AB terminology.

[ausf]

Watching the Paul Budzik videos, he's always mentioning 'overspray' when talking about paint delivery.

I always thought of overspray as what ends up on my hand, the bench and anything that happens to be behind what I'm painting. The way he uses the term, it seems to mean something different.

He mentions not getting overspray on flat areas, in crevices, etc. but in his videos, he's using more paint than I ever do. Yes he's using laquer and if I painted that wet with acrylic, I'd muck it up big time.

Trust me, I'm not criticizing him in the least bit, his results speak for themselves and I'm nowhere near his league of ability.

I'm just curious if I'm missing a fundamental thing here. I usually dust a few light coats of 50/50 Vallejo poly primer in one sitting, then put on the least amount of color I can that covers. Hit that with Future, decals, Future always worried about losing surface detail.

He appears to use more material on the primer coat than I do on the whole build, and keeps warning about overspray on the model. In my opinion, he is flooding the surface with paint, and his stuff looks amazing when done.

So, what gives?

 

[jknaus]

I think I am in the same boat as you. Not sure. He does sound like he's responsive to questions though.
Too bad he uses lacquers. I cant any more. Causes my skin to crawl.
James

 

[Swordsman]

Don't really know but if I watch the video I might be able to say that the lawyer paint may just look wetter, and does evaporate, more, also a bit self leveling .... :hmmm

 

[phantom II]

I am not a paint expert by any means but I have watched his videos and have been trying to learn to airbrush correctly.

I have picked up on several things both on video and on my own.

When laying down primer, he is often building up layers because he will come back and polish them before the next layers. Lacquers lend themselves well to this . Tamiya primer rattle cans are lacquer by the way.

It is not possible to get a nice finish coat over a pebbly or orange peel undercoat .

Secondly , it is easier to spray a larger pattern if you have the proper nozzle for the job . The right nozzle concentrates the paint in the correct area without splattering all around the spray cone .


Third, diluting your paint to the right consistency will allow your paint to flow properly through the nozzle rather than being forced through it. ( reducing overspray )

The above step will also enable you to lower your spraying pressure so that you don't spray blobs of paint two feet past your target area .

Using flow improvers and retarders will improve how your paint lays down and make it easier to get a wet coat.

You will always have some overspray . The key is to try to limit the amount of it and be aware of where it is going.

Hope this helps some . Cheers, Christian B)

 

[Heavens Eagle]

From the days when I worked on cars and helped a buddy in his body shop, the overspray that Paul is talking about is the paint that sprays out around the edges of the spray area. These paint particles become airborne, dry a little and then settle and stick to the surface of previously painted area. This is what will tend to give that pebbely surface and mess things up.

I know a guy that when he sprays the base laquer (black) coat for a NMF, goes over it with a light spray of thinner. This levels it out and takes care of the tiny surface defects from the color spray.

 

[phantom II]

From the days when I worked on cars and helped a buddy in his body shop, the overspray that Paul is talking about is the paint that sprays out around the edges of the spray area. These paint particles become airborne, dry a little and then settle and stick to the surface of previously painted area. This is what will tend to give that pebbely surface and mess things up.

I know a guy that when he sprays the base laquer (black) coat for a NMF, goes over it with a light spray of thinner. This levels it out and takes care of the tiny surface defects from the color spray.

That just mirrored the idea of spaying Windex on top of a coat of Future to gloss it even more .

You also just quoted something that makes me think of using the correct size nozzle ( maybe ) for the area to be painted. :hmmm

The really nice Lacquer paint jobs were always hand rubbed between coats . That's why they are so glossy .

 

[moon puppy]

Watching the Paul Budzik videos, he's always mentioning 'overspray' when talking about paint delivery.

I always thought of overspray as what ends up on my hand, the bench and anything that happens to be behind what I'm painting. The way he uses the term, it seems to mean something different.

He mentions not getting overspray on flat areas, in crevices, etc. but in his videos, he's using more paint than I ever do. Yes he's using laquer and if I painted that wet with acrylic, I'd muck it up big time.

Trust me, I'm not criticizing him in the least bit, his results speak for themselves and I'm nowhere near his league of ability.

I'm just curious if I'm missing a fundamental thing here. I usually dust a few light coats of 50/50 Vallejo poly primer in one sitting, then put on the least amount of color I can that covers. Hit that with Future, decals, Future always worried about losing surface detail.

He appears to use more material on the primer coat than I do on the whole build, and keeps warning about overspray on the model. In my opinion, he is flooding the surface with paint, and his stuff looks amazing when done.

So, what gives?

I just watched the video and realize how badly I spray paint.

