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Airfix P-40 Oiled up

I do have a dremel but I don't think my hand is light enough to buff it out. I think I can buff it better by hand and a tee shirt.
 
moon puppy said:
I do have a dremel but I don't think my hand is light enough to buff it out. I think I can buff it better by hand and a tee shirt.
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Yo Bob this is plum-neat! I have the Harbor Freight alternative to the Dremel and you are welcome to borrow it - I would think that it plus a buffing wheel would work best, but if the shirt method don'e work, or if you wanna try it, lemme know!

BB
 
Thanks guys, having fun with it.
If anyone wants to try this here's a warning. Don't smear paint all over then work it. Start with a small bit of paint, oil goes a long way. I noticed the more I worked it I started seeing buildup on the brush and surface. I wiped down half the wing and then hit it with the dry mop, got much better results, closer to what Plasmo got in his video.
 
Keep working it,
You can do this.
It is a learning curve for sure.
Frank
:fencing
 
I wouldn't use one of the vari speed Dremels. For the most part they run too fast even at slow. The only way I use my ancient Dremel is with the separate Dremel speed control. It will make it slow WAAAY down.

Then you would need a LARGE "SOFT" buff and it would tend to remove anything on any raised surface detail.

Your hand polishing idea is probably the best way to handle the polishing aspect Bob! I have lots of polishing experience what with polishing and refinishing watch cases and bracelets.
 
Heavens Eagle said:
I wouldn't use one of the vari speed Dremels. For the most part they run too fast even at slow. The only way I use my ancient Dremel is with the separate Dremel speed control. It will make it slow WAAAY down.

Then you would need a LARGE "SOFT" buff and it would tend to remove anything on any raised surface detail.

Your hand polishing idea is probably the best way to handle the polishing aspect Bob! I have lots of polishing experience what with polishing and refinishing watch cases and bracelets.
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul, not even sure a buff is needed now, Since I reduced the amount of oil on the surface it's behaving nicely to the mop.
 
Hey Bob, on a side note, you remember the paints I have for doing a review? There were 5 colors and a bottle of thinner. The zinc yellow chromate turned to cottage cheese. I talked with the guy Saturday after sending and e-mail and that particular batch all turned bad. Something weird with the gallon of chemical he started with. He said that it appears there was some kind of reaction that caused it to set up, either a mess up with the starter gallon or a reaction to the pigment that he added. :hmmm I had already thought that was the case when I noticed it. Every one of that particular color set up in the bottles. He is offering a free bottle of another color to anyone that purchased one at the Nats, or a replacement when he figures out what caused it to polymerize and can make another batch of that color.
 
Heavens Eagle said:
Hey Bob, on a side note, you remember the paints I have for doing a review? There were 5 colors and a bottle of thinner. The zinc yellow chromate turned to cottage cheese. I talked with the guy Saturday after sending and e-mail and that particular batch all turned bad. Something weird with the gallon of chemical he started with. He said that it appears there was some kind of reaction that caused it to set up, either a mess up with the starter gallon or a reaction to the pigment that he added. :hmmm I had already thought that was the case when I noticed it. Every one of that particular color set up in the bottles. He is offering a free bottle of another color to anyone that purchased one at the Nats, or a replacement when he figures out what caused it to polymerize and can make another batch of that color.
Click to expand...

Yikes! I emailed him the other day but haven't got a reply back. Is he going to send what he gave you for review again?
 
h2b68ff8.jpg

I'm diggin this. OK I could be using acrylics and have a base coat in by now but mixing the oils will give me a lot more variance in the OD. I'm going to let this cure out and try the next steps.

Think I'll get some more of those mop brushes, could come in handy for other applications.
 
I am really digging that OD color. What was your mix ratio or did you just eyeball it?

Looks like you got a nice smooth surface now. Nice work
 
thanks John, I gotta stop touching it! :rotf

Mix is a dab of Black and a dab of Yellow Ocher, blend till it looks like OD. (y)
 
It's fun, for those who don't have an airbrush or can't use an airbrush it's a great alternative. You, or should I say, I, couldn't get this finish with Acrylics.

Let's see what the next steps bring. Hope that I don't activate the oils when I start washing or doing the other effects.
 
From the Artsie side of the room, NEVER PUT ACRYLICS OVER OILS. Having said that, as a figure painter I have used acrylics for small details like buttons, piping and insignia without problems.

Applying acrylics over oils can lead to a couple of problems. First problem, the acrylics could bead up on the surface and not cover properly. This can be especially true for diluted acrylics like washes. Second problem, different curing/drying times of the two mediums. Oils, depending upon colour and thickness, can take 6 months to 2 years to properly cure. Even though they can be touch dry in a few days, sealing it with an acrylic does not stop the curing process. As the oil continues to cure it can shrink and cause the acrylic surface to crack. The cracking may not occur during the display life of a model, but you never know.

My $0.02 worth.

Cheers,
Rich
 
Thanks Rich, makes sense about the acrylic beading up. Oil and water don't mix. Guess it's a blending process then.
 
Yep, checked the video again, Plasmo said at about 5:30 in the video "once the oil paint dries out...." then something I couldn't make out because of the accent. :rotf

So i'll see ya on this thread in about 2 weeks! :rotf
 
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