Panzerwrecker
Member
I do love an axis halftrack, but you've probably guessed that by nowYou've clearly done your homework on this build.
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Building a 1/35 Sd.Kfz. 7 mittlerer Zugkraftwagen 8 ton
- Thread starter Panzerwrecker
- Start date
If you are on FB, where he is most active, he will gladly share his information as long as you keep and provide proper credit.Sad now it is no more. He provided some great content
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I am working on the Das Werk Sdkfz 251/1 in 1/16th scale. So far it is one of the most detailed kits I have worked on. Jut building the chassis alone is a kit in itself.
I am also a bit of a German half track aficionado. I think I have more 251 kits than about any other type.
Absolutely loved the reference you just posted.
I am also a bit of a German half track aficionado. I think I have more 251 kits than about any other type.
Absolutely loved the reference you just posted.
Panzerwrecker
Member
I eyeballed the one I build years and wondered how far off it is from what your research shows. These things were monsters!
Excellent info Los
Excellent info Los
Panzerwrecker
Member
Carrying on where we left off its time to look at the running gear. I’m not a big fan of repetitive work so I like to spread the task of wheel and track clean up over a few bench sessions, so this work continues at a glacial pace.
Meanwhile, let us look at the kit’s dodgy sprockets! As already mentioned, they have two big issues. The main one is simple to remedy, if not a little time consuming. Trumpeter have not offset the inner rollers so when you attach the tracks to the sprocket, they don’t sit flat against the track pads. The second is that they have bevelled grooves on the face. Similar marks can be seen on the face in the resto vehicle image below, but they are not deeply grooved. These marks/grooves don’t show in the Panzer Tracts book or appear in any period image that I have seen to date.
I am sure there will be some 3D printed 1/35 Sd.Kfz 7 sprocket files out there somewhere. If you are lucky enough to own or know somebody who owns a 3D printer, then if they can be made specifically to fit the Trumpeter kits that really is the way to go.
The kit front wheels are offered as rubber tyres with plastic hubs. I’m not a big fan of rubber tyres on kits. I know they are mini replicas of the real thing and although the kit ones are OK and the pattern usable, they dont tend to take weathering products too well. I plan to use a set of Quick Wheel resin items. Whilst their wheel spokes are a little ‘off’ in terms of shape, the overall size and wheel tread pattern is authentic. I’m not sure these are that easily available in the UK as they once were. There are, however, many other manufacturers of resin/3D printed wheels in 1/35 scale nowadays. They include Def Model, Panzerart, and ET Model to name a few.
The tracks links are made up of three pieces. The main link, part TR2, the pad holder, part TR1, and the track pad, part TR3. Although this appears an overly complicated design, apart from the tedious clean-up and construction process, they look good and will, if omitting the rubber pad part, represent a cool looking set of burnt out tracks. Use a thicker glue in construction to avoid sticking links together and you have a nice strong set of articulating tracks. So, with this time consuming track and wheel work on steps 13 to 15 still ongoing, let’s come back to these and move on to the bodybuilding steps
With the reworked seat layout and new battery box added during the cab assembly construction step 16, lets look at how the cab assembly aligns onto the chassis. Don't be tempted to add it to the chassis on its own at this point as there are no alignment marks on the chassis rails for it to fit precisely. The front bodywork assembly does have a precise fitment onto the chassis (see step 17) so use this and it will dictate where the cab assembly locates on the chassis.
Step 17 instructs the fit of both the front bodywork moulding, part (WA4) and the cab assembly to the chassis. I have an alternative to this build sequencing which can keep both cab and front bodywork assemblies seperate to aid airbrushing tasks. I will explain my method shortly but if you follow the instructions to step 18 this is where the steering wheel shaft must be added because both cab and bulkhead assemblies effectively ‘trap’ it in place. As shown in step 17 fitment of the front bodywork moulding onto the chassis will also confirm the location of the cab assembly. This is is due to the front bodywork moulding having a precise connection by way of a keyed connection in the chassis rails. The cab assembly just butts up against the fuel tank brackets at the rear and doesn’t actually sit on the chassis rails at all! The only mating surfaces are with the lower front frame (as per pic above) to the chassis, and connection to the front bodywork moulding, around the angled track guards.
As for my alternative build sequencing, having built a few of these I now find it much easier to build the bodywork into sub-assemblies off the chassis until I get some paint on. If you do follow the instructions through these steps, it will make adding a decent coverage of paint to both cab interior and areas below the two assemblies tricky.
