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Tamiya P-38

Big10

Well-known member
Time for a break from Mustangs for a bit. Gonna take a crack at Tamiya's P-38. I ended up using their decals for the IP panel that did not turn out too bad.

I also removed what is the prop, mixture, throttle quadrant and replaced with my own doing. Took some small diameter brass rod and smashed flat, them trim to fit. Added knobs with glue build up on the ends and painted.
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IP's with stock decals applied. Not too shabby, Eduard Look IP would be a great improvement.
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Throttle quadrant stock look before I removed the levers.
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Flatend brass rod
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Looks better
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It has been a while since I have built a Tamiya kit, I only wish they would add rivet detail like Eduard does.
 
My tail booms were both slightly twisted counter clockwise about 5 degrees. Not sure if it was a warp problem, and early production problem or what. It was a bit of a challenge to correct. As fine as the booms are I suspect it is something that can happen even during assembly. That is about the only negative I ever had with my build.
 
My tail booms were both slightly twisted counter clockwise about 5 degrees. Not sure if it was a warp problem, and early production problem or what. It was a bit of a challenge to correct. As fine as the booms are I suspect it is something that can happen even during assembly. That is about the only negative I ever had with my build.
I will be on the lookout.
 
Oh! One other thing, TRIPPLE CHECK your horizontal stabilizer BEFORE GLUING! In fact I would place it and make sure to test the rudder installs BEFORE gluing.
It can be installed upside down, the access ports should go on the underside. I installed mine with the leading edge matching up with the fillets on the booms and it was too far back. This caused some problems with installing the rudders. Test fit that beast and associated parts before gluing. That is the one thing I have seen messed up with more builds.

The part does fit, it is just such that things can be misaligned and then bite you. That was the biggest problem I had with my build and part of why it got set aside for a while.
 
The Cameo is a really useful tool. Took Paul's plans and imported into the Cameo software. I saw a guy on facebook use his in this manner and Thought I would try the same.

Trace the plans with the software to make a mask.
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Cut mask and apply
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The vinyl that I am using is ridged enough to give me a guide to run the riveter
tool.

It is also great to trace the supply mask and make your own
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Thanks again Paul for your help. Now to do the wings and booms.
 
I have never fully riveted a plane before and I must say this is tedious stuff.
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This is for the lower outer wings,design and cut into vinyl.
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I use transfer tape to place on model and trace the cut lines.
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Your rivet patterns look real good Big10!
I use a sharpened HB lead drafting pencil and draw the lines in place. Then run the rivet wheel over the lines by hand. For me it works well.

No matter how you do it, the process is still quite tedious.
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Your rivet patterns look real good Big10!
I use a sharpened HB lead drafting pencil and draw the lines in place. Then run the rivet wheel over the lines by hand. For me it works well.

No matter how you do it, the process is still quite tedious.

I may do that with the top. The biggest problem is getting all the vinyl to stay in place and closely match the other side.
 
With the pencil pattern it is possible to see how well the pattern looks directly before making the rivets. The pencil lead I use is very soft (you don't want to imprint the line in the plastic) I also made a bunch of straightedges from some .015 clear sheet to use when making the lines, about 1/2 inch wide and various lengths to fit between raised areas.
 
Wait, I missed something. Where did the film with rivets come from?
I did something similar with a 109 a couple of years ago. Can't remember who made it.
 
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