Building a 1/35 Sd.Kfz. 7 mittlerer Zugkraftwagen 8 ton

[Panzerwrecker]

For some unkown reason I have always been a sucker for WWII halftracks and soft skins, with Axis vehicles being a particular favourite. Over the last few years I have built a fair few Sd.Kfz.7 1/35 kits of which 99% of them come from just two Chinese manufacturers. Tamiya do offer one, but it's pretty prehistoric mouldings are probably best avoided if you want to portray a decent representation of one. Dragon and Trumpeter currently offer around eleven different versions between them. At last count both manufacturers have released twenty-six kits with both producing early and late towing vehicles as well as a number of mobile Flak variants. Both manufacturers do offer many of the same variants with the odd variant being produced by just one. Dragon also offers combo packs which include towed artillery pieces.

So who offers what?

* Dragon (D) Trumpeter (T)

• Gun crew vehicles are available in an 'initial' variant (D), 'early' types (D & T) and 'late' types (D & T)
• Wooden bodied (Holzpritsche) versions are offered by both manufacturers
• The Self-propelled Flak versions carried four main weapons. Both manufacturers offer the early and later armoured cab model 7/1 variant which housed a Flakvierling 38, and both offer three 7/2 versions as well as early and late Flak 37. Trumpeter offer an early Flak 41 and both offer the late Flak 43 variant
• Two kits that only one manufacturer offer is Trumpeter‘s 7/3 Feuerleitpanzer version, which was used specifically at Rocket sites, and Dragon offer the specific 1943 HL m11 version of the gun crew vehicle.
  Cyber Hobby did release an early Flakvierling 38 variant in 2011 but I have no idea if that differs from the Dragon boxed kit #6525 of the same name that was released in 2009.
  
  
  An early gun crew vehicle in North Africa
  
  
  The main manufacturers were Borgward (designated HL) and Krauss Maffei (designated KM). The radiator housings received their emblems on earlier vehicles.
  
  
  
  An early model Sd.Kfz 7/1 version Flakvierling 38 towing what looks like an Sd.AH 56/57
  
  
  
  One variant that is missing from this substantial range on offer is the earliest incarnation of the wooden cargo bodied (Holzpritsche) variant. These wooden bodies were first attached to the 1943 Typ HL m11 but retained the old-style metal driver’s compartment. The Holzpritche bodied vehicles were a solution to save on limited and dwindling Nazi supplies of raw materials. The first Holzpritsche vehicles built of the final m11 design were installed by the manufacturer Saurer as early as November 1943 and this is the vehicle I plan to build at some point.
  
  Both Trumpeter and Dragon only offer the final versions of the Holzpritsche which included the revised and much larger wooden cab, so to build that early version not yet offered by any manufacturer will entail a fair amount of kitbashing to find the best solution. It would be made far simpler if just one manufacturer got things right, but alas, both kits do suffer from their own inaccuracies and issues. To this end I am going to first begin by building both of these final Holzpritche versions to get an idea what will work best. Once completed I will attempt to create that early wooden loadbed/metal cab variant with the best of what both manufacturers offer.
  
  Here is a pic of that early Holzpritsche version fitted to a Typ HL m11 chassis
  
  
  
  First up is Trumpeter's 2009 release. Kit # 01507 which they simply brand as a KM m11 ‘late' version. Having already built this kit not long after I returned to the hobby, I recall it being quite a challenging build that made it a less than pleasurable experience,. So, let’s do a quick recap of the main issues to be aware of before I start.
  