Alternative build sequencing (steps 17 through 22)
First attach the steering wheel shaft to the bulkhead assembly. It is connected by way of photo-etch bracing to the inside of the bulkhead and attaching it to the bracing must be added before adding the instrument panel. The only fiddly aspect to this method is if you are displaying the engine panels open. You will then need to ensure the bottom of the steering wheel shaft aligns perfectly with the steering box part which fits onto the chassis rail! It's just a matter of test fitting with components dry fitted. If the engine panels are to remain closed, as I intend with this build, simply snip the shaft in half and connect the lower half to the the steering box. This way you can still attach all the steering linkages.
This alternative method of construction will also keep the radiator housing, engine panels, and bulkhead all snugly connected. Assembling it in this manner means you can also add a painted engine to a painted chassis before adding the painted bodywork and still be sure everything lines up perfectly.
Completed sub-assemblies awaiting paint
Test fitted together
In step 17, we also had assembly of the two exhaust pipes halves. They thread through the various holes and apertures in the chassis frame. The joint is engineered to be hidden inside the exhaust box. I recommend adding the rear section first to get the correct spacing. Although not pointed out in the instructions, there is a small hole in the rear pipe half, just behind the box, that aligns with a pip on the horizontal tube sat underneath the winch.
The front pipe half fits up through a hole in the front bodywork moulding and attaches to the manifold. It is a tight fit next to all the steering linkages. In my alternative method of construction it is far easier to add the front section of the pipe after the front bodywork assembly is added to the chassis. The front pipe to manifold connection point is hidden so if the engine bay panels are closed you can simply snip the angled portion up to the manifold connection short. It is a little more of a challenging process if the engine is visible, as you have to successfully wiggle it into position and align it to the manifold.
Front pipework route.
Step 18 is where you attach the engine bulkhead to the cab assembly. As already mentioned above I’m not a fan of this assembly sequence so devised my own method of construction between the main body sub-assemblies in steps 17 through 22. I have found that if the instructions are followed to the letter, it is all too easy to misalign these main component parts. Adding the bulkhead to the cab floor effectively ‘traps’ the steering shaft. The final placement of the bulkhead determines the position of the cab front panel (part WD18 in step 19), which in turn determines the spacing of the engine bonnet/hood and side panels against the radiator housing, so you can see how easily things could go pair shaped! One of the kit's parts that will almost definately conspire again you is the triangular shaped reinforcing braces, parts WB5 & 6, sat on the engine bay side of the bulkhead. These are crudely moulded and have prominent mould seams. If not fixed in exactly the right position they can have a knock on effect of screwing upon the alignment of all the major sub assemblies. Nice one Trumpy
Step 18 and 19 is where you begin to add all the photo-etch.
If you have at this point kept the engine separate for painting, bear in mind that it will not fit in the engine bay once both the bulkhead (part WD12) and radiator housing (A27) are added.
In step 19 we add all manner of cab and engine parts. The long horizontal instrument panel Trumpeter have bestowed us with includes a full complement of instrument dial decals but beware, the positioning is at odds with period images and resto vehicle pics.
Step 20 just adds the front mud guard/fender lower reinforcing braces which are provided on the photo-etch fret. They don't align to the underbody very well and have to be manipulated to fit. Again, ref pics will help in this area. Step 21 builds up the radiator and housing, engine panels, and bonnet/hood, which all fit well. At this point it is worth noting Trumpeter have included angled witness marks to place the angled armoured front plate, which provide additional protected to all the Flak variant vehicles. This should be removed on this variant.
Steps 22 and 23 finish off the cab and adds all the small accessories like lights, width indicators and tools. Trumpeter have provided a thin clear plastic screen to sit in the windscreen/sheild frame, so is easily added after paint. The whole frame will hinge with care, but it is only by way of photo-etch hinge brackets, so won’t stand up to continuous movement.
PE windscreen/shield frame brackets
Until the next update
Los
Meanwhile, let us look at the kit’s dodgy sprockets! As already mentioned, they have two big issues. The main one is simple to remedy, if not a little time consuming. Trumpeter have not offset the inner rollers so when you attach the tracks to the sprocket, they don’t sit flat against the track pads. The second is that they have bevelled grooves on the face. Similar marks can be seen on the face in the resto vehicle image below, but they are not deeply grooved. These marks/grooves don’t show in the Panzer Tracts book or appear in any period image that I have seen to date.
