually you just replace the whole part (which is usually about $200 cost). In this case I cannot obtain a new part easily. So, time to repair the one I have. I saw a repair done on another (different) part quite a while back that was quite well done so I got to thinking about it. The biggest problem is the really thin edge that is on one side. Cannot solder the part back on as it won't hold.
First thing I needed was a tap for the hole. Ordered that but the US postal service here in Memphis lost the package. Idiots. Not the first time.
So I designed a way to make a replacement that should hold up.
FYI, the diameter of the post is 0.98 mm (that is 0.038 inches) The screw that goes in the hole is 0.67 mm.
The part
The replacement with the original setting beside it.
The underside
The dimensions on the part (in metric)
I finally got a second shipment for the tooling (taps) I needed this week and finished the repair on this part yesterday. All machining like this is done by hand on a watchmaker lathe. By that it is done similar to what you see when people are doing wood lathe work. So you cut the material and measure, then remove more material, then measure again. It took about an hour and a half to drill, tap, and then machine the replacement part. Believe it or not, all the hobby stuff I do with that lathe helps a lot as everything is organized and my skills are kept honed.
I apologize for the slight detour Saúl. Hope you folks find this interesting since we are talking about lathe work and turning out parts.
OK temp hijack.
I had to do a watch repair this week. A Chronograph (watch with a stop watch well known brand) It started several weeks ago this part a bridge for the mainspring barrel was being placed in the watch and assembled, a threaded post just fell off. This happens with these designs. Not often but enough. Usually you just replace the whole part (which is usually about $200 cost). In this case I cannot obtain a new part easily. So, time to repair the one I have. I saw a repair done on another (different) part quite a while back that was quite well done so I got to thinking about it. The biggest problem is the really thin edge that is on one side. Cannot solder the part back on as it won't hold.
First thing I needed was a tap for the hole. Ordered that but the US postal service here in Memphis lost the package. Idiots. Not the first time.
So I designed a way to make a replacement that should hold up.
FYI, the diameter of the post is 0.98 mm (that is 0.038 inches) The screw that goes in the hole is 0.67 mm.
The part
The replacement with the original setting beside it.
The underside
The dimensions on the part (in metric)
I finally got a second shipment for the tooling (taps) I needed this week and finished the repair on this part yesterday. All machining like this is done by hand on a watchmaker lathe. By that it is done similar to what you see when people are doing wood lathe work. So you cut the material and measure, then remove more material, then measure again. It took about an hour and a half to drill, tap, and then machine the replacement part. Believe it or not, all the hobby stuff I do with that lathe helps a lot as everything is organized and my skills are kept honed.
I apologize for the slight detour Saúl. Hope you folks find this interesting since we are talking about lathe work and turning out parts.
Don't apologize! I loved it! I am waiting on my water heater replacement so I can go into my garage and pullout my UniMat lathe to make my 0.20" cylinders from 0.25" (1/4 inch) Plastruct thick walled tube. Once successful in creating a tube with an outside diameter of 0.2" for a length of about 1.5 inches, I can then cut it into three 0.5" (1/2 inch) sections. Then, slide each of them over the correct rod that fits the inner diameter, cement, and let them cure. After that, I will shape the domed ends and keep a final length of 0.36" to finish the three Type F-1 cylinders.
Last night, I cut one of the gunner's compartment parts to allow the 0.4" clearance for the Type F-1 Oxygen Gas Cylinder and would start detailing it but my laundry room, where my water heater closet is located, is also my 'warm weather' workbench. We had snow overnight!
I may update this post but it will only show a cut up part and not the detailing to be done nore the cradles needed to place the cylinders properly. If I update this post, itis simply to remove this emoticon with a photo or two.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I had to replace my water heater last year. It had water shutoffs so I did that and shut the gas off as well. Went and bought a new water heater. Then paid a contractor to come and replace it. I also drained the tank before they arrived so all they had to do was shut off the water to the house, cut and splice the lines and fill it up and test it. The tank ran a bit over $500 and I think the labor was $160. Would have been more if I had not already drained the tank as that would have added another hour or so to the labor time.
You might check locally and see if there is a plastics supplier. I have bought 1/8th, 3/16th, 1/4, and larger clear acrylic rod for a lot less than the cost of plastruct supplies. Have been using them for a long time and have done all kinds of projects. Also the acrylic is usually less expensive in bulk.
You might check locally and see if there is a plastics supplier. I have bought 1/8th, 3/16th, 1/4, and larger clear acrylic rod for a lot less than the cost of plastruct supplies. Have been using them for a long time and have done all kinds of projects. Also the acrylic is usually less expensive in bulk.
Home Depot did the swap with the addition of a water expansion tank (required by code after my last water heater was installed) and the heater was already drained with the water cut off and the pilot light off. I didn't touch the gas shutoff. I did get a fancy $900 water heater and the total was a whopping $2299 put on my Home Depot card since it had 12 months zero percent interest financing. ALL contractors wanted $1100+ to simple replace with delivering the new one. I picked my item at Home Depot and the rest was done. Broke but have hot water!
Indeed, I used to have a GREAT plastics company, Canal Plastics, in NYC where artists bought everything acrylic and I bought MEK in the dark formula bottles. They no longer sell MEK.
Rummaging through my scratch-building supplies in the garage workshop I found a dark plastic tube which was smaller than the 0.25" white Plastruct.
Aside from the Water Heater, I had to shovel snow from the driveway and also bottled my Sharkbite Green Pepper Sauce. It is a mid-spiciness, for me, blend of Jalapeños, Habaneros, Cayenne, and Thai peppers. Onion was added to sweeten it a bit with minimal salt and plenty of vinegar, all being organic ingredients. Shark's Kiss is my mild and Shark Attack my super hot pepper sauces.
The promised photo, more work was done since it was taken...
Indeed, I used to have a GREAT plastics company, Canal Plastics, in NYC where artists bought everything acrylic and I bought MEK in the dark formula bottles. They no longer sell MEK.
Rummaging through my scratch-building supplies in the garage workshop I found a dark plastic tube which was smaller than the 0.25" white Plastruct.
Aside from the Water Heater, I had to shovel snow from the driveway and also bottled my Sharkbite Green Pepper Sauce. It is a mid-spiciness, for me, blend of Jalapeños, Habaneros, Cayenne, and Thai peppers. Onion was added to sweeten it a bit with minimal salt and plenty of vinegar, all being organic ingredients. Shark's Kiss is my mild and Shark Attack my super hot pepper sauces.
The promised photo, more work was done since it was taken...
centaur567
Well-known member
I don't get to hung up on the details. SWAGing works for me. Nice read though. Gary S.
Exactly, Gary! We all enjoy our hobby our own way. Some want to add as much detail as their abilities allow while others simply want to add the kit to their collection as quickly as possible. There is no right or wrong as long as one enjoys themselves!