  
  
  The main spoiler with this kit concerns the sprockets. First up, they look a little odd. That is because they have bevelled groves on the main face which were never present on the real thing! Trumpeter don’t even show them in their own painting guide or box art, so something was at odds! The biggest problem however, is that building them up as per the instructions means when the time comes to fit the tracks at the end of the build steps, they will not fit flush over the sprocket, hovering over them, leaving a nasty gap. The problem is that the kit’s designers omitted the important drive sprocket roller offset design. Trumpeter simply designed the rollers centrally over each track pad so the track links will never sit flush around the sprocket, making for a really dissapointing end to the build.
  The recommended surgery to remedy is not complex and TBH re-fitting of the small tabs that require removal for the modification to work are not completely necessary. The sprocket modification explanation with pics was to be found in Terry Ashley's old Perth Military modelling site but unfortunately that site is now defunct! The real sprockets were ‘handed’ so any surgery will require removing the same part from each sprocket then re-alligning the circular kit parts containing the rollers to fit the track direction. The sprockets are made up of a front and rear face and a disc shaped part containing the rollers that fits between them. This internal part is keyed so its just a matter of removing some small tabs and re-aligning before fixing them back in place. Strangely this part, if fitted incorrectly as per the instructions has the roller detail inexplicably hidden on the inner side. This can now be flipped during the re-work. As already mentioned the sprockets are handed so the offset of the rollers against each track pad needs to be 'mirrored'. Using a small run of built up track links to to test the fit allows you to position the sprocket parts in the correct position before final fixing.
  Also, if you want the sprocket face to be fully accurate those groves will need to be filled in and track pad inner fitting plate and bolt detail adding. So, for the ultimate authenticity, the scratchbuilding gloves will need to be located or an aftermarket photo etch set will need sourcing. Even better still, try and locate a 3D printed set.
  
  The second largest kit failing is the omission of the large wooden equipment rack on the loadbed. Although the equipment rack was designed to be removeable to quickly convert into a flatbed, the rack is a prominent element of this variant, so it's exclusion is a mystery. Trumpeter do offer some additional internal planking, but I've never seen any period images of it fitted. They do however offer both the tilt framework and a tilt cover for both the cab and load area, so the full 'cover up' option is the way to go if scratchbuiling the equipment rack sounds like too much work.
  
  Another distinct anomaly is the inclusion of the Flak only variant cab bench. This has an angled cut out on the passenger side which was not present on any other variant. Even if that is attended to the driver’s seat cushion detail should sit much deeper, with a cut out in the horizontal framework to accommodate them. The Panzer Tracts reference publication quite clearly illustrates the correct layout, which also shows a battery box installed instead of the two exposed batteries offered in the kit.
  
  Comparing the kit dimensionally with Panzer Tracts 22-4, the overall length is a smidgen long compared to the drawings and the profile of the front fenders is slightly out. Neither warrants the amount of work which would be required to correct IMO, so, with the major fitment issue, the missing part exposed, and a dodgy cab seating arrangement out of the way, what else can we expect?
  
  
  The kit offers only the licence plate decals seen on this factory fresh machine
  
  
  
  Even if accuracy is not a major concern to you, there is still some ‘interesting’ Trumpeter design and engineering going on, and the very odd step sequencing is worth highlighting too. The chassis is an overly complex multipart affair so rather than the nice simple, strong, and square one piece moulding that all the Dragon kits offer, all the parts will need to be diligently cleaned up and carefully aligned to avoid fit issues down the line. I'm guessing Trumpeter never embraced slide moulding technology like Dragon did! To complicate matters further, the instructions have you add some of the smallest and most fragile parts in some of the very first steps! Crazy considering the amount of handling still required! This is a kit that will produce a decent result if the effort is put in but it's a fighter and the builder really does need to plan ahead.
  
  Compared to the Dragon kits many of the mouldings in early Trumpeter Sd.Kfz.7 kits can be a little ‘chunky’ in places, and although there was no flash present in my kit there are a fair few moulding pin holes, many of which remain visible after construction. There is also a fair bit of mould offset on way too many parts, and essential seam clean-up can obliterate detail. Along with the main problems already mentioned I will try and point out any further issues as I go along.
  
  Kit content and sprue shots. They are all conveniently available to view here: http://www.trumpeter-china.com/index.php?g=home&m=product&a=show&id=1250&l=en
  
  Next up: Build time
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

 

[Sharkmouth]

Looking forward to them as I love ALL halftracks... Have you picked a subject scheme yet?

