They didn't...
But there are so many options from France in Indochina
... to Greece post-war!
Oohhh! Clipped wings AND zero-length rocket rails!
-
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MFH Abarth 1000-SP 1/12
- Thread starter paddy
- Start date
But there are so many options from France in Indochina
... to Greece post-war!
Oohhh! Clipped wings AND zero-length rocket rails!
paddy
Well-known member
Talking of rocket rails, i watched a very good documentary on Amazon prime last night called Typhoon at war. A new program dated 2025.
Very much recommended
one guy on there fired 4 salvos of 2 rockets at a train from above/behind
and he hit it but the train was going round quite a bend and all 4 salvos hit it right round the bend , pretty good aiming
Very much recommended
one guy on there fired 4 salvos of 2 rockets at a train from above/behind
and he hit it but the train was going round quite a bend and all 4 salvos hit it right round the bend , pretty good aiming
paddy
Well-known member
ZX-6 is the popular go too version from Tamiya and pacific coast and eduard
My doubts are based on the camo and condition. , My guess is these are over painted green and grey models and i suspect the effect of sand blasting from the prop and sand meant that they started off scruffy and ended up....scruffier if thats a word. I do wonder about colours as well as all we have are colourised pictures by people trying to be clever who probably had no idea what the proper colour really was.
My theory is that a lot of Spitfires were really rough especially over seas ( in the field) and not the very smart aircraft we see now in original factory pictures and modern restorations. Most had a life span of about 50-100 hours and were pretty much disposable.
Interesting that in the typhoon Doc last night they didnt repair aircraft they just took a new one as there were so many spare however there was an engine shortage so they did save the engines and put them in new airframes. In other words they had way more airframes than engines. And that is one of the reason only one Typhoon survives today, they were basically disposable. The one that did survive was in the USA conducting armament trials.
My doubts are based on the camo and condition. , My guess is these are over painted green and grey models and i suspect the effect of sand blasting from the prop and sand meant that they started off scruffy and ended up....scruffier if thats a word. I do wonder about colours as well as all we have are colourised pictures by people trying to be clever who probably had no idea what the proper colour really was.
My theory is that a lot of Spitfires were really rough especially over seas ( in the field) and not the very smart aircraft we see now in original factory pictures and modern restorations. Most had a life span of about 50-100 hours and were pretty much disposable.
Interesting that in the typhoon Doc last night they didnt repair aircraft they just took a new one as there were so many spare however there was an engine shortage so they did save the engines and put them in new airframes. In other words they had way more airframes than engines. And that is one of the reason only one Typhoon survives today, they were basically disposable. The one that did survive was in the USA conducting armament trials.
Will check that out Paddy. Thanks.
Regarding the Typhoon. It's kinda like the Hellcat in the Pacific. don't recall what book but it spoke to the practice that if a Hellcat got banged up either in combat or landing they would just pitch it over and have a new one brought up from the jeep carriers.
It is now!
Regarding the Typhoon. It's kinda like the Hellcat in the Pacific. don't recall what book but it spoke to the practice that if a Hellcat got banged up either in combat or landing they would just pitch it over and have a new one brought up from the jeep carriers.
well, there are some actual WWII color photos...
Official caption: "Sig. Corps Radio Photo-1-30-44 / Italy! American soldiers examining wreckage of Spitfire which crashed in town of Attrezzeria, near Anzio. Pilot's plane barely damaged building in background."
This Spitfire MK VIII JF805 from Royal Air Force 145 Squadron crashed during a forced landing at Nettuno. The pilot, Flight Officer L.J. Dexter, suffered minor wounds, but survived the incident. The pilot attempted to land the plane on a nearby landing strip, but lost control and hit this equipment (attrezzeria) shack.
Official caption: "Sig. Corps Radio Photo-1-30-44 / Italy! American soldiers examining wreckage of Spitfire which crashed in town of Attrezzeria, near Anzio. Pilot's plane barely damaged building in background."
