Oh, I do love naked models!
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Revell 1/144 HMCS Snowberry
- Thread starter paddy
- Start date
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
I used the Pontos PE on my 1/72 U505 and it was well worth the trouble. They do a lot of sets for various ship kits and it adds that fine edge that looks better on large kits. 
paddy
Well-known member
above just an interesting link
paddy
Well-known member
Anyway, Queens aside.....
6 sheets of PE approx 8" x 4.5"
assorted turned brass fittings, depth charges and gun barrels , also wooden deck and some rigging line not shown
And where i am now, This is the last chance to finish this as a large kayak before it becomes a small ship
First job now is to fit the portholes. These are not listed in the instructions and the finished Portus model doesnt show them but there are 50 on the PE sheet.
I am going to follow closely the You tube build as to be honest, i know no better and he has fitted the portholes.
6 sheets of PE approx 8" x 4.5"
assorted turned brass fittings, depth charges and gun barrels , also wooden deck and some rigging line not shown
And where i am now, This is the last chance to finish this as a large kayak before it becomes a small ship
First job now is to fit the portholes. These are not listed in the instructions and the finished Portus model doesnt show them but there are 50 on the PE sheet.
I am going to follow closely the You tube build as to be honest, i know no better and he has fitted the portholes.
Looks like a worthy challenge. 
paddy
Well-known member
I wonder what the difference is between painting something black and then shading areas white to leave black panel lines.....and painting black panel lines and then over shading in white ? I have seen people do both on this ship. I am leaning towards all black as the hull and decks are black anyway.
paddy
Well-known member
Experimenting today, decided to buy a new soldering iron as the adjustable temp rheostat broke in the old one.
This one has a built in temp control, adjustable to within 5c and heats up in 10 seconds to 350c.
And this is my first ever attempt at soldering PE
Pretty pleased with that and with practice it will get better.
I will solder the main structures and glue the add ons i expect
This one has a built in temp control, adjustable to within 5c and heats up in 10 seconds to 350c.
And this is my first ever attempt at soldering PE
Pretty pleased with that and with practice it will get better.
I will solder the main structures and glue the add ons i expect
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Not sure if you know this, use flux on the joints to be soldered, only a very small amount is needed. Then with a very small amount of wet solder on the iron, run it along the joint and pre-tin the edge. Do this on all edges to be soldered. Then you can place the parts together and align them and tack the joint. Then connect the tacks with small tacks, or on a small joint simply run the iron along the outside edge. The trick is to have a "small" wet droplet on the iron to transfer the heat. Then you will end up with a nice magic join.
On larger or odd shaped connections tacking the parts is what will work the best.
Here is a joint I did on the SdKfz222 build that stalled.
Good luck on this. Also a lighter can be used to heat larger parts. Set things up mount it where it is flat over an open space and gently heat it from underneath. That also works well, it just needs some pre-thought and planning.
On larger or odd shaped connections tacking the parts is what will work the best.
Here is a joint I did on the SdKfz222 build that stalled.
Good luck on this. Also a lighter can be used to heat larger parts. Set things up mount it where it is flat over an open space and gently heat it from underneath. That also works well, it just needs some pre-thought and planning.
centaur567
Well-known member
It right next to the bucket of prop wash. Gary S.