 

[Panzerwrecker]

Looking forward to them as I love ALL halftracks... Have you picked a subject scheme yet?

For the Trumpeter kit I'm going to copy the factory fresh example in plain Dunky yellow. It requires some smaller 'late' type headlights, a resin set of front wheels, and a few other visual improvements

 

[Sharkmouth]

For the Trumpeter kit I'm going to copy the factory fresh example in plain Dunky yellow. It requires some smaller 'late' type headlights, a resin set of front wheels, and a few other visual improvements

The front wheels look a lot like the ones included in the Dragon kit, for those that don't mind their DS100 (but I do as sometimes it is unstable).

@AndyFettes used them in his build but he also had trouble.

 

[Panzerwrecker]

The front wheels look a lot like the ones included in the Dragon kit, for those that don't mind their DS100 (but I do as sometimes it is unstable).

@AndyFettes used them in his build but he also had trouble.
View attachment 184653

The Trumpeter wheels are plastic but the tyres are fully DS. I didnt paint over the rubber on my original fifteen year old build, I just weathered them with pigments and it still wears them without melting any styrene. They they do look to be of better quality compared to the melting qualities of some other brands 'rubber' tyres.

The tread pattern is also authentic and no clean up is necerssary. Its just I think that some resin alternatives can look better.

The dragon 8 ton kits offer a strange 2/3rds rubber tyre with the rear portion remaining in styrene leaving a noticable gap. I have never used these on a completed build.

 

[Sharkmouth]

Its just I think that some resin alternatives can look better.

They definitely look better and allow for alternative tread types.

 

[moon puppy]

Excellent post, thanks Los!

 

[Panzerwrecker]

They definitely look better and allow for alternative tread types.

Spot on

 

[Panzerwrecker]

Lets build!

Following the instructions, we commence in step 1 with the gearbox. Once built up this is instructed to be fitted between the chassis rails. It does not actually provide any real structural rigidity as it will just dangle between just one small contact point on each chassis rail. To make life easier it is far simpler to construct the chassis components in step 2 with it left off. The flex in the chassis rails will still easily accommodate it once the chassis frame is built up. So let the assembly fully cure first then pop it in! Simples!

I would also NOT recommended adding the photo etch and plastic cab levers (parts D13, D38 and D54) until the whole chassis assembly is ready to receive the cab floor, as they are so easily damaged during handling.

Simple gearbox assembly with holes on both top and side to accept the fragile cab levers



The front axle leaf spring assembly connects with the two chassis rails and the flat tray (part WA15) at the rear. Part A41 shown in step 3 can be used to aid alignment if you wish without issue. The gearbox fits in-between, and it must sit perpendicular to the chasis frame. It’s connection points to both chassis’ rails rely on just the tiny tips of part A7. The weight of the gearbox tends to make it droop rearwards making both chassis rails in the middle bend inwards at the top! Not the best engineering solution, as the gearbox must sit at one particular horizontal plane to accept both the winch and engine shaft in later steps! The best reference for lining up the gearbox is to sight it using the two holes in the chassis rails located just behind the sprocket housings. TBH the upper middle parts of both chassis rails have way too much flex and don’t give any rigidity to the assembly until the fuel tank in step 7 is attached. There’s plenty of manhandling required beforehand so handle with care!

Orientation of the gearbox once fixed in place is important


Step 3 assembles the myriad of parts that make up the suspension pick up points. Plenty of clean-up is needed especially on parts D23 and D24 so dry fit everything before committing to placement is recommended. There are also two small pieces of photoetch to add in this step and they need to be assembled correctly as the holes in them accept the winch housing. Assembling the winch housing at this stage will allow you to test fit all is well.

Tracked wheel suspension and sprocket drive housings assembly with the PE winch housing crossbeam brackets



Fixed inside the chassis rails and progress to step 3 so far.


