Tiny pinholes-

[chukw]

Ugh! My Ju388 is covered with tiny (i mean tiny) pinholes. I've tried superglue, white glue, white-out- even thinned spackle with very uneven results. The worst thing is that the more I sand, the more bubbles are revealed. What's your method for dealing with this pesky resin problem- I'd appreciate some help!

Cheers!
chuk

 

[moon puppy]

I would try to coat it with one of the Mr. Surfacer or AlcladII Microfiller primers and try to be careful not to sand down to the resin.

Or just build up with Mr. Surfacer 1200?

I don't have much experience with resin Chuck, but that's what I would attempt.

 

[chukw]

Alclad microfiller primers? I'll have to check those out- thanks! I'm worried that I migh have to enlarge these little b@stards with a needle to get them big enough to let filler in. They stand out like crazy against the Mr Surfacer 1200I've sprayed on, but it's the very devil to get any liquid into them!

Thanks, Moon!

 

[Sharkmouth]

The problem is sanding, so you should just smooth away. When I dealt with Eastern European swiss cheese resin, I used Squadron White or Green Putty thinned with liquid glue (back then it was Testors)

This was brushed on a section at a time and wiped off with a clean lint free rag moistened with liquid cement. Let cure and repeat.

This always worked but was super tedious and poisonous to breathe.

Regards,

 

[chukw]

Thanks, Saul- that sounds- like fun! :stinker

Right now I'm applying thin CA with a needle and sanding with the ol' toothbrush sander. Getting some results- but yea, brother- it is tedious!

 

[moon puppy]

Saul wouldn't thinned Squadron putty be the same as Mr. Surfacer 500 or 1000?

 

[Sharkmouth]

More like Mr. Dissolved Putty... also note I mentioned I did this a while ago in an era where anything from the Eastern Block was reminiscent of Swiss Cheese.

Regards,

 

[moon puppy]

My money is on the Mr. Surfacer Chuck. I think the 1000 and 1200 grits are fine enough to get in those holes and the self leveling properties would leave you with a smooth surface.

 

[jknaus]

I dont know how well it would work, but what about future? Brush on let dry and then a surfacer and light sanding? I would think like water it will fill the pinholes and then dry hard. Just a thought.

James

 

[chukw]

Well- I'll give that a shot and let you know. The downside is waiting for the stuff to dry, but I'm ready for a break anyway. :gogo

 

[chukw]

Okay- here's teh latest tally- Mr S 1200- mixed results. I got sick of pinholes, busted out the Miliput to build up some serious steps along the wing/engine cowl lines and it hit me: thinned Miliput. I troweled it on with the point of an Xacto and wiped it away with a damp paper towel- success! I filled a bunch of scribing errors that popped up after priming- I'm feeling confident about this one. No poisonous vapors, either! Film at eleven. :drinks

 

[moon puppy]

What do you thin Miliput with?

 

[chukw]

Oxygen DiHydride! Right outta da tap!

 

[AndyFettes]

Im with Saul I use Squadron Green Putty thinned with Tamiay extra thin cement

I`m prepping a figure I got last week and worked good on the tiny bubbles it had

 

[Kreighshoer]

i would have suggested the same method as saúl did! mr green or mr white, diluted with extra thin glue but dissolved milliput without poisonous vapors is much better!

you'll overcome the pinhole hell chuk!

 

[Jeeves]

Great solution Chuk!! Just remember though, that stuff can be toxic if ingested in great quantities in it's liquid form into the lungs!! :geek

So be careful!

 

[mlp]

ok - I'm probably outside the norm again here - I'm using wax

I once bought a so called waxing center look here: http://www.rai-ro.de/english/katalog/seite5e.htm and the complete catalog: http://www.rai-ro.de/english/main.htm - but there are other shops selling those tools. in the end it is like a soldering station which is able to have low temperatures of 120 to 160 Fahrenheit (see below)

And for the wax I'm using dental wax or better milling wax ( http://www.berg-dental.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=230 )

the wax is melting at about 40-60 degrees Celsius (round about 104 to 140 Fahrenheit) witch is below the melting point of resin but near to it, so it will bite into the resin and it will flow inside those tiny holes. Once cold and dry you easily can scratch off the wax with a blade or any other tool, then sand it smooth. For this sanding I'm using a sanding mat not sandpaper. It looks like the stuff on the rough side of household sponges. This sanding mat you get here at hardware stores or car paint stores too.

After that you have to deal with the silicone grease in the wax so you have to wipe it of with some silicone remover fluid you can buy here at hardware stores or car painting stores too.

Then just give it a base coat of i.e. Gunze Surfacer or alike

Well I'm using wax now for almost all seams, it's easy and quick

 

[moon puppy]

Wax? Learn something new, that's what makes this community great!

Reading more about that product, that's REALLY nice. I like the idea of it.

 

[Sharkmouth]

ok - I'm probably outside the norm again here - I'm using wax

Hey, I remember when I almost bought something so extremely similar from The Small Shop EU. Obviously, they were making it for them. They were using wax to attach PE.

Regards,

 

[moon puppy]

I like the idea, not as hot as solder, perhaps more forgiving.

Any sources for this stuff in the US?