I am sure there will be some 3D printed 1/35 Sd.Kfz 7 sprocket files out there somewhere. If you are lucky enough to own or know somebody who owns a 3D printer, then if they can be made specifically to fit the Trumpeter kits that really is the way to go.
The kit front wheels are offered as rubber tyres with plastic hubs. I’m not a big fan of rubber tyres on kits. I know they are mini replicas of the real thing and although the kit ones are OK and the pattern usable, they dont tend to take weathering products too well. I plan to use a set of Quick Wheel resin items. Whilst their wheel spokes are a little ‘off’ in terms of shape, the overall size and wheel tread pattern is authentic. I’m not sure these are that easily available in the UK as they once were. There are, however, many other manufacturers of resin/3D printed wheels in 1/35 scale nowadays. They include Def Model, Panzerart, and ET Model to name a few.
The tracks links are made up of three pieces. The main link, part TR2, the pad holder, part TR1, and the track pad, part TR3. Although this appears an overly complicated design, apart from the tedious clean-up and construction process, they look good and will, if omitting the rubber pad part, represent a cool looking set of burnt out tracks. Use a thicker glue in construction to avoid sticking links together and you have a nice strong set of articulating tracks. So, with this time consuming track and wheel work on steps 13 to 15 still ongoing, let’s come back to these and move on to the bodybuilding steps
With the reworked seat layout and new battery box added during the cab assembly construction step 16, lets look at how the cab assembly aligns onto the chassis. Don't be tempted to add it to the chassis on its own at this point as there are no alignment marks on the chassis rails for it to fit precisely. The front bodywork assembly does have a precise fitment onto the chassis (see step 17) so use this and it will dictate where the cab assembly locates on the chassis.
Step 17 instructs the fit of both the front bodywork moulding, part (WA4) and the cab assembly to the chassis. I have an alternative to this build sequencing which can keep both cab and front bodywork assemblies seperate to aid airbrushing tasks. I will explain my method shortly but if you follow the instructions to step 18 this is where the steering wheel shaft must be added because both cab and bulkhead assemblies effectively ‘trap’ it in place. As shown in step 17 fitment of the front bodywork moulding onto the chassis will also confirm the location of the cab assembly. This is is due to the front bodywork moulding having a precise connection by way of a keyed connection in the chassis rails. The cab assembly just butts up against the fuel tank brackets at the rear and doesn’t actually sit on the chassis rails at all! The only mating surfaces are with the lower front frame (as per pic above) to the chassis, and connection to the front bodywork moulding, around the angled track guards.
As for my alternative build sequencing, having built a few of these I now find it much easier to build the bodywork into sub-assemblies off the chassis until I get some paint on. If you do follow the instructions through these steps, it will make adding a decent coverage of paint to both cab interior and areas below the two assemblies tricky.
Alternative build sequencing (steps 17 through 22)
First attach the steering wheel shaft to the bulkhead assembly. It is connected by way of photo-etch bracing to the inside of the bulkhead and attaching it to the bracing must be added before adding the instrument panel. The only fiddly aspect to this method is if you are displaying the engine panels open. You will then need to ensure the bottom of the steering wheel shaft aligns perfectly with the steering box part which fits onto the chassis rail! It's just a matter of test fitting with components dry fitted. If the engine panels are to remain closed, as I intend with this build, simply snip the shaft in half and connect the lower half to the the steering box. This way you can still attach all the steering linkages.
This alternative method of construction will also keep the radiator housing, engine panels, and bulkhead all snugly connected. Assembling it in this manner means you can also add a painted engine to a painted chassis before adding the painted bodywork and still be sure everything lines up perfectly.
Completed sub-assemblies awaiting paint
Test fitted together
In step 17, we also had assembly of the two exhaust pipes halves. They thread through the various holes and apertures in the chassis frame. The joint is engineered to be hidden inside the exhaust box. I recommend adding the rear section first to get the correct spacing. Although not pointed out in the instructions, there is a small hole in the rear pipe half, just behind the box, that aligns with a pip on the horizontal tube sat underneath the winch.
The front pipe half fits up through a hole in the front bodywork moulding and attaches to the manifold. It is a tight fit next to all the steering linkages. In my alternative method of construction it is far easier to add the front section of the pipe after the front bodywork assembly is added to the chassis. The front pipe to manifold connection point is hidden so if the engine bay panels are closed you can simply snip the angled portion up to the manifold connection short. It is a little more of a challenging process if the engine is visible, as you have to successfully wiggle it into position and align it to the manifold.
