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Revell '65 Mustang Fastback

Rhino said:
I've done quite few model favors for club members. Largely these seem to go un or underappreciated.
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THAT, I do not understand! Hell, I didn't mention the favors as I know how you feel about the 'master' being a reworked kit part and I respect that. You saw that I not only loved by Cap-O-Matic (sorry if I get the name wrong) are not only utilized almost daily, I even personalized them!
 
So, starting on the engine while things dry. I cut off the oil filter and filled the hile with 3mm syrene tube.
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The printed oil filter is more crisp
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These are the parts I made. The fuel pump is not included as a kit part.
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Back then, to me anyway, the Ford's were so much easier to work on than Chevys. I could could just reach over the hood to change the oil filter because it was located at the front of the engine. Changing a starter on a Chevy 283 was a nightmare. So is that a small block 289? Gary S.
 
centaur567 said:
Back then, to me anyway, the Ford's were so much easier to work on than Chevys. I could could just reach over the hood to change the oil filter because it was located at the front of the engine. Changing a starter on a Chevy 283 was a nightmare. So is that a small block 289? Gary S.
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Yessir, 289. My favorite!
 
Ok, I got the door hinges on. I "thing" I have then in the right place but will know more when I try to fit the doors.
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Next up in my random order of assembly is the make the oil filler tube and cap. I fit a 3mm styrene rod in my Dremel tool and using a small chisel I shaped it into a cap. I had to whittle the rod down to 1.5mm to fit the hole I drilled in the valve cover.
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It fits and looks good. The valve cover will be gold. The cap in my reference is black so I need to choose between that or chrome. I am leaning chrome to contrast with the black engine body.
 
Little more progress. The coolant hoses were molded but unusable on the waterpump so I cut them off and drilled with a 1mm bit. I used 1mm brass tube and a matching .5mm rod to make something I can use.
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Nest up in random order I wanted to make the drain plug on the oil pan more correcter so I cut off the incorrect plug then cemented a 1mm thick square piece of styrene card. Once dry I shaped it with a chisel.
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I have a new product. Tiny hex bolts in various sizes. I used the .85mm bolt. I won't glue it in unti after painting it chrome. Also, I want to work on the piece I added a little more.
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Thanks for looking in!
 
@Greg Kimsey , @Sharkmouth

Something I found while working on the current howitzer build is that the various super small bolt and nut sets with the 1.0mm and smaller don't stay in stock long. I was able to get the larger sets fairly easy. Just a couple three weeks ago I found the Meng Small set available at Sprue Bros or Squadron. I bought 3 sets and have already used the small nuts on one side of one.
 
Greg Kimsey said:
Ok, I got the door hinges on. I "thing" I have then in the right place but will know more when I try to fit the doors.View attachment 195571

Next up in my random order of assembly is the make the oil filler tube and cap. I fit a 3mm styrene rod in my Dremel tool and using a small chisel I shaped it into a cap. I had to whittle the rod down to 1.5mm to fit the hole I drilled in the valve cover.View attachment 195572View attachment 195573View attachment 195574

It fits and looks good. The valve cover will be gold. The cap in my reference is black so I need to choose between that or chrome. I am leaning chrome to contrast with the black engine body.
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Funny, I seem to remember that Ford engines were painted blue. Gary S.
 
Ok, progress for today. Replacing the molded trans linkage (now removed) with metal. Using 1.5x.4mm brass strip (really wish I could get nickel!) I made tiny linkage bars. I used 1mmOD x .5mmID tube drilled out to .6mm to make spacers. The bolt is 1mm brass hex bolt. The linkage will be .5mm brass rod, but that is for later; my hands are cramping (and I have an aquarium to help break down). I will show a picture of what I am trying to do.
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