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Tell me something..

moon puppy

Administrator
Staff member
or maybe this should be...Ask those questions you are afraid to ask because you think you should know.

1. Why do we have to let Future cure for 24 hours when it's made to be walked on in 15 minutes??

2. Is there something about Tamyia paints that make them unfriendly to dry brushing?

there was a couple more but I can't think of them right now.
 
The longer you let future cure the harder it gets. Tamiya paints tend to ball up when you dry brush. I add a little white oil paint to it and then it brushes fine.

Terry B)
 
i also find tamiyas paints difficult to brush, they must have changed something because the old ones i have is ok to brush.
I live in europe so i don't know if we have future here but is there something similar that i can buy and what is the advantage of using it?
 
i also find tamiyas paints difficult to brush, they must have changed something because the old ones i have is ok to brush.
I live in europe so i don't know if we have future here but is there something similar that i can buy and what is the advantage of using
it?

Well,there is no Future available in Europe.[Remember the punkers in the 80's who claimed that they had NO FUTURE ]:D
But seriously,Future is like a good alternative for a gloss coat,you get a strong gloss layer perfect to use your washes on.
Don't know about Belgium but here[the Netherlands] you can get Pledge Parket Plus as a alternative in supermarkets for FUTURE floor wax.

Tamiya acrylic paints are hard to drybrush,but Tamiya ENAMEL paints are very good to drybrush!
I don't know if you still can get the Tamiya ENAMEL paints in Europe,...I have some of them in my stash from several years back,
have to check them if they are still workable.

Greetings,Ron.

ps;you can use Glassex window cleaner or a similar window/glass cleaner for a thinner for the Pledge Parket Plus.
 
Ron I know that in the UK Future is Klear...

Terry, that's exactly what happened. So no I'm hooked on Tamyia but I got to get something else in the same colors just to dry brush???

Still can't figure out what the other obvious questions were.
 
Ron I know that in the UK Future is Klear...

Terry, that's exactly what happened. So no I'm hooked on Tamyia but I got to get something else in the same colors just to dry brush???

Still can't figure out what the other obvious questions were.

Bob Ir.

Just my old fashioned opinion, but I have never found a substitute for Humbrol when it comes to drybrushing. None! I have never been a fan of Tamiya paint. Love their kits, but won't use their paint. You will find three brands of paint in my workshop. Humbrol, Vallejo and Testors only for airbrushing. Of course I use Winsor Newton oils for weathering vehicles, buildings and diorama objects. I also use it for flesh on figures and simulating wood.

With Humbrol, don't shake the tin, take a small tool, I use a mini screwdriver, and push it to the bottom of the tin and pull out some of the thick stuff, put it on a pallet, then use Artist's rectified turpentine to slightly thin it. IMO, no paint on earth can match that for drybrushing! If you take your time, nobody will ever know your model is drybrushed. It will be shaded and blended and look perfectly natural. You will also need a high quality sable brush, preferably a Filbert. See below.

brushes-1.jpg


I believe that drybrushing fell out of favor a few years back because so many were doing it wrong and definitely with the wrong paints. I have never been able to get another brand to work. They have always turned out harsh, streaked, looked obviously drybrushed or rough and coarse. Verlinden was the best drybrushing modeler I have ever known. When he finished, it looked like a master with the airbrush had painted it, only better. Flawless! He was a devout user of Humbrol and artist's rectified turps! So is Pruneau and many others. Don't forget, ONLY artist's rectified turpentine, no other medium will work. It is available at artist supply stores.

BTW, I have never used Future in my life! I never found a need for it?

Bob
 
Terry, that's exactly what happened. So no I'm hooked on Tamyia but I got to get something else in the same colors just to dry brush???

Maybe give Terry's tip a go;add a bit white oil paint to the Tamiya Acrylic,...drybrushing is normaly a bit paler then the base coat is anyway.

Never did it also,but if Terry used it that way,...why not give it a try.:popcorn

Or give Bob SR. Humbrol paint a try[I also like Humbrol]
 
good stuff Dad, thanks. I don't think I have ever seen a tin of Humbrol, i'll start sourcing it out. (y)
 
rectified turpentine I have never heard of that,..wow ,..something new everyday (y)

Humbrol paints are superb, little Bob, I brought all of mine back from UK last time and fully intent to use them once the emporium is back up and running !
 
