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Tamiya's little RC166 GP motorcycle.

paddy

Well-known member
Tamiya's 1/12 1966 GP bike.
Dont be fooled by the 1/12 bit !! it was tiny in real life :)

_DSC0001.jpg


Tamiya motorcycle kits are a bit special, anyone who has built one produced in the last 10 years will know they are pretty well as good as a kit can be. They have had the precision and detail Tamiya are starting to produce on their 1/32 aircraft ( Spit, P51)for a few years now. I have built a few and they always leave me thinking, the kit was so good I didn’t really do it justice. There is also a secret under world of Tamiya bike builders, people who produce perfection that mere mortals can’t hope to match.
I have always had a passion for classic bikes, modern bikes leave me a little cold, so when I saw this kit was being released it caught my eye straight away.
Honda was formed in 1954, one of its first aims was to compete in the “Isle of Man TT race” a classic street circuit race round the Isle of Man in the Irish sea between England and Ireland. At the time the race was THE race to win, it had been going since 1904 and involved 3-4 laps of a 45mile coarse. Through streets and country side and even over the islands mountain with all the problems that could bring…like fog and rain. Honda set its self a target to enter the 1959 race and be competative, this meant they needed to produce a world class engine from scratch and they set themselves a target of 100bhp per 1000cc or equivalent for their 125cc racer. By the time they reached this target the competition was already aiming for 150bhp /1000cc but never the less then entered the race and came 6th. This was at a time when most peoples only experience of the Japanese’s was war time memories. Suddenly the racing world was confronted with these ultra-efficient, ultra- polite and 100% dedicated little people that might as well have come from outer space in 1959. These were not mechanics, they were world class engineers. The fact that the British saw them as a bit of a joke and didn’t take them seriously was the start of the downfall of the great British motorcycle manufacturing industry. As a direct result of this race the writing was on the wall for great marques like Norton, Triumph ,AJS , and Vincent.
Honda learnt from their 6th place and in 1961 they returned taking the top 5 places in the 125cc and 250cc races …………..
Honda’s main rivals now were fellow Japanese factories of Yamaha and Suzuki and the competition was great over the next 3-4 years as all manufacturers fought it out on the world GP series. Honda had a mediocre few years until in 1965 they took on world champion rider, the Brit, Mike Hailwood. With his immense experience Honda rolled out a 250cc 6 cylinder 4 stroke machine with an engine that had proved troublesome and difficult to race. Mike got to work learning how to race a 6 cylinder engine with 6 x 41cc pistons revving to 17500 rpm !! and producing nearly 60bhp from just 250cc, an output of 240bhp/1000cc no less, more than double their target of 4 years earlier.!!
The rest is History , Mike became known as “Mike the Bike” and in 1965 the little 250cc Honda won every race and class it entered and gave Honda its first ever manufacturer/rider championship.
On the face of it this little kit seems to be every bit as good as the other Tamiya kits but this kit comes with a twist. Rather than leave the aftermarket companies to do detail up kits Tamiya have pre-empt them and done them themselves. As well as the basic kit that has all you need to build a superb model they have added a wheel kit. Polished alloy rims with stainless steel spokes you need to build yourself. Front fork and clutch kit made of beautiful turned alloy parts. A drive chain kit made up of 100 separate working metal links that need to be assembled, each link made up of 6 parts and less than 1mm (0.040”) in size. To that they have added a rivet set for seat upholstery.
I am not a defeatist but I do tend to have ideas above my station with builds. I am inspired by people like chuk to take on better and better kits but the reality is 75% of what chuk produces was never in the box in the first place, he starts where the kit designer left off whereas this kit is really the sort of kit chuk would produce if he was a manufacturer I suspect. .The saving grace for me is if I get the aftermarket terribly wrong I have the original parts to fall back on …there you go see, I’m already looking at a back up plan…lol
Motorcycle kits are really several little sub kits that come together at the end to make a finished model. To that end you have to build the engine, the wheels, in this case the chain, the frame and forks and the bodywork separately. I am going to start with this chain as I need to get it out the way or it will nag at me over Xmas and New Year.
 
So what part of the kit is this ??

Honda2.jpg


Well its not really, this is the jig for the chain assembly and this is the PE strip

Honda1.jpg


The chain is basically laid out on the jig and assembled as a strip of side plates, then rollers, then side plates and then cut into move able links later. Notice the link sides are already spaced on the PE sheet and joined to the PE sheet, top and bottom so having linked all the side plates together you should be abler to cut the whole thing, top and bottom from the PE sheet and end up with the chain assembled .........does that make sense :)...?? no me neither ....lol
Watch this space ....
Sorry about my pictures, really struggling with light this time of year in the UK, if its cloudy it can be sort of Dusk all day and artificial light throw's up shadows.
 
I have an aftermarket chain set for a Tamiya Yamaha somewhere in the stash, looking forward to following this. (y)
 
The chain...

