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Do it again Rosie

While I wish I had the gumption to rebuild the tail wheel itself, I'm ok with this so far.
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JUST found this photo.
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The mount look more like a leaf spring. I might have something for that also.
 
Sorry i am just catching up here Bob. That undersize piece of clear !!!! why do they do that ? they could give you an A4 sheet and it wouldn't cost as much as them trying to cut up a piece to size. On my last car build Italeri give you a piece of 7mm tubing to make some hoses. its 30mm long and if you add up the dimension in the instructions the four pieces required add up to 35mm ? this plastic tube is throw away price. I just bought 6 sheets of A4 , 0.4mm clear for exactly the reason you needed it. The postage was more than the sheet :) (moan over)

Love the tail wheel I probably have the springs you need as well, 5mm long from MFH labelled as exhaust springs for holding silencer to pipes.
 
Thank's Paddy, I couldn't find the clear sheets at the Hobbylobby but I did find clear sticker, stuck the frame to it then a couple of coats of clear deactivated the sticky glue. It's not up to exacting standards but works for me.
I'm going to add another run of brass to simulate that leaf spring action. I got the chain and spring work already mapped out.
 
I also can supply defunct watch mainsprings. They can be brittle, but heat them real good (till they start to glow) over a candle flame and they will bend quite well and actually be springy. They are some steel alloy and can be quite strong for what they are.

Just PM me if you want some.
 
The tiniest springs I have come across are the filament in the old incandescent bulbs.
View attachment 190515
Yes! Every filament bulb I have that goes out gets the filament harvested. I found the easiest way to open the bulb is with my coarse bench grinding wheel. I touch the bulb to the corner edge of the wheel just above the metal end. It grinds through quickly and causes the glass around the metal base to crack loose. No pop, no shards on the outside. There are a few that are sucked inside the bulb, but not an issue. I then pull out the center part with filament, remove the wires, and store them in a small box and pitch the bulb.

I remember chuckw used a filament on one of his builds years ago before he got all angry. That is where I learned the trick.

I used a filament for a spring on my 251 engine.

SdKfz 251-1D - 030.jpg
 
I think you would be lucky to find a filament bulb over here now, most were banned years ago. I dont know but i would guess a new filament would be better than a used one that had done thousands of heat cycles. ? i think my approach would be to wind my own to fit given most springs on models are just show and dont need to be spring steel although i appreciate if you have a bulb to hand its a lot easier..
 
I think you would be lucky to find a filament bulb over here now, most were banned years ago.
Same here. I don't know if it is at the federal level but NY banned them and the house had plenty 22 years ago when I bought it. I then replaced all my bulbs but kept the old ones as my thought was to use it for warming (doghouse, chicken coop, greenhouse) but none of those happened, except the doghouse. Unfortunately, my current pup would wander off the property so is not kept outside so long! All that to state that I still have a few bulbs left. Some are even new.
 
Same here Saúl. I moved into this house 13 years ago and there were all filament bulbs here along with spares. I figured out a new way to open and remove the filaments that is quick and easy using my bench grinder. It takes just a couple of seconds and works nice and safe. I use the coarse wheel edge on the bulb glass right next to the metal base part. It grinds through in a second. Sucks the few shards into the bulb, and then the base usually just cracks all the way around and all the wires and parts attached to the base just slide right out.

Bulb opening.jpg
 
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