• Modelers Alliance has updated the forum software on our website. We have migrated all post, content and user accounts but we could not migrate the passwords.
    This requires that you manually reset your password.
    Please click here, http://modelersalliance.org/forums/login to go to logon page and use the "Forgot your Password" option.

Revell '65 Mustang Fastback

Rhino said:
I've done quite few model favors for club members. Largely these seem to go un or underappreciated.
Click to expand...
THAT, I do not understand! Hell, I didn't mention the favors as I know how you feel about the 'master' being a reworked kit part and I respect that. You saw that I not only loved by Cap-O-Matic (sorry if I get the name wrong) are not only utilized almost daily, I even personalized them!
 
So, starting on the engine while things dry. I cut off the oil filter and filled the hile with 3mm syrene tube.
1600.jpg


The printed oil filter is more crisp
1603.jpg


These are the parts I made. The fuel pump is not included as a kit part.
1604.jpg
 
Back then, to me anyway, the Ford's were so much easier to work on than Chevys. I could could just reach over the hood to change the oil filter because it was located at the front of the engine. Changing a starter on a Chevy 283 was a nightmare. So is that a small block 289? Gary S.
 
centaur567 said:
Back then, to me anyway, the Ford's were so much easier to work on than Chevys. I could could just reach over the hood to change the oil filter because it was located at the front of the engine. Changing a starter on a Chevy 283 was a nightmare. So is that a small block 289? Gary S.
Click to expand...
Yessir, 289. My favorite!
 
Ok, I got the door hinges on. I "thing" I have then in the right place but will know more when I try to fit the doors.
1605.jpg


Next up in my random order of assembly is the make the oil filler tube and cap. I fit a 3mm styrene rod in my Dremel tool and using a small chisel I shaped it into a cap. I had to whittle the rod down to 1.5mm to fit the hole I drilled in the valve cover.
1784.jpg
1785.jpg
1786.jpg


It fits and looks good. The valve cover will be gold. The cap in my reference is black so I need to choose between that or chrome. I am leaning chrome to contrast with the black engine body.
 
Little more progress. The coolant hoses were molded but unusable on the waterpump so I cut them off and drilled with a 1mm bit. I used 1mm brass tube and a matching .5mm rod to make something I can use.
1788.jpg



Nest up in random order I wanted to make the drain plug on the oil pan more correcter so I cut off the incorrect plug then cemented a 1mm thick square piece of styrene card. Once dry I shaped it with a chisel.
1791.jpg



I have a new product. Tiny hex bolts in various sizes. I used the .85mm bolt. I won't glue it in unti after painting it chrome. Also, I want to work on the piece I added a little more.
1790.jpg


Thanks for looking in!
 
@Greg Kimsey , @Sharkmouth

Something I found while working on the current howitzer build is that the various super small bolt and nut sets with the 1.0mm and smaller don't stay in stock long. I was able to get the larger sets fairly easy. Just a couple three weeks ago I found the Meng Small set available at Sprue Bros or Squadron. I bought 3 sets and have already used the small nuts on one side of one.
 
Greg Kimsey said:
Ok, I got the door hinges on. I "thing" I have then in the right place but will know more when I try to fit the doors.View attachment 195571

Next up in my random order of assembly is the make the oil filler tube and cap. I fit a 3mm styrene rod in my Dremel tool and using a small chisel I shaped it into a cap. I had to whittle the rod down to 1.5mm to fit the hole I drilled in the valve cover.View attachment 195572View attachment 195573View attachment 195574

It fits and looks good. The valve cover will be gold. The cap in my reference is black so I need to choose between that or chrome. I am leaning chrome to contrast with the black engine body.
Click to expand...
Funny, I seem to remember that Ford engines were painted blue. Gary S.
 
Ok, progress for today. Replacing the molded trans linkage (now removed) with metal. Using 1.5x.4mm brass strip (really wish I could get nickel!) I made tiny linkage bars. I used 1mmOD x .5mmID tube drilled out to .6mm to make spacers. The bolt is 1mm brass hex bolt. The linkage will be .5mm brass rod, but that is for later; my hands are cramping (and I have an aquarium to help break down). I will show a picture of what I am trying to do.
1803.jpg

1805.jpg

1804.jpg
 
Last edited:
Ok, this was easily one of the most frustrating thing I have ever attempted. Not a joke or exaggeration. I have spent a lot of time on the floor with my flashlight. There were 45 bolt heads in 1mm and I needed 4 total. I have 32 left now.
I took this photo after my first fitting. I ended up replacing the tiny section of brass rod. I redrilled the holes in the transmission to 1mm and ran the rod completely through to the other side to make the situation more secure. I had to redrill the .5mm holes in the rod out numerous times. The drill bit was in my dremel and when I dropped the flexishaft it drilled into my thigh a little LOL. No serious harm done.
You can see the unused brackets in the background. I had the genius idea if using PE edging since it is thinner. I got 2 holes drilled. Each hole took 5 minutes and the drill bit was unusable afterward so I swicked back to brass and a new bit.
1817.jpg


So here is the final answer some 5 hours later. It is not 100% accurate by any stretch but it is done and I like it. They DO move. Only the bolt shaft is glued. The bars took a lot of trial and error; mostly error. I finally labded on this relatively close confuguration.
1818.jpg


Word to the wise; superglue debonder will also melt your cutting mat!
1819.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Enjoyable reading for a smile
Replies
6
Views
2K
Heavens Eagle
Heavens Eagle
Back
Top