Step 4 builds up the engine components. I'm not displaying mine through open engine panels but this is a nice simple rendition of the HL62/64TUK. Apart from one area that needs work to ensure it fits in the chassis snugly (see below image), it only requires a few extras to produce an authentic looking lump. It can be super detailed with photo-etch sets should you wish. The area that can cause frustration when adding it to the chassis concern’s part E19. This fits into the transmission bellhousing part E36. Unfortunately, it is a little thick and although it fits inside part E36 it does NOT sit flush. What this means is that by attaching the bellhousing assembly to the back of the engine without first sanding it flush, will effectively extend the whole engine's length, and it will no longer fit on the four chassis engine mounts. As both the front mounts are separate parts it is easy to damage them whilst trying to get the engine to fit. This issue has been on all the HL62TUK engines that I have built up by Trumpeter and is an easy fix if you know in advance.




As already mentioned I will not be leaving any engine side panels off so I have just built up the basic engine as the sump is still visible on the finished model.


Step 5 adds all matter of additional chassis components and as mentioned above the two front engine mounts are separate parts. Make sure these are added well before you pop the engine on them as they are easily distorted if not fully cured. Another tip in this step is to build up the fuel tank (parts A10, A11, A42 and D59) from Step 7 BEFORE adding its chassis attachment brackets (parts D41, D42, D43 & D44) This will allow you to use it as a spacing template to ensure the tank fits inside the bracket top cut-out slots. A word of warning regarding the shackle pin parts B37. The instructions have you orientate them rearward and although they will clip into the chassis rail holes without glue, I suspect many builders will simply glue them in place. On this variant the middle cargo bed frame brackets attaches onto the chassis legs just rearward of the shackle pin locating holes, so they must be orientated forward.




Correct orientation of the chassis rail shackle pins



Some soft white stringy material is offered in the kit to replicate the winch cable. It is not ideal and too easily frays. A length of suitably sized copper cable is a much better substitute. Not all vehicles were issued with a winch and I won’t be adding any cabling to mine. I have also left off the securing bars and rods (part PE-WA17)




The chassis rear plate built in step 6 has many components and even the tiny external cable roller is unnecessarily engineered in two parts! The tow bar pintle, part A39 had huge mould offset in my kit and required a fair bit of work to look decent.





Moving on to step 7 the winch assembly is added and this is where any incorrect spacing of the two photo-etch L shaped brackets (PE-WA5 & WA6) from step 3 will become apparent. They are however easily accessible if they do need re-positioning. You are instructed to add all four leaf springs in this step. The recessed holes in the chassis for the rearmost springs B18 will likely require deepening a little with a drill. IMO, they don’t locate securely enough without doing so! Also, it is advisable to move straight on to step 8 before the leaf spring to chassis connection cures completely. This is because all the axle location brackets (Parts A3, A4 & the B35 x 2) connect to the ends of the leaf springs. Whilst the leaf springs are still pliable it is far easier to line them all up neatly. Lastly, part A22 is asking to be damaged if attached in this step. It can be safely added just before the bodywork goes on in step 17.

The instructions have you insert the engine in this step too. its not completely necessary as it can be added at any time before the bulkhead is attached in step 18. It will not however fit once both bulkhead and radiator housing are attached.



Another tip in step 8 is to leave the idler axle mounting points (parts A17, A18, A19 & A20) un-glued until you are ready to position the tracks. This way you will be in total control of the final track fitment. This will prevent an overly tight or loose fit and allow for the perfect tension you want. In fact, as the idler wheel to idler mount has such a shallow and weak connection, I found it best attaching these two parts together well before any tension might weaken the joint from fitting the tracks. You can always drill and pin them together for an even stronger bond.

Progress so far. Fuel tank and engine both test fitted so as to aid airbrushed paint to get into all those nooks and crannies.


Till next time

Los

 

[Sharkmouth]

Arrows, red text explaining points of interest, using Panzer Tracts as a primary reference... You're a better version of me! You finish your kits!

