mustang1989
Well-known member
Man......you make this stuff look aaaaaaaaaaalllll too easy Paddy!!
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All Righty ... What's on the bench today?
- Thread starter panzerace007
- Start date
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Looking good Paddy!
Duke Maddog
Well-known member
LOL! I love the comparison of the two engines! Way to go! Keep them coming Paddy, you rock!
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
While this isn't "on the bench" it does have to do with plastic and polishing. Also I am sure that a number of folks also have the "Yellow crud" headlights on their older cars.
These are the headlights on my '07 Toyota Corolla. They have been cursed with the "Yellow crud" for a while now. As daylight saving time is ending next weekend, I decided to improve my lighting so I can see and blast the idiots that are driving with their bright high beams again.
Alas, I didn't even think about taking a photo till after I had started the sanding procedure, but most folks on here know the process.
Now back to your regular programming after this public service announcement.
These are the headlights on my '07 Toyota Corolla. They have been cursed with the "Yellow crud" for a while now. As daylight saving time is ending next weekend, I decided to improve my lighting so I can see and blast the idiots that are driving with their bright high beams again.
Alas, I didn't even think about taking a photo till after I had started the sanding procedure, but most folks on here know the process.
Now back to your regular programming after this public service announcement.
paddy
Well-known member
You can come and do my van anytime Paul 
I cut the hole out too big for the radio compartment/ Camera compartment and then pinged the main PE shelf for said compartment out of my tweezers, never to be seen again...........so filled the hole in the side and thought, sod it
Cutting the flaps away has left me with some tidying up to do on the trailing edge at the wing root...
I cut the hole out too big for the radio compartment/ Camera compartment and then pinged the main PE shelf for said compartment out of my tweezers, never to be seen again...........so filled the hole in the side and thought, sod it
Cutting the flaps away has left me with some tidying up to do on the trailing edge at the wing root...
And now you got the hole plugged, the part will show up.
On the bench today as i type ,
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Had a mainspring barrel launch at work last week over my shoulder as I was removing the mainspring. It showed up today. Had another good part that I used in place though things like that are always a pain.
@paddy it only probably took me a couple of hours to do the headlights and it was well worth the effort now that I have brighter lights driving home in the dark. The wet sanding was easy, as I just had to keep slopping more water on while sanding. The 400 got rid of the yellow oxidized crud. The 600 smoothed the finish from the 400 down, and the 1500 smoothed it where it polished real easy with the fine foam wheel on the polisher while using Novus 2 plastic polish.
@paddy it only probably took me a couple of hours to do the headlights and it was well worth the effort now that I have brighter lights driving home in the dark. The wet sanding was easy, as I just had to keep slopping more water on while sanding. The 400 got rid of the yellow oxidized crud. The 600 smoothed the finish from the 400 down, and the 1500 smoothed it where it polished real easy with the fine foam wheel on the polisher while using Novus 2 plastic polish.
sharkman
Master at Arms
As an aside, I couldn't resist cleaning this thing up. It was built fairly well. I was able to gently "break" the starboard wing off as well and set it in a bath of SupercCean. This stuff takes paint off like no ones business!
Anyway, it cleaned up well so far, I'll need a bigger bath to fit the rear half of the fuselage in.
Already trying to source some new props, exhausts and decals for it!
Anyway, it cleaned up well so far, I'll need a bigger bath to fit the rear half of the fuselage in.
Already trying to source some new props, exhausts and decals for it!
paddy
Well-known member
Eduards Spitfire MkIX
Well its not on the bench any more
the spitfire has been wheeled back into its hanger and abandoned. I was finally beaten by the flaps....
I dont know where i went wrong but the flaps are bigger than the cut out and i canty enlarge the cut out as its already up against the airfilter housing
You can see the smaller flap which is the part that drops is right for the cut out but the static part is much wider. You cant slide it between the wings as its 3D once the ribs are standing up, you cant trim the flap for the same reason...
Its obviously a mistake on my parts but i cant see quite where i have gone so wrong ?
This coupled with the hole i cut in the fuselage for the camera/radio hatch being way to big because they mark on the inside where to cut but those marks are much bigger than the panel line on the outside...Doh.. and so the resin cover doesn't fit...
I think its time to know when you are beaten
Well its not on the bench any more
the spitfire has been wheeled back into its hanger and abandoned. I was finally beaten by the flaps....
I dont know where i went wrong but the flaps are bigger than the cut out and i canty enlarge the cut out as its already up against the airfilter housing
You can see the smaller flap which is the part that drops is right for the cut out but the static part is much wider. You cant slide it between the wings as its 3D once the ribs are standing up, you cant trim the flap for the same reason...
Its obviously a mistake on my parts but i cant see quite where i have gone so wrong ?
This coupled with the hole i cut in the fuselage for the camera/radio hatch being way to big because they mark on the inside where to cut but those marks are much bigger than the panel line on the outside...Doh.. and so the resin cover doesn't fit...
