Building a 1/35 Sd.Kfz. 7 mittlerer Zugkraftwagen 8 ton

[Panzerwrecker]

Once the initial pin wash had fully dried all the assemblies were given an airbrushed coat of matt varnish

After letting the varnish coat cure for another 24hrs, additional light applications of enamel dust and dirt effects were added to areas where they woulld naturally accumulate. Further localised oil paint pin washes were added to add not only tone variation and contrast, but to accentuate deeper shadows. A case in point being on the radiator housing where I felt a darker wash was required inbetween the radiator fins.



The heaviest pin washes were applied to the track wheels. These lower areas of the vehicle are still to receive an airbrushed coat of disrupted dust layers, so adding more contrast now should still make the details pop. H2O was brush applied over the track pad surfaces and then agitated to remove any track link paint previously airbrushed over them. Both track runs were then given a very light wash and speckling effects with dust and dirt toned enamels.




Final connection of all the finished sub-assemblies, wheels, and tracks back together is a step I really look forward to. First up is to add the engine and fuel tank to the chassis folowed by connection of the steering wheel and windscreen, so both cab assembly and front bodywork assembly can be fixed snugly together.

Chassis assembly





Bodywork assembly




Fuel tank with a few spills for good measure



Cargo body assembly




Tilt cover




I gave up on fixing the groves in the sprockets. No matter how many coats of diluted Tamiya putty I ran round the face, it just kept sinking back in! The hub caps have yet to be added although I might leave one/both off as they will hide all those lovely bolt heads.




As I never followed the crazy instruction step of adding the cab levers to the gearbox early on, they will be added after the cab has been connected to the chassis. I have managed this process successfully in a few Sd.Kfz.7 builds and the only additional requirement is to snip off the locating nub on the lever that connects into the side of the gearbox. It is easily fixed at the correct height with a drop of glue and will still slot through the cab floor aperture as the other two levers do. If the cab fixes down on the chassis nice and square the two levers that locate into the holes in the top of the gearbox will just drop in, and even if they don't it is not a big issue as the connection point is not visible. As long as the correct height of all the levers is maintained all will be well.


Rear cab assembly



Los

 

[Panzerwrecker]

I like your assembly/paint process.

Tis the only way I have been able to get good access to paint both the cab interior and chassis and still maintain a decent fit of all the components when it finally all comes together. Trust me, my earlier attempts were pretty dodgy!

 

[Panzerwrecker]

Painted sub-assembly construction

Before closing the cab up, the floor was lightly weathered with various enamel dust colours and the tread plate dry brushed with some dark oils to simulate some light wear. The steering wheel was then added before both sub-assemblies were finally fixed together.






The basic engine and fuel tank were fixed to the chassis followed by the track wheels. The track teeth and sprocket rollers were burnished with a pencil before fitting.






To start of the process of adding a layer of dust over the the running gear, it first received a couple of coats of hairspray. A light dusty coloured mix of Tamiya buff acrylic was then airbrushed on. Once dry the acrylic coat was agitated with H2O and an old brush. This leaves a random ground in dust effect of the acrylic paint around both wheels and tyres.




To start the weathering on the front wheels, a very light toned dried earth enamel was blended out from the rims. This all looks a bit stark and unnatural at this stage but it will be toned down and enhanced with further effects




It's a nice feeling to make it to the point where it all successfully starts to fall together. One last job before fixing both cab and cargo body is to ensure any visible portions of the chassis and underside of the fenders receive the same amount of weathering.




Once happy to progress the largest sub-assemblies were fixed first, followed by all the smaller components including the headlight lenses and the Notek light and bracket that I knocked off earlier. Masking off or scaratching off paint at all contact points on both chassis, cab and cargo body always helps with both alignment and adhesion. The same type of initial weathering products and effects were then blended over the exterior. The tyres received some dry earth toned pigments which were first applied dry and 'stippled' on with a soft stubby brush. A quick and effective run over both tyre faces with a finger completed their appearance.



Next up is to add a little more colour contrast with more oil paint work

Los

 

[moon puppy]

Love to see how the application of just a couple of washes adds so much to the depth of the scheme.

 

[Sharkmouth]

Just the thing to tow my Biber is I can make the trailer!