 

[Panzerwrecker]

Arrows, red text explaining points of interest, using Panzer Tracts as a primary reference... You're a better version of me! You finish your kits!

early days still! This aint a bad kit but only if you have learned from its failings. I wish Tamiya would have a bash at another one. It would cut down on all the faffing about. But where's the fun in that

 

[Panzerwrecker]

Step 9 has you build up the steering box, shaft, and steering wheel. The instructions have you attach the wheel to the shaft and then the shaft to the chassis. If you like to keep assemblies apart to aid airbrushing I would NOT recommend attaching it to the chassis just yet. You are still to add wheels and tracks, turn it upside down to add the exhaust etc, etc, so it is asking for trouble to add it in this step. If you want to keep both chassis and bodywork separate, as I did, then keep both shaft and steering wheel unfixed until the bodywork and chassis come together.

Steering box, shaft and wheel alongside the idler axle assemblies


The track wheel suspension arms (parts B29) did not need to be glued in to my chassis. They were a smooth friction fit even after ridding them of mould seams. Leaving them un-glued gives the bonus of articulating all the wheels if you wish. Mine most definitely won’t fall out so I figured no real need to fix them in place.


The front axle and steering linkages are constructed in step 10 and here you are instructed not to cement the hubs to the axle beam. Having the wheels free to steer is a nice option. However, not all the steering linkages pivot together unless you were to pin them. To have a ‘working system’ requires a whole bunch of extra work. Unlike many other kits you do at least get the option to position them in a turned position. Take note though. If you do decide to turn them, this impacts the layout of all the other steering linkages added in step 11.

The process of fitting the rotatable wheel hubs is a little tricky, as in effect you must line up the holes in both parts, D19, D20, and B45 before dropping the pin (B33) in to secure. The tolerances are way too tight, so to avoid snapping the pin whilst inserting it I would recommend opening the holes in all four parts with a micro drill, making sure the shaft of the pin (B33) is sanded smooth.

Unfortunately, once built up the hubs are extremely ‘wobbly’! If left this way, both wheels will ‘splay out’ unnaturally under the weight of the model. There are two ways of correcting this. The first is to simply glue parts D17, D20 and B45 in place once you are happy with the wheel direction, or to keep them moveable, a thin plastic card shim can be added to parts B45.





As for adding the steering linkages there is a diagram in step 11 to show how the steering box linkages connect, to both the steering box and the steering rod which connect to the driver’s side hub knuckle. This below kit instruction drawing depicts the wheels in the straight-ahead position. If you turn the wheels this obviously effects the layout. Confusingly, the construction stage drawing is shown upside down!



I opted to assemble the steering as per step 10 using the ‘old school' method of ‘squishing’ down the tops of the pins on each side of the tie rod bar (D8) with a heated blade. This then aligns them together correctly before any final fixing takes place. The steering linkage rod connection to the driver’s side hub knuckle is a strange one. The instructions in step 10 and the diagram in step 11 both show it as attached from below, but it interferes with the tie rod bar this way! Looking at the Panzer Tracts drawings below it shows that it is actually attached from above.






My wheels are turned to full lock and the linkages adjusted to suit. The steering link rod is now attached to the hub knuckle from above.


Step 12 has you connecting the track wheel pairs. This includes the two idlers. Fit on mine was not the best due to oversized internal locating tabs. They kept forcing the pairs apart. The tubular connection points do align straight so it is simpler to cut the tabs down or remove them all together. I then glued my idler wheels to their stub axles which I built up in step 8. These are engineered to slot into the back of the rearmost suspension arm plates and will be adjusted later on in the build to optimise track tension.

Depending on how you like to construct and paint the wheels will determine how you plan out adding them in step 13. I like to paint my wheels separately, but the interlocking system of wheels makes this process a bit more involved. Leaving the inner and outermost wheels pairs separate is usually the simplest option.

The sprocket housings locate onto the chassis, and part B40 on them locates into the gearbox pins behind the hole we lined the gearbox up with earlier.


Until the next update

Los

 

[moon puppy]

Excellent thread. Great write up Los, going to be very informative. I know folks will get a lot of inspiration from this.

