Sherman 18
Master at Arms
Roden Holt 75 Artillery Tractor 1/35 scale.
I pulled this out of the stash since I stopped working on the ICM FWD Type B (really really nice kit) as I ordered some PE for it from Russia.
I'm going to go the route of farm tractor or construction tractor instead of a military subject.
There are a number of reviews of this kit out there, the best way I can describe the kit is it is like an old AMT car kit. The details are soft, there is a lot of missing detail, sink marks, punch out marks, off set mold issues, heavy flash, poor fit and warping. But I am finding it really fun. Now don't shy away from this kit as I'm getting older and grumpier. So stay off the lawn.
Most of my research is with this book and internet.
Lets start with the separate link tracks. The tracks have three punch out marks on each link. Instead of my usual filling the punch out marks with putty I used a file or the of my knife blade to knock down the edges. Then I coated the spots with liquid cement and set a side to dry.
I was only able to work about twenty a night before my fingers would cramp up.
completed runs, the fit is not the greatest so they will have to be glued together once I complete the running gear/suspension.
There is sink marks on the just about each track link face. I'm thinking to address at the weathering process. To really fix the issue is to remove the bolt heads and putty each link.
Moving on, I found parts that needed extra work and worked on them between doing the track links.
The roof had a sink mark running all the way down the center. I filled it with Tamiya putty.
I then primed it and found It needed more filling.
I filled the inside frame rails with Tamiya putty for the first coat then used 3M blue spot putty for the second coat. All in all I had to do that twice.
While the frame rails were drying, I started to assemble the running gear.
The fuel tank fit together good, but needs filling and the rivets are really odd compared to reference.
On to the engine. I had to putty the halves and after sanding I made casting texture with liquid cement. Then started to add missing details which has been growing with "since I did this might as well do this." First bolts came from Grandt line, then I moved into using ones I made with a hex punch.
I used liquid cement to make the fine casting texture on other engine pieces and on the exhaust I used thinned 3M putty for the texture.
I added more detail with parts made with a round and hex punch
Front wheel at the point I need to paint the inside to make sure there is good coverage. Also did some glue texturing on some pieces.
Now on to the teaser part I put on the What on the bench thread.
Top of the transmission. I did texturing with liquid cement and thinned 3M putty. I replaced the bolt blobs with Grandt line on top of the transmission. The part had most of the bolt locations but no bolts. I truly think the manufacture did this for me only. They are so thoughtful. Well I used mostly hex punch from .010 styrene for this adding a Grandt line here and there. After checking my reference I noticed the bolts were really nuts on studs so I cut some .020 styrene rod and added to the top of the hex pieces.
not a good photo sorry not going back
On the floor I removed the kit bolts and added Grandt line #127 and added four around the tunnel (two per side)
Take care until next time.
I pulled this out of the stash since I stopped working on the ICM FWD Type B (really really nice kit) as I ordered some PE for it from Russia.
I'm going to go the route of farm tractor or construction tractor instead of a military subject.
There are a number of reviews of this kit out there, the best way I can describe the kit is it is like an old AMT car kit. The details are soft, there is a lot of missing detail, sink marks, punch out marks, off set mold issues, heavy flash, poor fit and warping. But I am finding it really fun. Now don't shy away from this kit as I'm getting older and grumpier. So stay off the lawn.
Most of my research is with this book and internet.
Lets start with the separate link tracks. The tracks have three punch out marks on each link. Instead of my usual filling the punch out marks with putty I used a file or the of my knife blade to knock down the edges. Then I coated the spots with liquid cement and set a side to dry.
I was only able to work about twenty a night before my fingers would cramp up.
completed runs, the fit is not the greatest so they will have to be glued together once I complete the running gear/suspension.
There is sink marks on the just about each track link face. I'm thinking to address at the weathering process. To really fix the issue is to remove the bolt heads and putty each link.
Moving on, I found parts that needed extra work and worked on them between doing the track links.
The roof had a sink mark running all the way down the center. I filled it with Tamiya putty.
I then primed it and found It needed more filling.
I filled the inside frame rails with Tamiya putty for the first coat then used 3M blue spot putty for the second coat. All in all I had to do that twice.
While the frame rails were drying, I started to assemble the running gear.
The fuel tank fit together good, but needs filling and the rivets are really odd compared to reference.
On to the engine. I had to putty the halves and after sanding I made casting texture with liquid cement. Then started to add missing details which has been growing with "since I did this might as well do this." First bolts came from Grandt line, then I moved into using ones I made with a hex punch.
I used liquid cement to make the fine casting texture on other engine pieces and on the exhaust I used thinned 3M putty for the texture.
I added more detail with parts made with a round and hex punch
Front wheel at the point I need to paint the inside to make sure there is good coverage. Also did some glue texturing on some pieces.
Now on to the teaser part I put on the What on the bench thread.
Top of the transmission. I did texturing with liquid cement and thinned 3M putty. I replaced the bolt blobs with Grandt line on top of the transmission. The part had most of the bolt locations but no bolts. I truly think the manufacture did this for me only. They are so thoughtful. Well I used mostly hex punch from .010 styrene for this adding a Grandt line here and there. After checking my reference I noticed the bolts were really nuts on studs so I cut some .020 styrene rod and added to the top of the hex pieces.
not a good photo sorry not going back
On the floor I removed the kit bolts and added Grandt line #127 and added four around the tunnel (two per side)
Take care until next time.
