• Modelers Alliance has updated the forum software on our website. We have migrated all post, content and user accounts but we could not migrate the passwords.
    This requires that you manually reset your password.
    Please click here, http://modelersalliance.org/forums/login to go to logon page and use the "Forgot your Password" option.

Revell FW-190- A8 "Sturmbock" 1/32

_DSC9383_01.JPG


This .3mm wire, its a possibility but could it be thicker ????
 
i dont know bob ? having built a 3D print eduard engine on the P38 and this resin engine on the FW-190 the detail etc is streets ahead in resin.
3D will improve but at the moment whats available from Eduard in 3D is more user friendly but with detail up you want the better detail which is resin. All IMHO .
 
i dont know bob ? having built a 3D print eduard engine on the P38 and this resin engine on the FW-190 the detail etc is streets ahead in resin.
3D will improve but at the moment whats available from Eduard in 3D is more user friendly but with detail up you want the better detail which is resin. All IMHO .
I'm running into issues with my pickup, self inflected for sure. In this case these ignition rings where the wires come out should be plentiful as they were very common with all the radial engines during this time.
 
So this is the result using 0.3mm tinned copper wire (that i half inched from my old place of work before i left ) its used in windings , rheostats etc

_DSC9394.JPG


Really please with this, its the first time i have tried to wire a radial and learned a lot. Next time i would go a little shorter on the wires and i have some .5mm tube, .3mm bore that if i could cut it to about 2mm length i could slide it on to make the exit gland from the ignition wire ring.
 
I let myself down a bit with my recent builds so i'm trying a bit harder :) I have just been looking at the kit engine, not sure if i want to build it up or not. Its pretty basic but i suppose it would be good to compare ..
 
I just noticed there are a few larger rivet on the fuselage but nothing on the wings ?

Do you thing they just left therm off or do you think they wouldn't shoe in this scale anyway ? I have never added rivets EEEEEK !

_DSC9407.JPG
_DSC9409.JPG
 
Starting to get expensive now :) As someone who doesnt normally build axis stuff i realised that i dont have any correct colour paints.
German colours are awkward because they are all RLM numbers which dont tell you anything about the colour :)
To make matters worse , MRP colours have a similar number code system so If you want RLM 76 its MRP 66 and RLM 75 is MRP 65 and so on which is confusing....light drab is much easier :) Anyway its £5 a bottle and hard as hell to find in the UK, there is only one stockist and he never has any stock because he sells out with his back orders by the time he get a delivery.

I need to find a scheme for this build ? i have looked at the mottling on the sides and see that each squadron had their own variation and some no mottling at all, just a fade from top grey to bottom blue. Until i even decide what panels to leave on/off i cant really decide on a scheme ie a Yellow nose would be great but if you dont leave the panels on....it will not show :)

Does anyone know the rules behind the a German cross with or without the white centre cross ie just 4 black opposed right angles ?
 
@paddy, do you have a scheme selected? If so, then I can help about the colors and I would recommend masks as it gives you the most flexibility on the Balkenkreuz (the cross).
 
6692952_orig.jpg



I did something like this once, don't have to worry about colors you don't have.
 
i have masks for the insignia thanks Saul, its just camo and colours. I will probably make something up based on some pics as i,m not going to loose sleep over accuracy on things like this.

img0051.jpg



This looks ok but more green than black/brown. I ordered RLM 75/ 76/ 82 and 70 for starters
 
Back
Top