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WNW Sopwith Camel F.1 USAS

I found the best way was to rig the top or bottom wing first then attach the two and rig the other. Not one wing top and the other side bottom rigged but the turn buckles fitted in top and bottom before joining

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Most British stuff is a pain as its double rigged ie 2 lines to each run
 
When you get the hang of it ...heres one to try that really gets the brain working, if a spider can do it ..... :) this is a DH4
Nice! I'll see how this one goes before I step up for another. If I do, though, I'm considering E.W. Springs' other fighter, his RAF 85 Squadron S.E.5, "Mint Julip."
 
I have some real nightmare planes in the stash for rigging. A Taube which is like a flying sail ship, then a Gotha bomber and a Felix Stowe.

When I did the rigging on my 1/48th Albatros I put some small holes where the lines were going to go. Glued in the ends in the top wing then with it in a jig I clipped them to a length and glued them into holes in the bottom wing. They all turned out just fine, but then I have some super extra fine tweezers to hold the line and place the ends. I personally don't really want to use any elastic line as the elastic goes away over time.
 
I guess it's really about time that I update this thread. I admit that I'm a really slow builder, and this project seems even slower than many since I spend about as much time trying to figure out what and how to do things as I do actually doing them. LOL!

At any rate, I've finally finished up the fuselage except for some more weathering (particularly on the bottom) after the bottom wing and landing gear get added to it.

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I really like this shot because it shows just how the fuselage colors can look radically different just because of the angle of the light on them. The rear fuselage from the cockpit back, sides and top, is the same color. However, just like the photos of the actual aircraft, in most lighting it looks like two entirely different colors - a much darker one on the sides and a lighter one on the top.

I did use a slightly darker shade of this on the birch plywood and aluminum panels around the engine and cockpit because there seems to be another difference in how these smooth, hard surface areas reflectively contrast with the doped linen areas. There also seems to be a large difference in the sheen, where these areas seem to be semi- to gloss and the doped linen areas seem much duller. Any hoo... just my take on it.

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I'm still tidying up some of the control cables for the tail. I broke off the elevator horn on the still loose cable and I'm still waiting for it to dry in these photos. The rigging is a combination of #2 lb. monofilament fishing line and elastic EZ Line. The ferrules were cut from .5 mm diameter nickel-silver Albion tubing. All pretty standard materials and techniques, I think.

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I used the kit decals for everything except the rudder. That was just simpler to mask and paint. It was conveniently 18 mm wide and I just happened to have a role of 6 mm wide Tamiya tape. "Serendipity," as the lizard on TV says...

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The cockpit interior, of course, is much more difficult to see, but if you do bother to shine a light into it, it's surprising how much can be seen.

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Examples of the Camel that had the field-expedient cut-away decking around the Vickers MG receivers would naturally show more of the instrument panel. Unfortunately (for me...) the USAS plane I'm building wasn't so modified.

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One of the details missing from the WNW kit are the lines running from the pitot tubes to the airspeed indicator. My references suggest that these were made of white rubber tubing. According to a Windsock pub that I have, the WNW's kit designer made a deliberate decision to leave these off the cabane strut because they would have just been a blobby and indistinct shape because of the limitations of the molding process.

I made mine from .3 mm dia. lead wire and replicated the clips holding them in place with tiny bits of Bare Metal Foil. I went back over them with artist matt medium as an adhesive to reinforce the strength of the little drops of CA glue used to hold the tubes in position and the adhesive on the back of the Bare Metal Foil (the bits are so small that there's almost no surface to them for their self-adhesive).

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The fuselage framing on the bottom showing through the clear doped linen (CDL) was just painted on using Tamiya flat earth before I sprayed Deck Tan for the CDL color. There's a lot more weathering to do here. Apparently the total oil loss system used on the rotary engines made an absolute mess of the bottom of the aircraft. Basically, these engines have no oil sump such as is found on most other engines, so castor oil (water-soluble and which would not dissolve in the fuel) was injected into the carbureted air-fuel mixture to provide cylinder lubrication and to lubricate the inside of the crankcase (remember - no oil sump for the connecting rods, etc. to splash around in). Most of this oil was not actually burned with the fuel and was exhausted straight into the air from the cylinder heads as they rotated around to near bottom dead center. All this exhaust gas and castor oil then just flowed along the bottom of the fuselage...