I truly agree on the Humbrols being really cool for dry brushing. They also last nearly forever without drying in the tin if you close it properly.

Bob, the Humbrols are in stock at John's hobbies in Gastonia...

Cheers, Christian B)
 
I truly agree on the Humbrols being really cool for dry brushing. They also last nearly forever without drying in the tin if you close it properly.

Bob, the Humbrols are in stock at John's hobbies in Gastonia...

Cheers, Christian B)

We're not sure how old they are, but I don't think it matters with Humbrol! :idonno John's also stocks Model Colors by Vallejo!! :drinks
 
I recently opened a tin of Humbrol that had never been opened. I bought it when I was building the Winds of War back in the 70s! It was like new! I don't think that unopened tins of Humbrol have a shelf life!

Bob
 
Dad this was the same shop I got the Rectified Turpentine, we're already working out a date for road trip.
 
I agree with Bob totally :notworthy , Humbrol paints are best for drybrush because they contain excellent pigments.

I use Klear (Uk version of Future). I've calculated the surface is dry for about 4 hours maximum (in the summer time aprox 2h), but I always leave it overnight before placing the decals.


All the best!
Dusan.
 
Ok...what are rectified turps?

Gotta agree also on the Humbrols, great paint, just wish the tinlets were a little more user freindly.

Moonpuppy- My local Hobbytown USA has a full rack of Hombrols, you might try there if you have one in town.

Tom
 
Shelf life for Humbrols is the same as atomic particles if unopened. I have some that like Bob have been around since the 70's . Probably better than the new ones. :soldier
 
Shelf life .... I have an Old tin of Humbrol - It says Monogram at the top & Humbrol in small letters below. It's Gun Metal & I've had it for easily 26 years ! :woohoo: I've used it off & on. recently I used it to dry brush these Elephant trax !! It's awesome Stuff .... for Dry brushing .. I may have to look into sourcing some ... No one sells it here in Richmond V.A. .....

BoB !! I've been dry brushing for about 28 years now !!! Francois turned Me onto it ( even though We have never met) I love th effect. A lot of guys in My AMPS chapter joke on th fact of Dry Brushing :sick: It's a lost art !!! I agree BoB ! I think th reason it fell out of favor is because No one knew how to do it effectively !!

Tamiya drybrushing - I've never really had too bad a time with Dry Brushing Tamiya. :eek:hmy: Honest. I would just do it a little bit at a time , so th paint wouldn't dry out. Take a look at some of My Panzers I've posted. They've all been dry brushed with Tamiya. It just takes a while. ... Now I have recently Fallen in Love with Vallejo !! I use that now to Dry Brush a lot !! OF course I don't have nearly the Paint Stash I need so I'm trying to add colors a little bit every couple of weeks !

MOONIE - Another color to seek out - Unbleached Titanium ( Oil Paint) it's a light beige color. It Rox for washing interiors . Dry brushing wear on Olive Drab vehicles , even Dunkel German Panzers !!! Just remember to lay a drop out on some corrugated cardboard to "wick" away th lint seed Oil - Doing this Kills th Sheen .... which is a lot different than Charlie Sheen .. entirely !! :woohoo:

Future - should be allowed to dry for 24 hours - especially when adding decals & Micro sol over the decal to get it to lay down - it will "craze" the Future ( white & cloudy) - That's all I use it for. I actually apply washes with no coating down , but I wash & weather mostly with Oil & I just dab on th Turpenoid over th whole panel to avoid th Halo effect , unless I'm doing a fuel stain. That's where I want th Halo effect.

DRY BRUSHING - No School ... like The Old School !!! (y) :ro:
 
Anyone who would argue with or even question Bob Letterman about modeling is out of his ever lovin' mind! Thanks for pointing out the Humbrols for dry brushing, Bob, that's really the ticket! Very easy and looks great!! :notworthy :notworthy
 
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