what colour is this ?

[paddy]

Any idea what this colour is on the engine cases. I come across it a lot on bikes and cars, it looks like a king of graphite maybe ?? Often see it on raw dark alloy castings like gearboxes.

 

[moon puppy]

This is my weakness...no clue.

 

[Sharkmouth]

You stated a color that seems to match... Graphite. My solitary opinion, of course!

 

[Heavens Eagle]

Problem is colors are different to different people. To me it looks like Alclad Steel, Stainless Steel, or maybe an Iron color. But then again, I am the guy on the right in this pic.

 

[Greg Kimsey]

Maybe this

 

[paddy]

Not the fuel tank greg, the engine cases

 

[centaur567]

Looks like a dark gray metallic to me. Gary S.

 

[paddy]

I ended up with 2 parts satin black 1 part metallic black and 4 parts white....its not really what i was looking for but it will do the job on this bike

side case just balanced in place

 

[paddy]

Petrol tank is a nightmare, 2 parts .......might not be from the same kit they are that far apart

 

[moon puppy]

That seam is child's play for you Paddy.

Color looks good to me.

 

[paddy]

Unfortunately i cant do filler or blending, last time i tried the think i filled the gap 4 times and each time it just contracted as it dried . I can never get the stuff to key so as soon as i sand it, chunks fall out

 

[Heavens Eagle]

You might try a 2 part auto filler then use a thin auto filler paste to finish up. I don't know what filler you are using, but if that is a metal tank, or even a plastic tank, if the filler isn't bonding and falling out in chunks you need to find a different filler.

 

[RichB]

You could try the super glue (thin type, not the gel) and baking soda trick to fill it. Just fill the gap with the glue, you may have to do short sections so the glue doesn't cure around the edges. Sprinkle the area liberally with baking soda (bicarbonate of soda on your side of the pond). Don't be tempted to press it down with your finger, let the chemical reaction happen. Let it cure for 20-30 seconds, brush off the excess and there will be a rough surface that should be hard enough to begin sanding with your favourite files and grits of sandpapers and a final buff with a cotton cloth. If there are any gaps or depressions repeat the glue and baking soda steps as required.

Cheers,
RichB

 

[Sharkmouth]

As @RichB stated but I will add that you can use a putty (silly putty, mounting putty, tack putty) to create a dam and keep the liquid CA on the horizontal plane as you work in sections, I would glue strip or wire in there to save on the CA. Another, expensive as you know, alternative is the UV resin.

 

[paddy]

I still think the plug leads look over size but i have measured them at .8mm so that makes a true life size 7.2mm which is probably on the smaller size for rubber leads from the 1950's. I think its just that the engine is very small being only 110cc a pot and a 2 stroke.

The original tanks were hand beaten, roughly to a shape



You get the idea. I have seen people build this model and just add a weld line to the join and others try and beat the tank up even more however i will try and fill it first and bashing it up is always a plan B

 

[moon puppy]

What's your putty?

 

[paddy]

AK grey ? I tried rubbing it back today as it had overnight to dry and i think my problem is i do it wet and it turns the dry putty back to wet putty, i might try a filler primer at this stage as its easy to strip it back and start again. I thing the beaten up tank might be even harder to replicate than getting this one filled