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T-28

My question is why would they even over-engineer the kit tracks to that extent ? All of their German DS tracks have the teeth molded on,why the difference here,what skills does attaching hundreds of teeth develop.Something like that isn't challenging,it just kills the fun.
 
jknaus said:
The big problem is the hand going numb holding the tweezers and the neck going hunched over. I'll give it another go in a while. Right now the tediousness has soured me to the kit. It goes together well and is a cool kit, but feeling as I do about it at this moment I'd just wreck it. So in a few weeks when I get enthused I'll start again and see what happens.
James
Click to expand...

OK, from looking at the box art and pictures those look like standard tracks on any various US vehicle, just doubled up. Does Friul or someone make a set that can be used with the horns already in place?
 
I just finished my T28. I have come to the conclusion I hate the following:
Bogies
Individual guide horns
OD paint
and kits made up of sprues from half a dozen other kits.

There is a lot of left overs on this kit. As to the guide horns, I used a curved blade scalpel and just ran down the line cutting them off the sprue. Then I poured some tamiya glue in a small shot glass. I brushed it on the track about 5-6 at a time, then picked up the guide horn, touched it to the glue in the glass, then put them on the tracks. Took about 2 hours for all 8 track sections. However, if you plan on putting the outer tracks in place permanently...you really only need horns on the bottom. The top will never be seen.

Another thing, dont glue the "mounts" for the outer tracks onto the main hull/fenders until the outer tracks are taped in place. And for the hull mounts, you will need to cut the tab off of the bottom. If not, it locates it just over the edge, causing a horrible gap with the outer tracks.
 
Viper_MP said:
I just finished my T28. I have come to the conclusion I hate the following:
Bogies
Individual guide horns
OD paint
and kits made up of sprues from half a dozen other kits.

There is a lot of left overs on this kit. As to the guide horns, I used a curved blade scalpel and just ran down the line cutting them off the sprue. Then I poured some tamiya glue in a small shot glass. I brushed it on the track about 5-6 at a time, then picked up the guide horn, touched it to the glue in the glass, then put them on the tracks. Took about 2 hours for all 8 track sections. However, if you plan on putting the outer tracks in place permanently...you really only need horns on the bottom. The top will never be seen.

Another thing, dont glue the "mounts" for the outer tracks onto the main hull/fenders until the outer tracks are taped in place. And for the hull mounts, you will need to cut the tab off of the bottom. If not, it locates it just over the edge, causing a horrible gap with the outer tracks.
Click to expand...

I looked at the box and thought about it. Will really ahve to pull it out and finish. Not sure I understand the last sentance. Can you show it on the instructions or tell me the step? Thanks in advance. Also gtot any pics of the completed beast? Would love to see it.
James
 
Yep. In step 3, you put the mounts on the inner fenders. Parts B13. In step 8&9 it has you put the mounting brackets on the hull. Parts C8, B2, B14, B1 & B1, B14, B2, C9. For step 3, there is no locating mount on the inner fender, but there is one for the corresponding part on the outer fender. So to locate part B13 correctly, you have the have the outer fender in place. For steps 8&9, the parts are located correctly, but they will stick out past the edge of the hull about 1mm. This will cause about a 1-2mm gap between the hull and the outer fender. I sanded off the locating nub on the bottom of the parts, then waited until the outer fender was in place before I put the mounts on the hull. It made for a much better fit and look.

Other issues I found were that you have to use some heavy CA glue to reinforce the mount for the barrel. Otherwise, it will point at the ground in a few days. When putting the outer fenders on...use tamiya tape to hold the top in nice and tight, and then run one from the bottom of the side skirts under to the hull. That will keep it straight. And in Step 11, LOL. Its all jacked up. Part D22 actually has to be cut into three pieces if you want to go with the towed track option. I didnt. Last, the outriggers should technically go on the same side. I used a bit of the tow cable on them. Oh, and there are no mounts for the tow cables. they just go where ever.
 
Pics. [just a couple since my server seems to be down]

T28tank8_zpsc5fcc20c.jpg

T28tank9_zpsacf26da5.jpg
 
Don't mean to butt in here, but Rob your "28" looks really good. You should post up some more pic's.

Terry (y)
 
Awesome, will check those steps. Some are too late. To do a towed sponson would require a lot of scratching from whaqt I understand so I'm not doing that option. Love the paint job on yours. Looks awesome. I think I should pull mine bqck out and start again.
James
 
MrT said:
Don't mean to butt in here, but Rob your "28" looks really good. You should post up some more pic's.

Terry (y)
Click to expand...

Thanks Terry. As soon as my server is working again, I'll get some more for you guys.

James, its a beast of a kit. I ended up having to remove some pieces and go back and redo them. It is the ONLY t28 I will EVER do.
 
Mike, now that my shop has recovered from whatever hurricane/tornado/model bomb had gone off, I have been modeling a lot. I'll get pics up soon. Aside from the T28...I built a car!
 
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