Front pipework route.
Step 18 is where you attach the engine bulkhead to the cab assembly. As already mentioned above I’m not a fan of this assembly sequence so devised my own method of construction between the main body sub-assemblies in steps 17 through 22. I have found that if the instructions are followed to the letter, it is all too easy to misalign these main component parts. Adding the bulkhead to the cab floor effectively ‘traps’ the steering shaft. The final placement of the bulkhead determines the position of the cab front panel (part WD18 in step 19), which in turn determines the spacing of the engine bonnet/hood and side panels against the radiator housing, so you can see how easily things could go pair shaped! One of the kit's parts that will almost definately conspire again you is the triangular shaped reinforcing braces, parts WB5 & 6, sat on the engine bay side of the bulkhead. These are crudely moulded and have prominent mould seams. If not fixed in exactly the right position they can have a knock on effect of screwing upon the alignment of all the major sub assemblies. Nice one Trumpy
Step 18 and 19 is where you begin to add all the photo-etch.
If you have at this point kept the engine separate for painting, bear in mind that it will not fit in the engine bay once both the bulkhead (part WD12) and radiator housing (A27) are added.
In step 19 we add all manner of cab and engine parts. The long horizontal instrument panel Trumpeter have bestowed us with includes a full complement of instrument dial decals but beware, the positioning is at odds with period images and resto vehicle pics.
Step 20 just adds the front mud guard/fender lower reinforcing braces which are provided on the photo-etch fret. They don't align to the underbody very well and have to be manipulated to fit. Again, ref pics will help in this area. Step 21 builds up the radiator and housing, engine panels, and bonnet/hood, which all fit well. At this point it is worth noting Trumpeter have included angled witness marks to place the angled armoured front plate, which provide additional protected to all the Flak variant vehicles. This should be removed on this variant.
Steps 22 and 23 finish off the cab and adds all the small accessories like lights, width indicators and tools. Trumpeter have provided a thin clear plastic screen to sit in the windscreen/sheild frame, so is easily added after paint. The whole frame will hinge with care, but it is only by way of photo-etch hinge brackets, so won’t stand up to continuous movement.
PE windscreen/shield frame brackets
Until the next update
Los
Last edited:
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Looks like typical Trumpeter, half baked assembly and things left out and wrong. (Yeah I have a few Trumpy kits 
)
You are doing an outstanding job on building and documenting this, keep up the good work!
)You are doing an outstanding job on building and documenting this, keep up the good work!
Panzerwrecker
Member
Thanks man. Yeah, they are not a patch on the Dragon versions of this vehicle in terms of moulding tech, design and engineering. I've only built a handful of Trumpy kits and the quaility has been hit and miss!Looks like typical Trumpeter, half baked assembly and things left out and wrong. (Yeah I have a few Trumpy kits
You are doing an outstanding job on building and documenting this, keep up the good work!
View attachment 184792
Panzerwrecker
Member
Building the cargo body: Steps 24 to 28
Whilst still working on completing the tracks runs, I started inspecting the cargo body parts and remembered how exaggerated the woodgrain detail is. The much larger issue is that this kit does not include the wooden equipment rack! Instead the kit provides some strange planking dividers instead. If you want to show include an equipment rack you will have to scratch build one or use the Dragon Sd.Kfz (late) kit part.
You get two options to display the cargo area. One is open with the framework added, and one is to use the provided tilt cover. There is also a cover for the cab.
You can hide the fact that no equipment rack is present by simply adding the included tilt cover. The moulding of the canvas doesn’t look particularly exciting in bare plastic, and it is way too uniform and straight at the bottom edge. Unfortunately, the tilt framework detail is moulded inside the canvas, so you do not have the option to add it over the framework.
Cab and cargo tilt cover mouldings
Thankfully all the woodgrain detailed panel parts are free from sink marks on both sides, which is a commendable achievement and the floor panel part WC23 is almost free from any apart from some shallow ones, which are mostly hidden under the support framework to be added. No bolt detail is added on the underside. The two main wooden frame rails benefit from reducing the size of their locating nubs, as they won’t sit flush in the underfloor recesses otherwise. The panels that make up the sides all fit together well although, just like the frame rails, it is worth reducing the size of their locating nubs to get a nice flush fit on the bed. As by now you will have learned, test fit and test fit again!