I’m not going into great detail on how the chain is made but I will point out what I did, what worked and what didn’t which after all is half the point of a WIP 

FIRST !!!!!!!!!!!! do all the following working in the box top. You get some spare pins and rollers but it’s not an endless supply !! and they are very small
chain6.jpg

chain7.jpg

Thank heavens for macro lenses :)

Having assembled the two “toothed” sides of the jig onto the base plate via their polly caps
chain1.jpg


you need to drop a roller on to each of the holes that is formed.
chain2.jpg


Unless you have strange alien digits you can’t pick the rollers up by hand because they are too small. I tried several ways including a sharpened matchstick and spearing them in their holes under a magnifying glass …..that didn’t work. Conventional tweezers sent then shooting of into space never to be seen again but I eventually found those reverse tweezers that are sprung shut rather than open griped them just enough to manoeuvre them into place. Having got the whole lot in place ( that took an age) the jig moved just enough for one of them to fall on its side in its hole !! At that point you have no choice but to tip the whole lot out and start again.


The jig is non-ridged plastic and is inevitably bowed so getting the base and two “toothed” sides to sit nicely means taping the three pieces together with masking tape…that stops the rollers falling over in the jig ………I found later.
Having got a roller in each hole you then lay on a PE strip of link side plates over the rollers and then a second, one hole out from the first, so you then have the chain make up of inner link , outer link, inner link , outer link and so on.
chain3.jpg


Then the really tricky part. You need to secure that lot together with a link pin through each link side plate and roller !!. Secure the PE side plate strips to the jig with a couple of bits of masking tape on the ends so they sit flat or take on the bow of the jig. Failure to do that means for every link pin you put in, two others ping out and into space……I found out later.
Each pin has to go through two side plates and then the roller so its essential you don’t move any of the links on the PE strip or nothing is going to line up. I can’t tell you how to fit these pins….its trial and error but you will need some sort of magnification and a tool of some sort to pick them up.
chain4.jpg


At this stage you secure the jig top plate which is the same as the base plate to the whole assembly and that holds all the parts in place. You can now breathe a sigh of relief…. but beware !!! you now need to turn the whole lot over and remove what was the base plate of the jig to reveal the other side of the chain, such that it is. Its now that all the rollers ping off the pins and come away with the base plate but don’t cry or kill anyone at this stage….. Its not to bad a job to drop them back on the pins……..I found out later.
chain12.jpg


You now need to lay another strip of PE links over the pins that are now sticking upward as you start to assemble the second side of the chain. This is straight forward just make sure each pin is through its corresponding hole in the PE side plate properly.
Chain11.jpg


The whole lot is then held in place by the final set of outer link plates which are in strips of three. They fit in the jig and are slid in sideways to clip on to the small grove in the link pins.
this picture shows a rear part of the jig that holds the three link section down and a front section that slides and pulls the three links which are horse shoe shape on to the link pins
chain10.jpg


And the three link section in place
chain9.jpg


...15 more three link sections to fit and then all the excess PE needs to be cut off to just leave the chain links linked together .........hopefully :)
Watch this space !
 
As someone looking in MP is this making sense ? its always difficult to put something across when the reader doesn't have the parts and instructions in front of them like me .
Cheers
P
 
It's very clear, I'm sure it would be a great resource for someone attempting this construction.
 
Well it might help people to know what they are getting into. Its not that bad but if you have impaired eyesight or limited manual dexterity it could be a problem. Its not a starter sort of assembly but it is very do-able. Not as bad as i thought it would be anyway :)
 
thats a nice little jig- wonder how much R&D Tamiya spent figuring this out? I have broken, shortened, lengthened bike chains before, basics are just basic- but this is verrrry attractive.
 
Krypto
Its not a cheap build with the extras, the wheel kit is another $75 and the forks are $25 and the kit itself is $65 + rivet set at $10........I bought it all for half that on ebay from Hong Kong when i still had a job :)

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/14113rc166/index.htm
 
So THAT'S how it's done! Deft work, Paddy- cheers! One of the best tools I've found for picking up teeny-tinies is a sharpened bamboo mini-skewer- just lick the tip to lift the part. Give your models a little bit of the ol' DNA to personalize the build! B)
 
OK here we go , last bit.

Once you have all the sections of three horse shoe links in place like this..
chain13.jpg


you can then set about cutting off the excess PE parts. I say cutting because the instructions show a scalpel being used but i tried a brand new No, 10 blade in mine and it takes too much pressure and it will buckle the side plates so i "worried " mine off by bending it through a right angle a couple of times and it falls off.
This what needs to be cut off leaving just the chain in the jig
chain14.jpg


Rather bizarrely for Tamiya the instructions now give up and move on to joining the ends of the chain together and yet you still have all the other side of the chain to do so i replaced the base plate of the jig, turned it over and removed the top plate, placed a strip of masking tape down the length of the chain just covering the links and "worried" the rest of the PE of that side as well.
Then remove the chain from te jig while hoping it doesn't fall to pieces and hey presto...4.5" of real working chain
chain15.jpg


and just to prove it does what it should :)
chain16.jpg


Now to insert the final links to join it up :)....A walk in the park is what you say across the pond i think :)
 
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