 

[moon puppy]

Terry Ashley's old Perth Military modelling site but unfortunately that site is now defunct!

Wait..what? When did that happen? I don't get out often.

 

[Sharkmouth]

Wait..what? When did that happen? I don't get out often.

In April of this year... One man show and all paid by him! Terry is only on FacePlant now...

 

[Panzerwrecker]

Excellent thread. Great write up Los, going to be very informative. I know folks will get a lot of inspiration from this.

Thank you

 

[Panzerwrecker]

In April of this year... One man show and all paid by him! Terry is only on FacePlant now...

I found his site quite early on when I got back into the hobby and it was an invaluable source of info when it came to kit reviews, sorting out build fixes, etc. It was running for quite a while without any real updated content and I was continually finding myself referring back to it.

Sad now it is no more. He provided some great content

 

[Panzerwrecker]

Taking a break from the tedious repetitive task of cleaning up road wheels I skipped to step 16 and looked at how I could rework the incorrect cab seat layout. As mentioned in my opening post ref the incorrect bench design, they also neglect to offer a double cushioned bench seat too. The real bench layout had a smaller lowered driver’s seat framework. The back rest cushion moulding (part WA3) in the kit does come as two cushions but they are equally sized. Looking at Hilary Doyle’s scale drawings in Panzer Tracts No 22-4 below, both the bench and back cushions are of different sizes. The driver’s side is smaller, and the back cushion is also a lot thicker. In addition, the drawings show a single enclosed battery box sat against the side panel on the driver’s side and not two exposed batteries side by side like the kit offers!



You can clearly see the height difference in the seat frame metalwork to accommodate the lowered drivers cushion in the resto vehicles images below. Nice ref images of the battery box and the fuel tank too.


Modifying the bench seat

To address the cut out in the seat I utilised part WB3 to extend the panelwork, filled the void and used plastic card to replace the lip and panel top. Using the existing back cushion moulding I cut a portion off one side and re-attached it to the other. Using the PT drawings as a guide I split the one-piece seat into two and added the removed portion to the other end. As for the lowered drivers seat, I adding a lower portion to the drivers cushion with putty and then added a thin horizontal lip out of plastic card to simulate the lowered framework.

 

[moon puppy]

You've clearly done your homework on this build.

 

[Panzerwrecker]

Moving on to the external bodywork I thought it may be worthwhile at this point to mention the various modifications that occurred during its short production run. Most changes occurred due to the materials savings plan. At this point you can delete, add, change, or modify certain parts to depict a particular vehicle.

Modifications and updates to the mittlerer Zugkraftwagen 8T (Sd.Kfz.7) Holzpritsche during its production run

The first wooden cargo bodied (Holzpritsche) built on the m11 design chassis were installed by the manufacturer Saurer as early as November 1943. These were first attached to the Typ HL m11 chassis which retained the original metal driver’s cab. At about the same time the two main manufacturer's emblems were dropped from the radiator housing, as were the turn signals, side lights, and brake light. The headlights were also reduced in size and a pair of steel pins were welded to the front of the chassis frame, either side of the towing point, to allow mounting of an external starter. The track guards now cut down in length were also reduced in depth.

This vehicle has the original metal cab but now offered with a wooden cargo body. It has reduced depth track guards, external starter pins, and deleted radiator emblem, but still has the original headlights


At the beginning of 1944 the driver’s compartment was re-designed with a larger, but simplified wooden cab. This had a new full width instrument panel and new angled track guards. The open glass panel in the windscreen was dropped and at least three variations in the design of the wooden side panels were produced. These included ones with a rounded front profile, a second type had a short straight bevel and a third had a long bevel. Krauss-Maffei were unable to start there Holtzpritsche production until Feb 1944 of which, by then, they would have likely been constructed with the new cab layout.