The two longitudinal wooden rails added to the underside of the cargo body
The instruction step 31 have you snip off the tops of all the upper hinge plates if you are fitting the tilt cover. This is a simplified answer and TBH the canvas moulding will still bulge over the very tops of the hinge detail. With the bottom edge of the tilt cover moulding being too straight and uniform it really does benefit from some extra work.
Although it will be barely visible on my build, I added the cut out in the rear panel along with two reinforcing strips on the inside, as you see these a lot in period images. The wooden dowel was used as a spacer when constructing the cargo bed panels
If you are not at all bothered about the kit’s cargo body inaccuracies and plan to add just the framework, it does all build up nicely. The inclusion of photo-etch for the reinforcing bars, clasps, licence plate, and locking bar detail being particularly nice touches.
Photo-etch detail added to the underside of the cargo body. There should be two tailgate stop brackets located at both ends of the framework but for some reason the kit only provides the one photo-etch piece to be fitted near the licence plate. *It is worth pointing out at this point that this frameowrk layout is correctly represented. The Dragon 'late' kit includes the reinforced framework which was only fitted to Flak variant bodies.
It looks very much like Trumpeter provides the same chassis rail moulding with all their Sd.Kf.7 kits, with framework locating tabs positioned all along the rail. What this means with this kit is that only the front and rear locating tabs are actualy utilised. The framework brackets locate well into the rear most tabs but at the front they need re-working to accomodate the brackets! TBH removing the front locating tabs altogether is advised as the framework bracket detail effectively 'wraps’ around the chassis rails to align anyway.
The red arrow below points towards an unused location tab positioned along the chassis rail and the white arrow points to a re-worked and reduced size tab to accept the front loadbed brackets.
To make things even more confusing the cargo body framework on this variant has middle brackets that connect to the chassis rail with no tab present. Unfortunately this happens to sit just behind the shackle pin location point and in exactly the spot where the instruction diagram illustrates you orientate the shackles in earlier steps! These can be added without glue and can rotate fore and aft in the location hole but many would have already committed to a perminant fixing. Add your own expletive!
Test fit progress so far
Notice how uniform the bottom edges of the tilt cover are. I have had to thin the areas over the cut down hinges otherwises it sits unnaturally and pivots on them all.
Los
Whilst still working on completing the tracks runs, I started inspecting the cargo body parts and remembered how exaggerated the woodgrain detail is. The much larger issue is that this kit does not include the wooden equipment rack! Instead the kit provides some strange planking dividers instead. If you want to show include an equipment rack you will have to scratch build one or use the Dragon Sd.Kfz (late) kit part.
You get two options to display the cargo area. One is open with the framework added, and one is to use the provided tilt cover. There is also a cover for the cab.
You can hide the fact that no equipment rack is present by simply adding the included tilt cover. The moulding of the canvas doesn’t look particularly exciting in bare plastic, and it is way too uniform and straight at the bottom edge. Unfortunately, the tilt framework detail is moulded inside the canvas, so you do not have the option to add it over the framework.
Cab and cargo tilt cover mouldings
Thankfully all the woodgrain detailed panel parts are free from sink marks on both sides, which is a commendable achievement and the floor panel part WC23 is almost free from any apart from some shallow ones, which are mostly hidden under the support framework to be added. No bolt detail is added on the underside. The two main wooden frame rails benefit from reducing the size of their locating nubs, as they won’t sit flush in the underfloor recesses otherwise. The panels that make up the sides all fit together well although, just like the frame rails, it is worth reducing the size of their locating nubs to get a nice flush fit on the bed. As by now you will have learned, test fit and test fit again!
The two longitudinal wooden rails added to the underside of the cargo body
The instruction step 31 have you snip off the tops of all the upper hinge plates if you are fitting the tilt cover. This is a simplified answer and TBH the canvas moulding will still bulge over the very tops of the hinge detail. With the bottom edge of the tilt cover moulding being too straight and uniform it really does benefit from some extra work.
Although it will be barely visible on my build, I added the cut out in the rear panel along with two reinforcing strips on the inside, as you see these a lot in period images. The wooden dowel was used as a spacer when constructing the cargo bed panels
If you are not at all bothered about the kit’s cargo body inaccuracies and plan to add just the framework, it does all build up nicely. The inclusion of photo-etch for the reinforcing bars, clasps, licence plate, and locking bar detail being particularly nice touches.