I think its time to know when you are beaten
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
My guess is that the upper part that goes in the top part fits up further into the wing. I would suspect that it also might work better if the upper part of the wing were a bit thinner. As you have the wing assembled all of that would be quite a bit more difficult though I am sure it could be done. If there is a will there IS a way.
Sorry to hear you are giving up on it.
Sorry to hear you are giving up on it.
paddy
Well-known member
I have a set of overtrees for this Spitfire so its not a total give up, more a bit of a re think
Mean while to take my mind off this failure i made 60 turn buckles ion the style of the old Bobs buckle.
Now i need to find a way of cutting the brass tube without closing the ends up....
Mean while to take my mind off this failure i made 60 turn buckles ion the style of the old Bobs buckle.
Now i need to find a way of cutting the brass tube without closing the ends up....
sharkman
Master at Arms
How deep are your pockets Paddy??
I can attest that one of these would work great!
www.buehler.com
Seriously though, maybe something like a Dremel?
I can attest that one of these would work great!
IsoMet Low Speed Precision Cutter - Buehler - Metallography Equipment & Supplies for Sample Preparation
IsoMet Low Speed Precision Cutter precision sectioning saw designed for cutting various types of material with minimal deformation by using gravity fed force.
www.buehler.com
Seriously though, maybe something like a Dremel?
"Request a quote" translate to "If you have to ask, you can't afford".How deep are your pockets Paddy??
I can attest that one of these would work great!
IsoMet Low Speed Precision Cutter - Buehler - Metallography Equipment & Supplies for Sample Preparation
IsoMet Low Speed Precision Cutter precision sectioning saw designed for cutting various types of material with minimal deformation by using gravity fed force.
Seriously though, maybe something like a Dremel?
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I would suggest get yourself a jeweler's saw and an assortment of fine saw blades for it. I have some blades for mine that are only .18mm wide with a VERY fine tooth pitch. I use that saw all the time. It is what I used to cut and modify the interior on the Ju87A. Takes a little getting used to, but in a short while it will be your go to rather than just cutting with a sharp knife.
This saw frame and some blades are available on Amazon.
Amazon Grobet
I use this a lot to cut brass tubing, plastic tubing, rod, parts all kinds of things.
I like this saw frame the best as it is possible to remove the thumbscrews and the backing screw on the other side and switch sides with them. I don't know why they all have the screws on the left side of the frames as they get in the way when cutting right handed.
This frame as also deep so you can work it around most of the parts you will be cutting. Not as cheap as many out there, but it is the best I have found for a reasonable price.
I also use this a lot when cutting canopies from the sprues. If you cut them loose with a cutter the clear plastic tends to shatter at that point rather than cut. So, I use this to cut the part loose and I don't get that damage.
If you want to cut a large hole in the middle of a part, drill a small hole, release the blade from one end of the saw, run it through the hole, and reset into the end. Note the saw has to be adjusted so there is some tension on the blade and a little care has to be taken so as to not put the blade in a bind and pop it. It happens though thus you buy more blades. I usually use the finest blades 5/0 or 6/0. With practice I don't pop many of them anymore, but it still happens sometimes due to metal fatigue on the blade.
If you have any questions ask away.
This saw frame and some blades are available on Amazon.
Amazon Grobet
I use this a lot to cut brass tubing, plastic tubing, rod, parts all kinds of things.
I like this saw frame the best as it is possible to remove the thumbscrews and the backing screw on the other side and switch sides with them. I don't know why they all have the screws on the left side of the frames as they get in the way when cutting right handed.
This frame as also deep so you can work it around most of the parts you will be cutting. Not as cheap as many out there, but it is the best I have found for a reasonable price.
I also use this a lot when cutting canopies from the sprues. If you cut them loose with a cutter the clear plastic tends to shatter at that point rather than cut. So, I use this to cut the part loose and I don't get that damage.
If you want to cut a large hole in the middle of a part, drill a small hole, release the blade from one end of the saw, run it through the hole, and reset into the end. Note the saw has to be adjusted so there is some tension on the blade and a little care has to be taken so as to not put the blade in a bind and pop it. It happens though thus you buy more blades. I usually use the finest blades 5/0 or 6/0. With practice I don't pop many of them anymore, but it still happens sometimes due to metal fatigue on the blade.
If you have any questions ask away.
Paulw
Well-known member
Tamiya 32
paddy
Well-known member
Thanks for the ideas, i think i need something precision as i need about 100 bits of 0.5mm tube x 3mm long
Its a shame because Albion alloys used to sell cut to length but don't seem to do it any more
On another topic we now have an engine fitted having saved the mess with a few over trees that were minimal cost
Its a shame because Albion alloys used to sell cut to length but don't seem to do it any more
On another topic we now have an engine fitted having saved the mess with a few over trees that were minimal cost