Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Better to do it with the suggestions and it all go good while learning rather than skip steps and regret it down the line.
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MHF Crocker
- Thread starter paddy
- Start date
So you gotta prototype it before production. Makes sense. 
paddy
Well-known member
Yea i think its because you have to drill so many holes and they all have to line up, also there is a possibility that a bit could be bent or a peg could be oval and not fit in a hole etc so it does make sense. I will give it a gop...just hope it comes apart again or its going to be a very odd model 
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
We use acetone all the time at work to remove pearls and other items from jewelry in order to do the metal repairs. With super glue, heat will also break it down and make it come apart if nothing else.
paddy
Well-known member
When i was in engineering we used to get travelling sales men call in, one was from loctite. We used Loctite for holding bearings on shafts and fixing interference fits permanently. One of his sales pitches was that train companies use Loctite to hold the wheels on the carriages....so it must be good...
I always had this vision of a train crash and the report saying..A lady in carriage three spilt some nail varnish remover and the wheels fell off her carriage....
Heat was instant death to Loctite retainer as well as acetone.
I always had this vision of a train crash and the report saying..A lady in carriage three spilt some nail varnish remover and the wheels fell off her carriage....
Heat was instant death to Loctite retainer as well as acetone.
paddy
Well-known member
I accidentally hit on a good way of cleaning up the castings. Some of the engine covers had a finish applied ie: the castings were dressed to give a smooth finish/shine.
I attacked one with a 3m 1" dia flapper wheels with a super fine grit in the 1000;s but what i got was a polished finish and not very uniform.
This was not what i wanted at all (sorry i didnt take a picture) so i put the part in the barrel and to be honest, forgot about it for 2 hours......dreading what i was going to find as this metal is soft as butter, i had a look inside and to my surprise i found this
With an unfinished casting as a comparison ..so there is another lesson learned
I also started a dry assembly of the engine.
This is a cross between model making and engineering and i love it
There are dozens of hole to drill and each must be spot on, the quality of the castings is exceptional and the markings for hole positions are spot on. the holes that run from the crankcases to the head through the barrel fins must be spot on if they are all going to lign up., get a hole out and the bolts that run from the head to the cases are not going to go through.
The instructions dont call out which holes to drill or what size but each part has a small indent to show where a hole should be. The dry build is essential because during that build you WILL find a part that has no hole to locate it, its easy to add at this stage but could be impossible after painting or assembly later. In one cylinder assembly as above there are 52 holes so 104 holes that must lineup in this small assembly stage. There are another 50 holes in the sides of the crank case i have already drilled, you can see the arm to the right has another 6 to drill depending on whether you fit a distributor or a magneto..
I attacked one with a 3m 1" dia flapper wheels with a super fine grit in the 1000;s but what i got was a polished finish and not very uniform.
This was not what i wanted at all (sorry i didnt take a picture) so i put the part in the barrel and to be honest, forgot about it for 2 hours......dreading what i was going to find as this metal is soft as butter, i had a look inside and to my surprise i found this
With an unfinished casting as a comparison ..so there is another lesson learned
I also started a dry assembly of the engine.
This is a cross between model making and engineering and i love it
There are dozens of hole to drill and each must be spot on, the quality of the castings is exceptional and the markings for hole positions are spot on. the holes that run from the crankcases to the head through the barrel fins must be spot on if they are all going to lign up., get a hole out and the bolts that run from the head to the cases are not going to go through.
The instructions dont call out which holes to drill or what size but each part has a small indent to show where a hole should be. The dry build is essential because during that build you WILL find a part that has no hole to locate it, its easy to add at this stage but could be impossible after painting or assembly later. In one cylinder assembly as above there are 52 holes so 104 holes that must lineup in this small assembly stage. There are another 50 holes in the sides of the crank case i have already drilled
, you can see the arm to the right has another 6 to drill depending on whether you fit a distributor or a magneto..
paddy
Well-known member
Having found an easy way of cleaning up castings i have expanded on that now.