Photo-etch detail added to the underside of the cargo body. There should be two tailgate stop brackets located at both ends of the framework but for some reason the kit only provides the one photo-etch piece to be fitted near the licence plate. *It is worth pointing out at this point that this frameowrk layout is correctly represented. The Dragon 'late' kit includes the reinforced framework which was only fitted to Flak variant bodies.
It looks very much like Trumpeter provides the same chassis rail moulding with all their Sd.Kf.7 kits, with framework locating tabs positioned all along the rail. What this means with this kit is that only the front and rear locating tabs are actualy utilised. The framework brackets locate well into the rear most tabs but at the front they need re-working to accomodate the brackets! TBH removing the front locating tabs altogether is advised as the framework bracket detail effectively 'wraps’ around the chassis rails to align anyway.
The red arrow below points towards an unused location tab positioned along the chassis rail and the white arrow points to a re-worked and reduced size tab to accept the front loadbed brackets.
To make things even more confusing the cargo body framework on this variant has middle brackets that connect to the chassis rail with no tab present. Unfortunately this happens to sit just behind the shackle pin location point and in exactly the spot where the instruction diagram illustrates you orientate the shackles in earlier steps! These can be added without glue and can rotate fore and aft in the location hole but many would have already committed to a perminant fixing. Add your own expletive!
Test fit progress so far
Notice how uniform the bottom edges of the tilt cover are. I have had to thin the areas over the cut down hinges otherwises it sits unnaturally and pivots on them all.
Los
Last edited:
Panzerwrecker
Member
Wheels, tracks and tilt cover
All the track wheels have been cleaned up and the track runs completed. The wheel design and detail is accurate for a late war manufatured vehicle. As for the sprockets, I have since found that ET Model do now offer a 3D printed sprocket and track specific set for the Dragon kit. Whilst I do some more research I figured I would apply the ‘sprocket fix’ and see what I could do with the kit ones anyway. The issue is that the sprocket is not designed with the correct roller 'offset' and will not except both the track teeth and track links to engage properly over the sprocket. If you look at a built up kit sprocket face, the inner rollers sit equidistant between each sprocket rubber pad. They should be offset slighty forward of the centre line each side. The kit sprocket is built up from three main parts including front and rear faces, and an inner ring containing the rollers and track teeth cut outs. The inner ring has inner facing clock dial spaced tabs which dictate the spacing for the track link teeth. It also has a keyed connection with the front face part of the sprocket.
The re-work involves removing the keyed connection and all the tabs off the ring shaped part containing the rollers, so the part can be re-aligned and spaced correctly between inner and outer sprocket faces. This will allow the track teeth to engage in the offset cut outs and the links to sit flush on the sprocket rubber pads. Although the fix does instruct the re-installment of all the tabs I’ve never bothered sticking them back in. I figured they were never going to fit properly and TBH, you have to look real hard to spot their absence when the sprocket is built back up. As the real sprockets were handed each one must be built back up differently so the rollers will sit just forward of the sprocket pad centre line on each side. You should have two sprockets with the rollers now repositioned both a little left and a little right of the centre line on the sprocket rubber pads. When you apply the fix and are ready to glue the roller ring part back to sprocket faces, use a small track run orientated in the correct direction to test and get the perfect fit.
With the fit issue taken care of there are still a few issues left to deal with. The sprocket face omits the pad plate and bolts detail and as for the odd groves on the face, I have applied multiple coats of diluted Tamiya putty with a brush to try and hide them. Three coats in I can still see them, so I still have a way to go!
The kit's PE step ring and facia plate are still to be added once the grooves vanish
54 track links are confirmed per side in the PT book and the kit calls out the same. Each link is comprised of three parts, the link, pad plate, and the pad, and all are sprue bound and need to be cleaned up
The track links are small so clean up is tedious and even after careful sanding the pad and plate can still look a bit ‘messy’ I glued all the pads to the plates with the ‘messy’ side facing in the same direction. That way once you work out the track direction of each run you can glue them all to the links and have all the unmolested sides visible.
One track run test fitted. The links over the sprocket, even unpainted are a snug fit. You can see that the link on the top of the sprocket in the pic below has not engaged fully, so they do need a little helping hand.
The turn signal detail on my build has been removed off the cab side panels. They were omitted from 1943 onwards on the earlier metal cab and I don’t recall seeing any period images with them fitted to the wooden cab. I also added some additional detail to the back of the cab’s cover. It was basically flat with no window flap detail on the inner face. I used some VMS paper and paper shaper to bling things up a bit.
