My First Fruilmodel Tracks...So what do I do with them??

[errains]

Getting ready to start working this track set. I understand the basics but I'm interested in hearing what you all do with them.

Like do you blacken them or just paint them, assemble them first then blacken/paint or leave them seperate, use the wire in the kit or use something better??
I'd like to hear ya'lls advice and suggestions.

 

[Iron Mike]

I chase all the holes with the appropriate drill bit, assemble, then blacken. I like to use .020" brass wire instead of the supplied wire, I think it's easier to use and will blacken along with the tracks. If you use CA on the ends of the pins, you'll have to touch up the shiny spots. Good luck!

 

[moon puppy]

I generally get the .5 rod instead of that wire, assemble then blacken it. I probably do it wrong anyway.

 

[Iron Mike]

Friulmodel Track Assembly

The Tools: What's in the box: There are two packs of links because, BUT NOT ALWAYS, there are left and right sides so DON'T go and dump both bags into one big pile. OK Here We Go: Most everyone uses the supplied wire or brass rod to put the links together but I use dress or sequin pins on...

modelersalliance.org

Timeless advice from Uncle Tony.

 

[jeaton01]

I'm piggybacking on this one, have some Fruils on the way for the M74. Total newbie here, tankwise. What chemical is used for the blackening? Oh well, I can wait until Eric reports!

 

[Paulw]

Just build more airplanes...

 

[Iron Mike]

This has been my weapon of choice lately.

Friul burnishing

Friul Tracks weathering on a chemical base. Use Uschi van der Rosten´s burnishing agent to achieve stunning and realistic effects.

www.uschivdr.com

Available from several sources.

 

[Iron Mike]

Tony also told me about Novacan for blackening tracks.

Novacan Black Patina for Solder: Power Soldering Accessories: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Novacan Black Patina for Solder: Power Soldering Accessories: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

I haven't tried it yet, so I can't say much. Tony has never steered me wrong though.

 

[jeaton01]

It's just that I need some targets, Paul!

 

[errains]

Kool Thanks Everyone!!

So it looks like I assemble first...I'll get started on that then!

 

[Skinny_Mike]

I generally make a cutting jig for the supplied wire using a plastic tube and a plastic block glued to one end. The tube is usually slightly shorter then the length pin I need for the tracks because my wire cutters are not flush cut. It takes a few tries to get the tube length correct. Once the jig is sorted, I slide the end of the wire in and snip off the length, repeating for the couple hundred pieces I need. Once all the pins are cut, I start assembling the tracks in groups of ten links. The smaller 10 link runs are a little easier to manipulate then the 90+ link full run. After that I assemble the groups. I usually use a set of small needle nose pliers to insert the pins. This comes from having with way to many tiny holes in my finger tip! This jig would work with brass rod as well.

I tried the burnishing fluid once and it didn't turn out like I wanted it to. So mostly just paint and weather. I've recently purchased a can of Mr. Metal Primer that I am going to try on the next set to see how that works as a primer coat.

Tracks are just tedious as all get out and suck the fun out of any build, which is why I've started doing them at the beginning to keep projects from stalling out.

HTH
Mike

 

[moon puppy]

I generally make a cutting jig for the supplied wire using a plastic tube and a plastic block glued to one end.

That's smart right there.

 

[errains]

Thanks Mike!! That jig is great so I made one up and it works beautifully. Had a slight FUBAR with my first run of 10 links. I’ll post more on that later.

 

[Barney]

Me thinks I'll stick with airplanes as much as possible. These track thingies are 'pensive!

 

[helios]

I definitely know where your coming from Barney. They cost almost twice what I usually cough up for an armor kit.

It's the armor version of our resin exhausts, wheels, bang seats, or cockpits. It's all a rabbit hole that should be approached with caution...cause you never know how deep it is. (looking sideways at the 1/72 F-8.....with twice as much in resin add-ons than the kit cost new.....that really weren't necessary).

Having said that, I do want try them once. I can definitely see some of the advantages to them after nearly ruining the plastic tracks on my BUK. The advantage of being able to weather them w/ reckless abandon is definitely a point worth considering.

I'll be following this. Always been curious how these go together.

 

[helios]

Ok, I just had to go look...and it appears I can get the FM tracks for all of the limited armor in the stash w/ the exception of the AAVR-7A1. Will definitely have to keep them in mind for the next one. Though it will be a bit as I've got more wingy things lined up in the near future, plus picking away at some of the shelf queens.

 

[reconron]

If you like to use the Uschi vd Rosten or Ak-Interactive burnishing fluid, there is one important step before you use it.
Scrub your tracks using acetone preferbly, alternative use vinegar.
Don't use dishwater as it prevents the chemical reaction of burnishing in nooks and crannies.

 

[sharkman]

I tried a set once. Got half of one side done, lost interest and gave the kit away!

That's when I realized I have no patience for tracked things!

 

[centaur567]

Another reason to stick with 1/48th scale in aircraft and armor. Good Luck. Gary S. XXXXV XX XX

 

[errains]

Got the one side done. So far so good for the most part, about a quarter of the way through the other side...

I'll post more when its finished.