Interestingly enough, when castor beans and castor oil are burned, they release the poison ricin, so pilots of rotary engined aircraft often experienced horrible headaches from the fumes.

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And that's all, folks!

Happy modeling!
 
Beautiful modeling.

It used to be the bane of aircraft painters to get the colors the same on dope vs metal surfaces. In the US in the 60's we used butyrate dope for the fabric and enamels or lacquers for the metal. The colors were nearly impossible to match from the two different types of finish materials. With modern synthetic fabric covering materials and urethane finishes that is no longer the case.
 
Beautiful modeling.

It used to be the bane of aircraft painters to get the colors the same on dope vs metal surfaces. In the US in the 60's we used butyrate dope for the fabric and enamels or lacquers for the metal. The colors were nearly impossible to match from the two different types of finish materials. With modern synthetic fabric covering materials and urethane finishes that is no longer the case.
Thanks, John! It's been fun and interesting to see if I could do something different than my usual AFV-overall dead flat finish. I do understand the idea and process a lot better now, and I'm sure I could do this again but much more efficiently. Still, lots more to do, so it's way too soon to sit back thinking I've got it all figured out! LOL!

That's the biggest challenge on these builds.

You're nailin' it Mike, looking forward to see it in Columbia this year. :notworthy
Indeed, the challenge is what keeps 'em interesting! If our show actually goes off, I'll have it there for sure. Thanks for the props!
 
So, a small update. I've cleaned up the upper and lower wing and aileron parts. The leading edges have a very subtle scalloping molded into them and the trailing edges are delicate and thin. It took some care and patience to clean up the mold seams while not damaging these areas.

The ailerons have three very small hinge details that provide their only attachment points to the wings. These replicate the prototype hinges and leave a small prototype gap between the forward edge of the aileron and the rear edge of the wing. I added a couple of small pins to each aileron made from 28 gage brass wire. The pins are lined up with the molded on hinge details and fit into holes drilled in the rear edges of the wings. All very "standard" stuff. The ailerons are still unglued in these photos since they will be decaled separately. It's also necessary to carry the roundel colors down into the top, wedge-shaped gaps between the ailerons and the wings.

Finally, I pre-drilled all of the holes needed for the rigging eyelets (to be added after decaling). Next up is to gloss coat in prep for the decals.

Not a lot to say about the painting. Again, the basic PC-10 and CDL colors were the same mixes used on the fuselage and tail. The masking for the rib tapes was done with 1.5 mm wide vinyl pinstriping tape. These were reverse masked after painting the rib tape colors. The main color was then sprayed over the masks. Peel the masks off, and the contrasting color remains. Probably the most tedious part of the process was masking the forward edges of the wings where the PC-10 wraps around and under the bottom for a couple of scale inches. (There seems to have been a number of small variations on this painting detail - how far back along the wingtips it went and how wide it actually was. However, there seems to be general agreement that this wrap around was pretty much the standard.)

Still some weathering left to do, but that will have to wait for the decals and their clear top coats. There's also some detail painting needed on the insides of the control cable inspection ports and other small spots (like the aileron hinges, etc.).

Oh well, not too exciting, but it's all gotta get done...


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So, Camel wings "Part Duex," or "Camel wings, just like Buffalo wings, only better!" LOL!

Not much to say here. The decals have been applied, the details painted, and the rigging eyelets added. I have given the wings an overall coat of Tamiya semi-gloss clear to even out the sheen and make it easier to see what I'm doing with the colors.

I guess I'll point out the aileron pully and cable inspection ports which are molded into the wings. WNW provides clear parts for their covers, to be installed later. The bracing wires in the center upper wing section are Infini Models elastic thread glued with CA into "blind" holes drilled into the sides of the opening. This large opening is a field modification done on some planes to improve the pilot's upwards vision. The kit includes the factory standard wing section, too. Decal options determine which to use.

I did have some difficulty with the roundel decals. The white ink used on them was quite thick and resisted every type of decal solvent that I used on them. In the end, they cracked and split along the edges of the wings and ailerons where the decals are supposed to fold over into the gap. (I even tried cutting one into two parts and added each separately. The edges of the cut simply chipped and cracked creating the same kind of problem only with two decals instead of one...). I also had some decal lifting along a few spots over the rib tape details. Oh well, you do get the good with the bad, sometimes... On a positive note, the white portions of the decals are indeed totally opaque! LOL!

So, onward and upward!


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