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I Found a discarded Knob......................

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At 28 Inches of vacuum, for 1/2 an hour, with 40 minutes to decompress, might have been a bit much. The puns/quips are too apparent!! :rotf
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What came out of the mold was a pitted, misshapen, shrunken Peachoid. A rotten Zombie Apocalypse Peachoid? It bears paint and shading. Stay tuned for more developments!!
I've been advised to reduce the vacuum to 15 inches, and 15 minutes for best results with Smooth-on Liquid Plastic. The Research/Experiment continues!!

Thanks for looking in on my ridiculous efforts!!
 
Holy cow Chris I never thought the Peachoid would generate this kind of excitement :woohoo: EVER ... :idonno
 
IMG_6243.JPG

At 28 Inches of vacuum, for 1/2 an hour, with 40 minutes to decompress, might have been a bit much. The puns/quips are too apparent!! :rotf
IMG_6245.JPG

IMG_6244.JPG

What came out of the mold was a pitted, misshapen, shrunken Peachoid. A rotten Zombie Apocalypse Peachoid? It bears paint and shading. Stay tuned for more developments!!
I've been advised to reduce the vacuum to 15 inches, and 15 minutes for best results with Smooth-on Liquid Plastic. The Research/Experiment continues!!

Thanks for looking in on my ridiculous efforts!!


Wow, that looks like how my prostate probably looks right now...

I know you'll get this figured out. I'm looking forward to seeing the next test.
 
The first question that needs to be asked is, How long is the working time on the resin? Then you should only pull vacuum long enough to enlarge the small air bubbles so they will rise to the surface. I would suggest pull full vacuum for a minute, maybe two or three, then release back to ambient and leave it. Vacuum and pressure will cause the mold to distort.

Once I get my vacuum table rebuilt, I will be experimenting a little. The difference is I will be able to see through the large bell jar and observe what the resin does.
 
In the Olden days :eek:ldguy resin casting and vacuum went hand-in-hand. After several email exchanges with the most excellent staff at Reynolds Materials, I've been taught that Smooth Cast 320 is designed to be PRESSURIZED :facepalm @60 PSI. The mold RTV too! Off th the shed I go, to get my old compressor out, and fire it up. I wonder if the ol' Mirro will handle 60 PSI without catastrophic fracture/decompression/ :stinker BOOM!!

Stay tuned for furhter ridiculous developments! Now! it's time for Ice Cream.
 
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Remember this? Since my 2-part molds seem never to work out well, the post-apocalyptic Gaffney Peachoid might get molded in a 1 piece mold. Gator is printing white "Gaffney" decals for this next bit of model mania.
 
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The exposure to vacuum caused this to be hollow in places a guy cain't see. The pedestal is mostly filled. Stuffing scrap everything into the water tower part and putting drops of thin C/A glue to fill the voids. Any trapped air may escape and ruin the mold of the ruined Peachoid (?!?)
"A witness to the ravage of battle in the Carolinas, The gaunt Gaffney Peachoid water tower remains standing near Highway 61. A silent, steadfast, sentinel.
The Swamp Fox militia, Tennessee volunteers, NC National Guard and regular Army units push the enemies of America ever eastward, back toward the Atlantic..........."

Thanks again for looking in!
 
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I made this original Master in 2015. Given what I have learned about molding and casting in 7 years, I decided to open and fill the Peach's pedestal. I 'Dremeled" openings in the base, filled it up with toothpicks and thin C/A glue and left it alone! It was hollow clear to the threads in the knob. Any escaping air would have certainly spoiled the new mold.

The water tank part of the Peachiod water tower has a taper to the pedestal that I didn't properly model. The taper on the battle blasted Butt Crack will be sectioned. One segment would have come off when the 1,000,000 gallons of water burst forth due to concussion.
A whole lot of surface conditioning isn't necessary on the wounded Peach. It will be purposefully ugly.

Thanks again for looking in! :oldguy::salute:
 
Straight super glue takes eons to cure on it's own. If you accelerate this much c/a glue, the reaction creates quite a lot of heat, possibly damaging the plastic Master. Wood absorbs the c/a and helps reduce the shrinking of the glue by helping fill the void. A hollow Master is sure to ruin the mold under pressure when the air escapes and it WILL. All my Masters are solid.:bang head
Howzatt!?!
 
I'm not an expert. I don't know everything. Nothing of what I have learned in 7 years are "Corporate secrets".
What you men have witnessed over my molding and casting career PROVES anybody can do this. Reynolds Materials website has a whole shit-ton of excellent tutorials.

I've done a few "Special Projects" by request for modelers I respect and admire. It's not Black Magic. There ARE steps to follow and pit-falls to avoid to ensure a quality mold and casting. The are copyrights that must be respected if you plan to sell for profit.
I would be glad to help anyone that wanted to try their hand at creating their very own "Model Nobody Else Makes That I Always Wanted".
 
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The damaged Peach is ready to mold. I broke off a curved panel and hung it to show how dire the blast effect damage to the Big Butt-crack was. Still, she stands, wounded but stoic and upright in defiance of the best efforts to bring Her down.

"As American units push the enemy back to the Lowlands, David Hetfield brought his band to Gaffney, SC. It seems when the wind is just right, the loose panel on the Peachoid makes a rhythmic clanging sound that emulates the Bell in one of David's older songs. Amps, HUGE speakers and American music spur our forces on as they pass down Highway 85 into battle to crush the enemies of Liberty. Members of local High School bands and orchestras join the rousing salute!
 
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