Although it wasn’t required to be moveable on my build, I found that the windscreen frame would not fold down flat on the bonnet/hood as it should. This was due to the hinge bracket detail made up of photo etch parts that connect the screen to the body. Oddly it would fold backwards into the cab but not forwards! The photo-etch pizza slice shaped parts are orientated in the correct way, so I cannot explain this!
With the construction phase almost complete I am now starting to muse about a colour scheme. I have never seen a period colour image of one of these late war vehicles. I imagine most would have left the factory in plain dark yellow (Dunkelgelb). There are some period images of this vehicle with the 'blotchy' style of camo pattern and then there is the ubiquitous spaghetti style. Being applied in the field I'm not sure either could be labelled schemes though? Although the elaborate large banded tri-tonal scheme on the restoration vehicles looks way too nice to have been applied in the field it's something I might consider.
Blotchy tri-tone camo on an abandoned 8t and below that a bogged down vehicle painted in plain Dunkelgelb
Before the airbrush makes an appearance lets look at the few small and fragile parts I kept seperate in the earlier stages of the build. The cab control levers will be added during cab painting and many of the front bodywork moulding accessories like the Notek light, the headlights, and width indicators, will all be added once the two main sub-assemblies have been attached.
I wanted to try and improve the look of the tilt cover. The kit part could do with being a few mm longer and wider and should overlap the side panels more. It is also missing some detail. Using the PT book images as reference, VMS paper has been cut into the various shapes that make up the tilt canvas components, and attached onto the tilt moulding with VMS paper shaper.
Test fit of the re-worked tilt cover. The front wheels are Quick Wheel resin items. Outer roadwheels are not yet attached.
I have finally decided to create the factory fresh vehicle shown on the cover of the Panzer Tracts cover. No tools or fixings are present on the bonnet/hood and it wears a coat of fresh Dunkelgelb paint. A little more prep work is required on builds requiring an interior to be painted so my plan is to split the painting steps up. I will first rattle can prime, then with the airbrush, shadow coat, base coat, and add a little colour modulation. A gloss/satin varnish coat will be laid down before adding the cab instrument decals and then again to seal them. The tracks, tyres, engine, and exhaust will also receive their own base coats whilst the airbrush is out. The cab and tilt covers will also be painted separately.
My choice of paint will be MRP lacquers. They offer some nice WWII German tri-tonal camo colours with no less than three Dunkelgelb options. They require no thinning and spray beautifully smooth. Once dry I will decide whether a satin varnish coat is required to aid a pin wash.
All the track wheels have been cleaned up and the track runs completed. The wheel design and detail is accurate for a late war manufatured vehicle. As for the sprockets, I have since found that ET Model do now offer a 3D printed sprocket and track specific set for the Dragon kit. Whilst I do some more research I figured I would apply the ‘sprocket fix’ and see what I could do with the kit ones anyway. The issue is that the sprocket is not designed with the correct roller 'offset' and will not except both the track teeth and track links to engage properly over the sprocket. If you look at a built up kit sprocket face, the inner rollers sit equidistant between each sprocket rubber pad. They should be offset slighty forward of the centre line each side. The kit sprocket is built up from three main parts including front and rear faces, and an inner ring containing the rollers and track teeth cut outs. The inner ring has inner facing clock dial spaced tabs which dictate the spacing for the track link teeth. It also has a keyed connection with the front face part of the sprocket.
The re-work involves removing the keyed connection and all the tabs off the ring shaped part containing the rollers, so the part can be re-aligned and spaced correctly between inner and outer sprocket faces. This will allow the track teeth to engage in the offset cut outs and the links to sit flush on the sprocket rubber pads. Although the fix does instruct the re-installment of all the tabs I’ve never bothered sticking them back in. I figured they were never going to fit properly and TBH, you have to look real hard to spot their absence when the sprocket is built back up. As the real sprockets were handed each one must be built back up differently so the rollers will sit just forward of the sprocket pad centre line on each side. You should have two sprockets with the rollers now repositioned both a little left and a little right of the centre line on the sprocket rubber pads. When you apply the fix and are ready to glue the roller ring part back to sprocket faces, use a small track run orientated in the correct direction to test and get the perfect fit.
With the fit issue taken care of there are still a few issues left to deal with. The sprocket face omits the pad plate and bolts detail and as for the odd groves on the face, I have applied multiple coats of diluted Tamiya putty with a brush to try and hide them. Three coats in I can still see them, so I still have a way to go!
