Phrozen Mega 8K S printer

You can look at photos all day long but you won't get a sense of how big this printer is until you see it in person. My previous printer was the Phrozen Mega 8K. The plate and vat on this are at least triple the size.

I am glad I ordered several bottles of resin. I am looking forward to printing my first model. It may take some study before that happens!

 

[moon puppy]

I feel your pain.
Last week the LCD screen on the LPP proportioner took a dump and all the magic smoke came out. The files for the pressure vessel were shaky so I upgraded to the 2.0 version from Smooth-On. The re-boot took HOURS! Then as if that wasn't enough, all the pressure calibration spec's were metric. Evidently I downloaded the UK/Canada software.
The USB's are unusually silly bastiges.
Now I gotta do math and everything!
OMAFA!!

Funny, we were having to deal with Metric IP addresses this weekend, the ones in Canada eh? @jknaus

 

[Greg Kimsey]

Master Cylinder: It's getting easier to make these! Thank goodness LOL

 

[Greg Kimsey]

PS: the parts came for my printer and I have them installed, but don't have any more resin to test print. But step one is done!

 

[Rhino]

"You may fire when ready, Mr. Gridley."
Git-r-done!!

 

[jknaus]

Just a thought for you. I would suggest making a small box and a UV LED circuit with maybe 6 or so inches of wire between the box and LED. That way you can cure the insides of you prints if they are hollow. It will prevent them exploding or cracking later on. I printed my box in PLA, but resin is fine. You just need 3x 1.5 VDC batteries, UV LED, wire, 220Ohm resister and a switch. Here is an easy circuit.

Ultraviolent (UV) LED Circuit

In this project, we go over how to build a UV LED circuit so that you can turn on a UV LED to do things such as detect counterfeit money bills.

www.learningaboutelectronics.com

My boxis put away somewhere safe, just not sure where. Here is another not very good article which shows what I am trying to say, but he didnt make a box to hold the electronics.

Build A Resin Cure Light: Cure The Inside Of Your Models | 3D Print Beginner

In this guide, I will show you how to build a simple resin cure light for the inside of your resin models.

3dprintbeginner.com

James

 

[jknaus]

Found my little box.

When doing hollow prints I try to make the drain holes at least 4mm as the LED is 3mm. Then insert and turn on and wait a couple of minutes. Thats all it takes to ensure there is no uncured resin inside. Then there should be no issues with the resin expanding or gassing and cracking or destroying of your print. I guess I should put my screw inserts in and properly screw the lid down rather than this cobbled together sytem I have now.
James

 

[Greg Kimsey]

Found my little box.
View attachment 168769View attachment 168770View attachment 168771
When doing hollow prints I try to make the drain holes at least 4mm as the LED is 3mm. Then insert and turn on and wait a couple of minutes. Thats all it takes to ensure there is no uncured resin inside. Then there should be no issues with the resin expanding or gassing and cracking or destroying of your print. I guess I should put my screw inserts in and properly screw the lid down rather than this cobbled together sytem I have now.
James

This is a great idea! I won't hollow out the tiny car parts but for larger figures I can see this as a smart move for curing the innards.