But I think in this case the "Overspray" he's talking about here is the amount of paint that falls out of the spray pattern. Say you have a round pattern where the wet paint is sprayed but you have a varying spray of paint outside that patter that is drying quicker than what's in the pattern. This is what causes the chalky surface we sometimes see (I often see it).

How to correct it is with the airpressure, I think.

 

[ausf]

That all makes sense now. I'll take a closer look at the air cap next time.

I thought about a larger AB when he first put out those videos, but they get pricey just to blast primer.

I've been using Iwatas for a long time, the largest being a HP-BC2, which isn't going to spray a wide pattern at all, but I've been covering 1/16 armor that way. I have been choosing which brush to grab based on the color capacity, whether I'm spraying a lot of one color or a little of many different.

I have a single action Badger I bought for the kids to learn on, I usually only use it to shoot glue and pigments, but maybe I'll clean it up and see if it sprays a wide pattern better.

I should really invest more time in learning the ins and outs. I more or less just try to duplicate good results, then leave it as is instead of getting the most out of it. I rarely change any settings until I have a problem.

 

[phantom II]

Watching the Paul Budzik videos, he's always mentioning 'overspray' when talking about paint delivery.

I always thought of overspray as what ends up on my hand, the bench and anything that happens to be behind what I'm painting. The way he uses the term, it seems to mean something different.

He mentions not getting overspray on flat areas, in crevices, etc. but in his videos, he's using more paint than I ever do. Yes he's using laquer and if I painted that wet with acrylic, I'd muck it up big time.

Trust me, I'm not criticizing him in the least bit, his results speak for themselves and I'm nowhere near his league of ability.

I'm just curious if I'm missing a fundamental thing here. I usually dust a few light coats of 50/50 Vallejo poly primer in one sitting, then put on the least amount of color I can that covers. Hit that with Future, decals, Future always worried about losing surface detail.

He appears to use more material on the primer coat than I do on the whole build, and keeps warning about overspray on the model. In my opinion, he is flooding the surface with paint, and his stuff looks amazing when done.

So, what gives?

I just watched the video and realize how badly I spray paint.

But I think in this case the "Overspray" he's talking about here is the amount of paint that falls out of the spray pattern. Say you have a round pattern where the wet paint is sprayed but you have a varying spray of paint outside that patter that is drying quicker than what's in the pattern. This is what causes the chalky surface we sometimes see (I often see it).

How to correct it is with the airpressure, I think.

That's a good quote on overspray Bob .

Your paint thinning and air pressure will also affect it . A dirty AB. will not help either.

The airbrushes he mentions are very pricey ( the reason I don't have one ) but you have to think about this also.

You say it's just a primer coat but as I stated earlier , without a poor primer coat will never yield a beautiful paint finish.

Cheers, Christian B)

 

[jknaus]

Thats why I bought that Passche brush. I havent tried the fan air cap yet though.

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00JUPUIR6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

James

 

[phantom II]

Thats why I bought that Passche brush. I havent tried the fan air cap yet though.

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00JUPUIR6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

James

James, let me know what you discover with that AB

I really would like that pistol grip Iwata but the cheapskate part of me can't let go of the money :S

Cheer, Christian B)

 

[ausf]

I really would like that pistol grip Iwata but the cheapskate part of me can't let go of the money :S

Same here. I keep trying to justify it, 'maybe I can use it on stuff around the house', but I can't come up with any uses where a rattle can of Rusto wouldn't do.

 

[moon puppy]

Well you could mix that custom color of Rusto and knock it out in one shot. Just trying to help...:tomato

 

[ausf]

Well you could mix that custom color of Rusto and knock it out in one shot. Just trying to help...:tomato

Ya know, you're right!

Chicago Airbrush here I come!

 

[phantom II]

Paul does respond to emails

and I just found his newest airbrushing video . It answers some questions that we all seem to have at one time or another .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2QPqwDV2ys

Cheers/ Christian B)

 

[phantom II]

Paul does respond to emails

and I just found his newest airbrushing video . It answers some questions that we all seem to have at one time or another .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2QPqwDV2ys

Cheers/ Christian B)

Am I really the only one that's not going to sleep through this informative video ?????? Always some many airbrush questions out there :idonno

:skipper

 

[moon puppy]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2QPqwDV2ys

Nope, checked it out on the other thread Chris. I only thought I knew how to spray paint.

 

[phantom II]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2QPqwDV2ys

Nope, checked it out on the other thread Chris. I only thought I knew how to spray paint.

He also demonstrate how to clean that very delicate and small nozzle as well . Something that builders often ask/argue about .

 

[moon puppy]

What's the other high volume brush he talked about? I see the Iwata G3, retails over $400...so like er...

 

[phantom II]

Emailed you a picture . So much easier than trying to post it to this webb site