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Revell FW-190- A8 "Sturmbock" 1/32
- Thread starter paddy
- Start date
You'd think in this age of 3d printing we could get better wiring harnesses and connectors.
Fair representation I'd say.
paddy
Well-known member
i dont know bob ? having built a 3D print eduard engine on the P38 and this resin engine on the FW-190 the detail etc is streets ahead in resin.
3D will improve but at the moment whats available from Eduard in 3D is more user friendly but with detail up you want the better detail which is resin. All IMHO .
3D will improve but at the moment whats available from Eduard in 3D is more user friendly but with detail up you want the better detail which is resin. All IMHO .
I'm running into issues with my pickup, self inflected for sure. In this case these ignition rings where the wires come out should be plentiful as they were very common with all the radial engines during this time.
Rhino
Super Moderator
It looks the part. Not that I ever worked on a BMW aircraft engine.
paddy
Well-known member
So this is the result using 0.3mm tinned copper wire (that i half inched from my old place of work before i left ) its used in windings , rheostats etc
Really please with this, its the first time i have tried to wire a radial and learned a lot. Next time i would go a little shorter on the wires and i have some .5mm tube, .3mm bore that if i could cut it to about 2mm length i could slide it on to make the exit gland from the ignition wire ring.
Really please with this, its the first time i have tried to wire a radial and learned a lot. Next time i would go a little shorter on the wires and i have some .5mm tube, .3mm bore that if i could cut it to about 2mm length i could slide it on to make the exit gland from the ignition wire ring.
Super work Paddy!!
The way that panel sticks out, is it supposed to be bolt on armor?
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Yes it is bolt on armor. This aircraft had extra armor so it could attack bombers and keep the pilot alive.
paddy
Well-known member
Starting to get expensive now 
As someone who doesnt normally build axis stuff i realised that i dont have any correct colour paints.
German colours are awkward because they are all RLM numbers which dont tell you anything about the colour
To make matters worse , MRP colours have a similar number code system so If you want RLM 76 its MRP 66 and RLM 75 is MRP 65 and so on which is confusing....light drab is much easier Anyway its £5 a bottle and hard as hell to find in the UK, there is only one stockist and he never has any stock because he sells out with his back orders by the time he get a delivery.
I need to find a scheme for this build ? i have looked at the mottling on the sides and see that each squadron had their own variation and some no mottling at all, just a fade from top grey to bottom blue. Until i even decide what panels to leave on/off i cant really decide on a scheme ie a Yellow nose would be great but if you dont leave the panels on....it will not show
Does anyone know the rules behind the a German cross with or without the white centre cross ie just 4 black opposed right angles ?
As someone who doesnt normally build axis stuff i realised that i dont have any correct colour paints.German colours are awkward because they are all RLM numbers which dont tell you anything about the colour
To make matters worse , MRP colours have a similar number code system so If you want RLM 76 its MRP 66 and RLM 75 is MRP 65 and so on which is confusing....light drab is much easier
Anyway its £5 a bottle and hard as hell to find in the UK, there is only one stockist and he never has any stock because he sells out with his back orders by the time he get a delivery.I need to find a scheme for this build ? i have looked at the mottling on the sides and see that each squadron had their own variation and some no mottling at all, just a fade from top grey to bottom blue. Until i even decide what panels to leave on/off i cant really decide on a scheme ie a Yellow nose would be great but if you dont leave the panels on....it will not show
Does anyone know the rules behind the a German cross with or without the white centre cross ie just 4 black opposed right angles ?
Captured FW 190s
FW 190 A-5 A single FW 190 A-5 was supplied to Japan for evaluation in 1943. Although the type was not put into production by the Japanese, it received the Allied code-name 'Fred'.
www.nevingtonwarmuseum.com
I did something like this once, don't have to worry about colors you don't have.
paddy
Well-known member
i have masks for the insignia thanks Saul, its just camo and colours. I will probably make something up based on some pics as i,m not going to loose sleep over accuracy on things like this.
This looks ok but more green than black/brown. I ordered RLM 75/ 76/ 82 and 70 for starters
This looks ok but more green than black/brown. I ordered RLM 75/ 76/ 82 and 70 for starters
