Tim A.
Well-known member
The ones on this Sherman are called T-80.
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Sherman in 1/16 scale.
- Thread starter Tim A.
- Start date
Tim A.
Well-known member
78 inches ought to do it
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Instead of doing paint on that brass barrel, use some blackening treatment on it. After soaking for a little while it builds up a flat black coating on the brass. I take it out rinse it off and then gently rub it with a paper towel. That removes the flat black and burnishes the brass to a color that looks more like worn gun bluing or browning with highlights. No paint needed and looks so much better.
If you can't find USCHI, the Jax 3.5oz Selenium Dioxide based blackening agent for brass is $10. Also, Ammo of MiG does make a PE Burnishing solution. NOTE: There is a separate solution for blackening white metal (or pewter) tracks from all the companies.
test it on some spare PE frets before chancing it on turned brass barrels. I've seen it used for silver, copper, and bronze but not brass. Each agent has different properties and that is why I specified to be careful to order the agent for brass and not the one for pewter (white metal as in tracks) if deciding products from Ammo of MiG or USCHI. It will be cool to know the results!
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I showed what the USCHI does. It works quite well and gives a fairly realistic looking color.
As Saúl stated, if you are using an unknown, test it on something first. Brass being an alloy with usually copper and zinc where bronze is copper and tin. Both bronze and brass may include small amounts of a range of other elements, including arsenic, lead, phosphorus, aluminum, manganese, and silicon. Brass can also have small amounts of tin.
Best to be sure before detonating an expensive brass barrel.
As Saúl stated, if you are using an unknown, test it on something first. Brass being an alloy with usually copper and zinc where bronze is copper and tin. Both bronze and brass may include small amounts of a range of other elements, including arsenic, lead, phosphorus, aluminum, manganese, and silicon. Brass can also have small amounts of tin.
Best to be sure before detonating an expensive brass barrel.
@Heavens Eagle and @Tim A., I still have a rather large bottle of Blacken-It as I bought a case from Gateway Hobbies in NYC over 25 years ago! Last bottle of six. I had bought a slew of FriulModellismo's (original name) tracks and was disappointed by the clam type connections. Later, the name was shortened, owner moved form Italy to Hungary, and the connection became drilled out holes with wires. Anyone remember this?
Note the spelling and country of origin:
Note the spelling and country of origin:
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I am good with the small bottle that I have. The plus part of that is that I "know" it works.
Thanks for the offer Saúl. Maybe Tim could use it?
Thanks for the offer Saúl. Maybe Tim could use it?
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
I got the AFV 50 cal and had a bent barrel twice - the replacement was bent also. I Posted this on the AFV forum on FB and complained that the 100% failure rate was disappointing for an $80 AUD gun. I would have been able to make a better decision if told 'up front' that the barrel will be bent. I was asking if the MG42 barrel would be bent and was told (by David Parker)that i wouldn't have to worry because they would not be selling me one.
I replied that I was justified to expect a warning notice before purchasing and that if you bought an armout kit or plane kit with a bent chassis/fuselage, you would go out of business at a 100% failure rate to meet expectations. I was attacked by all (for questioning a celebrity modeller) and the 'fan boys' told me to just heat the barrel as a fix but my point was at $80.00 for a a simple gun, I should not have to do anything. If it is an excepted issue, then why isn't the issue advertised or just sold with a BRASS Barrel - I ended up buying an Aber barrel (an extra $20.00 and haven't bought anything from them since (after dropping about $1500 with them prior to that).
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You see why I'm not on FB? Guess the customer service manager from Eduard went to AFV.
Tim A.
Well-known member
This meme sums it up when you wake up to a dozen comments on something you posted the night before...
I got beat up on an antique tractor forum for how dangerous and irresponsible it was for telling a guy to put his tractor in gear to keep it from rolling away I don't know what those people thought we did all those years with stick shift vehicles?
Thanks for the heads up. Untill the last few years I couldn't afford aftermarket offerings so, I'm just unfamiliar with the good, bad and ugly. It's a learning curve. Think I've figured out the right combinations for what I'm trying to do with the guns on this build. May not be perfect or "right", but if they look the part I'm happy. Treating these builds more like paintings I guess is what I'm doing?
I guess I would have taken a beating for telling folks I had to drive a f250 with no clutch for about a year. Starting in granny gear at a redlight with no clutch was a great learning experience.
Tim A.
Well-known member
Ah the good ol' days.
If you had a hit or miss starter and knew it, parking on a hill was standard procedure.
centaur567
Well-known member
Been there, done that. The clutch cable would often break on my Kawasaki 900 on the way home. No, I don't have it anymore. I sold it in the mid eighty's. Gary S.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I have a (now) vintage VW beetle that sat in storage for over 30 years. If I had set the hand brake on it, the brake shoes would have bonded with the drums and it would have been a royal assed bitch to get the drums off.
I will tell you how I know.
Back in the 80's I had a collection of OLD beetles. One was a 54 that I parked in the garage and set the hand brake. Several months later I went to move it, released the hand brake and IT DIDN'T MOVE! The shoes had bonded with the drums. I did get them broke loose but it was a huge fight and took a giant wheel puller.
I learned - THE HARD WAY!
When I parked the '77 I put it in gear, NO HAND BRAKE, and put a key in the ignition.
When I finally emptied out the storage a few years ago, I had to pull the front right wheel as it had some garbage in the drum. Went ahead and pulled the brake parts. Easy job. Key was in the lock so could steer it, easy peasy.
Parking it in gear is the proper thing for long term. Just have to remember to kick it out of gear before you start it.
I will tell you how I know.
Back in the 80's I had a collection of OLD beetles. One was a 54 that I parked in the garage and set the hand brake. Several months later I went to move it, released the hand brake and IT DIDN'T MOVE! The shoes had bonded with the drums. I did get them broke loose but it was a huge fight and took a giant wheel puller.
I learned - THE HARD WAY!
When I parked the '77 I put it in gear, NO HAND BRAKE, and put a key in the ignition.
When I finally emptied out the storage a few years ago, I had to pull the front right wheel as it had some garbage in the drum. Went ahead and pulled the brake parts. Easy job. Key was in the lock so could steer it, easy peasy.
Parking it in gear is the proper thing for long term. Just have to remember to kick it out of gear before you start it.