The kit's PE step ring and facia plate are still to be added once the grooves vanish
54 track links are confirmed per side in the PT book and the kit calls out the same. Each link is comprised of three parts, the link, pad plate, and the pad, and all are sprue bound and need to be cleaned up
The track links are small so clean up is tedious and even after careful sanding the pad and plate can still look a bit ‘messy’ I glued all the pads to the plates with the ‘messy’ side facing in the same direction. That way once you work out the track direction of each run you can glue them all to the links and have all the unmolested sides visible.
One track run test fitted. The links over the sprocket, even unpainted are a snug fit. You can see that the link on the top of the sprocket in the pic below has not engaged fully, so they do need a little helping hand.
The turn signal detail on my build has been removed off the cab side panels. They were omitted from 1943 onwards on the earlier metal cab and I don’t recall seeing any period images with them fitted to the wooden cab. I also added some additional detail to the back of the cab’s cover. It was basically flat with no window flap detail on the inner face. I used some VMS paper and paper shaper to bling things up a bit.
Although it wasn’t required to be moveable on my build, I found that the windscreen frame would not fold down flat on the bonnet/hood as it should. This was due to the hinge bracket detail made up of photo etch parts that connect the screen to the body. Oddly it would fold backwards into the cab but not forwards! The photo-etch pizza slice shaped parts are orientated in the correct way, so I cannot explain this!
With the construction phase almost complete I am now starting to muse about a colour scheme. I have never seen a period colour image of one of these late war vehicles. I imagine most would have left the factory in plain dark yellow (Dunkelgelb). There are some period images of this vehicle with the 'blotchy' style of camo pattern and then there is the ubiquitous spaghetti style. Being applied in the field I'm not sure either could be labelled schemes though? Although the elaborate large banded tri-tonal scheme on the restoration vehicles looks way too nice to have been applied in the field it's something I might consider.
Blotchy tri-tone camo on an abandoned 8t and below that a bogged down vehicle painted in plain Dunkelgelb
Before the airbrush makes an appearance lets look at the few small and fragile parts I kept seperate in the earlier stages of the build. The cab control levers will be added during cab painting and many of the front bodywork moulding accessories like the Notek light, the headlights, and width indicators, will all be added once the two main sub-assemblies have been attached.
I wanted to try and improve the look of the tilt cover. The kit part could do with being a few mm longer and wider and should overlap the side panels more. It is also missing some detail. Using the PT book images as reference, VMS paper has been cut into the various shapes that make up the tilt canvas components, and attached onto the tilt moulding with VMS paper shaper.
Test fit of the re-worked tilt cover. The front wheels are Quick Wheel resin items. Outer roadwheels are not yet attached.
I have finally decided to create the factory fresh vehicle shown on the cover of the Panzer Tracts cover. No tools or fixings are present on the bonnet/hood and it wears a coat of fresh Dunkelgelb paint. A little more prep work is required on builds requiring an interior to be painted so my plan is to split the painting steps up. I will first rattle can prime, then with the airbrush, shadow coat, base coat, and add a little colour modulation. A gloss/satin varnish coat will be laid down before adding the cab instrument decals and then again to seal them. The tracks, tyres, engine, and exhaust will also receive their own base coats whilst the airbrush is out. The cab and tilt covers will also be painted separately.
My choice of paint will be MRP lacquers. They offer some nice WWII German tri-tonal camo colours with no less than three Dunkelgelb options. They require no thinning and spray beautifully smooth. Once dry I will decide whether a satin varnish coat is required to aid a pin wash.
Last edited:
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Superb build so far! I like the German half tracks as well and like the detail you have posted.
I get the track links Los. I just spent last weekend cutting loose and doing the clean up on the 280 track link parts to my 1/16th 251 build. I did the work while watching seasons 1 and 2 of Jessica Jones. For the most part they are molded quite well and only need minimal clean up if you don't care about them working well. I went the extra mile to make them work nice and smooth with free motion. At the moment they are press assembled in 10 link sections which can be broken down if needed (no glue yet) Still have a long way to go before they get placed around the running gear.
I get the track links Los. I just spent last weekend cutting loose and doing the clean up on the 280 track link parts to my 1/16th 251 build. I did the work while watching seasons 1 and 2 of Jessica Jones. For the most part they are molded quite well and only need minimal clean up if you don't care about them working well. I went the extra mile to make them work nice and smooth with free motion. At the moment they are press assembled in 10 link sections which can be broken down if needed (no glue yet) Still have a long way to go before they get placed around the running gear.