Other modifications that are not so visibly obvious included the discontinuation of the inertia starter in 1944, The guide to access this and the cover plate were eliminated from the right front mudguard in early 1944. The final lightweight track plates were also introduced later that year.
The only changes to the cargo body were that the rifle racks were mounted onto the equipment rack rather than directly to the floor. This meant that it could be quickly converted to a smooth floored flatbed by removing both the wooden seat and equipment rack.

Factory fresh. This vehicle still retains the large headlights, has rounded side cab panel profiles, and steel pins for the external starter. There is no assembly firm emblem visible on the radiator housing. This is one of the vehicles I believe Trumpeter used in their kit research as they provide these licence plates as decals.



The first incarnation of the Holzpritsche variant that I am planning to build at some point utilised the final m11 chassis design with the shallow track guards, No 1/35 kit manufacturer yet offers this variant. Dragon did release a version in 2014 which they labelled a ‘Typ HL M11 1943 production’ in kit #6794 which did have reduced depth full length track guards. Well it didn't really! Dragon expected the modeller to reduce the existing moulding in size by slicing them along their full length. This without any template or guide marks! I have built this kit and it was not a simple task.

Here is a great reference drawing of that m11 chassis with original metal cab and Holzpritsche cargo body. Interesting to note is that no shackle pins appear to be fitted!

This Trumpeter kit only provides the radiator housing with manufacturer emblem, the large headlights and has the access cover plate for the inertia starter on the right front mudguard. Both are easy to remove if you wish to show a later built vehicle. Kubelwagen headlights make for decent sized alternatives. The kit does not provide the steel pins for the external starter either side of the front towing point, so you might wish to add these. There is no driver's sun visor on the windscreen in the box either! The three large circular rivets at the bottom of each front mudguard/fender should not have a bolt head detail on! These look like a restoration anomaly, so simply remove the bolt detail.

As for the kit's cargo body, there are a few too many errors and omissions here too. The PT drawings and period images show a cut out at the top of the rear tailgate. This was to accommodate tailgate lowering whilst towing. The kit part does not include this detail. It also doesn't include the rear steps on the interior of the same part either! Both of these ommisions should be easy enough to re-work and add. Later models had the rifle racks located onto the wooden equipment rack, but Trumpeter doesn't even provide the rack!. However, the lower rifle butt locating rings are moulded to the floor, so it looks like they are offering an early cargo bodied floor instead, Cheers Trumpy! A more puzzling decision is to provide a combination of PE framing and styrene planking to fit on the cargo bed floor instead. I have yet to see any period Sd.Kfz Holzpritsche vehicle images or drawings with this design.

Scale drawing showing the deleted manufacturer emblem on the radiator housing, pins for the external starter, small headlights, windscreen sun visor, and the tailgate cut out and steps. It also shows the lightweight track link design introduced at the end of 1944.


The equipment rack had locating pins that attached to the cargo body by way of sockets in the floor. They were, as was the rear wooden bench, locked in place by blocks attached to the inside of the folding sides panels. The kit does not provide this detail. The pins would not be visible once fitted but the blocks would be. It shouldn't be too much effort to scratch them from plastic card. Likewise, the sockets in the floor are not drilled out on the kit floor moulding, so would be visible if you built a flatbed version.

Research appears almost non-existent when it came to designing the cargo body wooden crew bench. Trumpeter (as do Dragon) offer two benches sat opposite each other, when in fact, the actual bench sat across the width of the whole floor with the seats facing back-to-back.

The crew bench sits across the bed (approx inside the red rectangle)


Lastly, the kit's instructions have you place the spare wheel (without any means of securing it) on the flat panel, underneath the cargo body floor at the rear of the chassis, when the scale drawings, and many period images show it stored in the tool compartment in front of the equipment rack. (see drawing above)

Scale drawings of both the equipment rack and cargo seat layout can be found in Panzer Tracts No 22-4 if you wish to scratch build them.

The UK Crompton collection 8T Holzpritsche. You can clearly see the rear crew bench seat layout.


Nice pic of the cab instrument panel layout on the same vehicle


Next up, wheels & sprockets
Los