• Modelers Alliance has updated the forum software on our website. We have migrated all post, content and user accounts but we could not migrate the passwords.
    This requires that you manually reset your password.
    Please click here, http://modelersalliance.org/forums/login to go to logon page and use the "Forgot your Password" option.

Painting armour

Working on my M120 Achilles which has an open turret so exposed 75mm shells in racks.
Any one got a good colour mix for brass ?
 
searching the net i have found a suggestion of chrome alclad under Tamiya clear yellow. I will give that a try :)
 
Why not just Vallejo Brass? I think they have several shades. Interesting idea about the Tamiya/Alclad combo.
 
Its not a make you see in the UK although it does appear to be on Amazon. Mig do a brass but i remember humbrol brass years ago which never really looked like brass so a bit wary of buying ready mix.
 
Here is the best M4A1 DV Sherman on the market...though a little hard to find...see below
sorry about the link not working :bm:
 
Last edited:
This is the experiment
This is alclad chrome and Tamiya clear yellow on an a bit of what was green spru.
The problem is the Tamiya paint activates the alclad . Its very nearly there but it not quite what i am looking for. Its probably cheaper to buy the proper stuff than mix alclad, clean the gun then use Tamiya and clean the gun so i ordered a bottle of Mig Brass, kits only £2.00 about $2.5
I will try that and report back :)
DSC_1913.JPG
 
Alclad comes in a bunch of different colors Paddy. I know there is a gold color which is close enough to brass for most government work. Then there are the Alclad clear colors which might work better over the base color.
 
Something to note about your Sherman M4A1 in the earlier post is the WHITE counter-shading under the nose and on the hull sides behind the suspension. The disruptor color has been variously identified as either black or the original OD. These tanks have three-color camouflage, not two.

I personally fall on the side of black as the disruptor color since the addition of the white counter-shading suggests to me that the goal was the strongest contrast possible and that a lot of effort was to be spent on doing the camo. Why settle for the OD when black would give an even stronger contrast - assuming that black was available. But, that's just my take...
 
Well i dont often give up on something but the MIG brass paint is a shocker As far as i am concerned.
For a start its metallic and brass is not metallic. Custom cars are painted metallic :)
I have worked with brass all my employed life and it does not glitter and sparkle.
Secondly i originally tried to use a mat white Tamiya as an under coat and the paint went on evenly then seperated like it was on an oily surface.

DSC_1918.JPG


You can see here as it dried the white is showing through in patches, very starnge

So next i stripped the shells back to bare plastic and gave them a coat of MIG's own acrylic under coat this time in grey...

DSC_1919.JPG


this time again the paint went on evenly but as it dried it separated out again. I have never experienced anything like this before so its back to silver undercoat and clear yellow, i will avoid Alclad as i have some good silver in tamiya which should be fine.

We live and learn :)
 
Last edited:
AMMO by Mig paints are notorious for requiring a thorough shaking prior to application. Shake it until your arm falls off and then shake it with the other hand. :mpup
They also should be applied in very thin coats.
 
Thanks Mike, i think you must be right because i cant see what else it could be although i thought i gave them a good shake, certainly the little ball was doing its job.
 
hmmm. well i shook the bottle for 25mins during the news tonight. Its marginally better but to be honest its so thin even un thinned that its transparent. I have tried three coat with a brush and i can still see the under coat through it. I think it might improve with a matt coat. I have a sheet of brass PE for this kit on the bench and MIG brass is never going to be that colour but it might look less glittery with some mat lacquer.

Watch this space :)
 
I use Vallejo with no issues.
There's also a brass bass I use along with a patina solution, can't think of the name right now. Got it at one of the craft shops. You have to apply the brass pretty thick as it does tend to bead up, guess a good base would help but I haven't experimented which primer works best. I'll dig the name up today.
 
Thanks Mike, i dont think there is enough pigment in the Brass to cover black.
I ended up with mig grey primer Tamiya silver, Tamiya clear yellow, then Mig Brass then a tamiya flat coat...
Bit of a bodge really but this is how i learn :)
DSC_1923.JPG


I suppose i am lucky in that i dont have to use them as they could have just fired all their ammo :)
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

RichB
P-38J "MISS ANN" VIII Fighter Command Night Intruder Trials Detachment
2 3
Replies
43
Views
759
centaur567
centaur567
Duke Maddog
One reason I've been gone for so long...
Replies
15
Views
576
Duke Maddog
Duke Maddog
paddy
Italeri Alfa 2300 FINISHED
4 5 6
Replies
118
Views
5K
MrT
MrT
Brokeneagle
UPDATING AN OLD DIORAMA BASE - lessons in rubble updated 18th Dec completed
Replies
12
Views
1K
Brokeneagle
Brokeneagle
Brokeneagle
THINGS ABOUT 3' s (July 26th Update)
4 5 6
Replies
117
Views
7K
moon puppy
moon puppy
Back
Top