This was my original barrel set up, it was a mix of 3mm and 6mm chips with a few other odds and sods..
i have now sorted these out and just gone for the 3mm chips
This works even better
In order to get a contrast between polished and smooth and rough (castings) these are the same finish from the barrel as above but one now has a matt coat and the other a gloss coat. This also works well, obviously i cant just leave the parts bare metal because they will tarnish over time.
This was my original barrel set up, it was a mix of 3mm and 6mm chips with a few other odds and sods..
i have now sorted these out and just gone for the 3mm chips
This works even better
In order to get a contrast between polished and smooth and rough (castings) these are the same finish from the barrel as above but one now has a matt coat and the other a gloss coat. This also works well, obviously i cant just leave the parts bare metal because they will tarnish over time.
paddy
Well-known member
For those that dont do barreling its very much like a washing machine drum, it has ridges in the barrel so as it revolves the parts and media are lifted up on the ridges till they drop off and fall to the bottom of the barrel. The size of the chips and their shape and weight all act on the parts that are mixed in as well as the drop off the ridges. By altering the size of the chip it alters the impact on the part, the amount of water in the barrel can also cushion the drop. The more chips the more of a rubbing action as the drop is reduced. Speed of rotation is also a factor that governs the drop but you dont want to go so fast the the chips and parts are just pinned to the inside so dont drop.
There you go, clear as mud
There you go, clear as mud
Smooth!
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Purdy! I like the shiny. (yeah it needs to be painted but looks so much better than as they came)
Looks great from here.
Better strap that baby down and snap the straps "That ain't goin' no where".
paddy
Well-known member
Before i go too far i have been advised to get the frame lined up. This is a task in itself, unlike plastic White metal bends and stays there and it bends very very easily.. like between finger and thumb you could put a 90 degree bend in a straight length.
As its supplied its out, by the time you have barrelled it, its way out , like 1/2" out at the front.
My advice is use the engine as a jig, there are four points that must locate/line up, keep the rear cylinder parallel to the rear vertical frame tube. Don't require parts to be sprung even a little to get them to line up, allow the engine to rest it in the frame correctly without any fixings.
When the engine mounting points are correct use the grid on the cutting mat to check alignment , fit the rear axle spinmdel to help with width and angles. but basically it not something you can really tell, advice or photograph with any accuracy but bear in mind if you want your wheels to line up with the mudguards and the front wheel to be in line with the back, time spent on the frame is the way forward as well as dry build and checking several stages ahead.....................i think
note above the rear axle plates are bent out so use the spindle get this right
As its supplied its out, by the time you have barrelled it, its way out
, like 1/2" out at the front.My advice is use the engine as a jig, there are four points that must locate/line up, keep the rear cylinder parallel to the rear vertical frame tube. Don't require parts to be sprung even a little to get them to line up, allow the engine to rest it in the frame correctly without any fixings.
When the engine mounting points are correct use the grid on the cutting mat to check alignment , fit the rear axle spinmdel to help with width and angles. but basically it not something you can really tell, advice or photograph with any accuracy but bear in mind if you want your wheels to line up with the mudguards and the front wheel to be in line with the back, time spent on the frame is the way forward as well as dry build and checking several stages ahead.....................i think
note above the rear axle plates are bent out so use the spindle get this right
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I have a 1/9 scale Kubelwagen that was started back in the 80's. It was set aside as it needed work that at the time I did not have the tools to do. The only thing that was done was the engine and it is very much a miniature of the real thing. It is back in the cue now as I have the tooling to machine the insides of the sheet metal panels to add the ribbing patterns.
Oh and don't forget to check for twisting on that frame. In your photos it looks like a slight bend to the right in the part running up to the front fork pivot, and the pivot tube for the front fork looks to be slightly twisted counter clockwise if you were really sitting on it.
I wonder how soft the alloy is in that frame. If it is real soft you could have trouble even handling it.
Oh and don't forget to check for twisting on that frame. In your photos it looks like a slight bend to the right in the part running up to the front fork pivot, and the pivot tube for the front fork looks to be slightly twisted counter clockwise if you were really sitting on it.
I wonder how soft the alloy is in that frame. If it is real soft you could have trouble even handling it.
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