Ron I know that in the UK Future is Klear...
Terry, that's exactly what happened. So no I'm hooked on Tamyia but I got to get something else in the same colors just to dry brush???
Still can't figure out what the other obvious questions were.
Bob Ir.
Just my old fashioned opinion, but I have never found a substitute for Humbrol when it comes to drybrushing. None! I have never been a fan of Tamiya paint. Love their kits, but won't use their paint. You will find three brands of paint in my workshop. Humbrol, Vallejo and Testors only for airbrushing. Of course I use Winsor Newton oils for weathering vehicles, buildings and diorama objects. I also use it for flesh on figures and simulating wood.
With Humbrol, don't shake the tin, take a small tool, I use a mini screwdriver, and push it to the bottom of the tin and pull out some of the thick stuff, put it on a pallet, then use Artist's rectified turpentine to slightly thin it. IMO, no paint on earth can match that for drybrushing! If you take your time, nobody will ever know your model
is drybrushed. It will be shaded and blended and look perfectly natural. You will also need a high quality sable brush, preferably a Filbert. See below.
I believe that drybrushing fell out of favor a few years back because so many were doing it wrong and definitely with the wrong paints. I have never been able to get another brand to work. They have always turned out harsh, streaked, looked obviously drybrushed or rough and coarse. Verlinden was the best drybrushing modeler I have ever known. When he finished, it looked like a master with the airbrush had painted it, only better. Flawless! He was a devout user of Humbrol and artist's rectified turps! So is Pruneau and many others. Don't forget, ONLY artist's rectified turpentine, no other medium will work. It is available at artist supply stores.
BTW, I have never used Future in my life! I never found a need for it?
Bob