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Raised lettering

R

Rudi Richardson

Member
Evening all,

Does anyone who produces raised/textured lettering other than Archer (set AR88007 Surface Details 7 Casting symbols)? I can't think of any model companies doing these and none of the craft stores (read scrapbooking etc) I allowed myself to be subjected to this weekend keep anything similar (well, in that size anyway).

TIA

Rudi
 
Aber makes 1.5mm and 1mm Letters and numbers in Photo Etch. I picked them up here. Scroll down to "Aber Specialty Items".

Item numbers
AB35R02
AB35R03
 
If you can find them Plastruct also makes a couple diffrent sizes of letters and numbers sets. I found some at a railroad shop a couple of years ago. If they are the correct size, you could at the least order them from Plastruct direct. But if you have a hobby shop that carries Plastruct pieces, if they don't already have them they might be able to order them for you.

http://plastruct.com/Pages/OnlineCatalogDetail.lasso?GraphicKey=PABT-2


If you do order them, make sure that you ask for the plastic letters and not the vinyl.

HTH.

Gary B)
 
Aside from Aber (PE), Archer (printed resin), and Plastruct (polystyrene or vinyl) already mentioned, there are PE sets from LionRoar, KMC, and plastic sets from Slater's...

I also keep sprue tags and runners where the manufacturers place their item/product numbers.

I used this method, along with wire, for these models MANY years ago:

1f7c.jpg


ba6b.jpg


c865.jpg


d57d.jpg


72ed.jpg


I hope this helps,
 
Thanks for the info, gents! :)

In case you were wondering why I need them, I want to add the following text to Tamiya German 200Lt Fuel Drums (I know I could just order the replacement PE lids and bottoms, but I'll get more use from a sheet of letters ;) )

kraftstoff_7_20100117_1421610376.jpg


Thanks again

Rudi
 
Actually, rubbing metal foil over the PE item and gluing the foil to sheet plastic in place of the kit parts is the most frugal. If you want to know how cheaply things can be done, ask a certified cheapskate!

Regards,
 
wow that tip sounds interesting sharkey!! i just wanted to add i just ordered a set from royal model that is etched as well B)
 
sharkmouth wrote:
Actually, rubbing metal foil over the PE item and gluing the foil to sheet plastic in place of the kit parts is the most frugal. If you want to know how cheaply things can be done, ask a certified cheapskate!

Regards,
Click to expand...

Great tip! Thanks Saul! I was concerned that perhaps the Archer set didn't have sufficient letters, but using your technique I'll be making letters till the cows come home, as me old mum likes to say (don't tell her I called her old :laugh: )

Rudi
 
Rudi,

I would not recommend the tip on Archer's Dry Transfers as they are made with a soft resin. I successfully use the technique with plastic kit parts and PE.

Regards,
 
The tin foil over the photo etched parts works well, but they will be very delicate. You can easily turn them over and reinforce them with a little CA flowed on the back,filling the now indented lettering and numbers.
In the real old days we used thinned down 5 minute epoxy (quite easy to do with lacquer thinner) to reinforce these tin (aluminum foil rubbing's)--- old days meaning pre-CA days.

You can also double up the foil for added strength, simply by doing your first rubbing, then brushing on the thinned down 5 minute epoxy, then applying another layer of foil, and rubbing or burnishing down the second layer, and waiting for the epoxy to cure. After it's cured, cuticle scissors work a treat for trimming.

This rubbing will work on either one of the newest plastic tops, or on one of the various photo-etched parts.
 
A company by the name of Slaters makes letter and number sets in a similar vein to Archer.I have not used their products personally but they seem to be recommended in a few publications and I have been meaning to get some.

As for the tin foil cheapskates .... PHEW... I can see I am in esteemed company on that one. Rubbings of mudflap photoetch make great floormats.
 
Some great tips there guys ...thanks.
I have used Slaters numbers in the past as well as slicing numbers of the sprue.

Ian.
 
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