This Spitfire MK VIII JF805 from Royal Air Force 145 Squadron crashed during a forced landing at Nettuno. The pilot, Flight Officer L.J. Dexter, suffered minor wounds, but survived the incident. The pilot attempted to land the plane on a nearby landing strip, but lost control and hit this equipment (attrezzeria) shack.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I was going to ask the scale, but it was posted toward the beginning. 1/12th. Looking really good so far Paddy!
paddy
Well-known member
I always put the scale in the thread title
its a scale i can work with because it works with the available brass tube sizes, rubber sleeving, usable screw sizes etc and my poor eye sight and fat fingers these days. Its a bit like you moving from watches to clocks
The down side is mistakes and poor finish stick out a mile especially with paint. You know when you do some thing in 1/35 or /48 and take a picture which enlarges it and you see all sorts of untidy joins and finishes you couldn't notice with the naked eye.... well you dont have to take the picture with these ( The motor bikes are 1/9 )
MFH do cars in 1/24 1/20 and 1/43, all metal, i would like to try a 1/43 but a 1/20 is probably more realistic for me
This is a 1/43 Honda RA300, nose cone looks like it needs cleaning up but otherwise. These are about $150 so not cheap but no more expensive than a lot of plastic kits these days all but smaller , this would be about 3 inch , probably suit a watch maker.......oh hang on !!!
one big plus would be the white metal would be a lot sturdier in this size.
its a scale i can work with because it works with the available brass tube sizes, rubber sleeving, usable screw sizes etc and my poor eye sight and fat fingers these days. Its a bit like you moving from watches to clocks
The down side is mistakes and poor finish stick out a mile especially with paint. You know when you do some thing in 1/35 or /48 and take a picture which enlarges it and you see all sorts of untidy joins and finishes you couldn't notice with the naked eye.... well you dont have to take the picture with these ( The motor bikes are 1/9 ) MFH do cars in 1/24 1/20 and 1/43, all metal, i would like to try a 1/43 but a 1/20 is probably more realistic for me
This is a 1/43 Honda RA300, nose cone looks like it needs cleaning up but otherwise
. These are about $150 so not cheap but no more expensive than a lot of plastic kits these days all but smaller , this would be about 3 inch , probably suit a watch maker.......oh hang on !!!one big plus would be the white metal would be a lot sturdier in this size.
paddy
Well-known member
Have i sprayed these ?? well i have covered them in paint by spraying ....but spraying implies a degree of finesse
Now to finish each part. A visual check, parts rectified with 4000 abrasive, re spray affected areas, allow to dry for several days then apply decals.
Clear coat, at least 6 coats , ..leave to go hard for at least a week....at least thats the plan. Interior parts like under the hood etc will be satin or Matt clear i think. (it may need 2 weeks to go hard) rub back and polish. mean while i will think about the interior, wheels and exhaust etc.
This isnt going to win any prizes but i am not too bothered as its a trial run and i can see the way forward with these kits. I need to spend a lot more time on individual parts and finish. a lot of these parts could be, in fact need to be, detailed with caliper brake lines and wiring and a lot more, Pin washes to lift detail and so on but for now and this model i will be pleased if i get it half as good as i expect my future builds to be. You may ask why i need a trial run ? well this is not just a plastic kit in metal, its a completely different concept to model making, rather like an Airfix 1/24 spitfire in plastic v a 1/24 Spitfire in balsa wood . everything from the glue to the technical to the paint is different but they both end up looking the same . If there is a comparison its more like a short run resin kit .
Now to finish each part. A visual check, parts rectified with 4000 abrasive, re spray affected areas, allow to dry for several days then apply decals.
Clear coat, at least 6 coats , ..leave to go hard for at least a week....at least thats the plan. Interior parts like under the hood etc will be satin or Matt clear i think. (it may need 2 weeks to go hard) rub back and polish. mean while i will think about the interior, wheels and exhaust etc.
This isnt going to win any prizes but i am not too bothered as its a trial run and i can see the way forward with these kits. I need to spend a lot more time on individual parts and finish. a lot of these parts could be, in fact need to be, detailed with caliper brake lines and wiring and a lot more, Pin washes to lift detail and so on but for now and this model i will be pleased if i get it half as good as i expect my future builds to be. You may ask why i need a trial run ? well this is not just a plastic kit in metal, its a completely different concept to model making, rather like an Airfix 1/24 spitfire in plastic v a 1/24 Spitfire in balsa wood . everything from the glue to the technical to the paint is different but they both end up looking the same . If there is a comparison its more like a short run resin kit .
This will look great Paddy, looking forward to seeing it all together.
paddy
Well-known member
The paint has shown up problems with the finish on the resin. What i couldn't see with Matt primer is now more obvious.
I am surprised how bad it actually is and you would have thought this would have been obvious before spraying. Anyway as i keep saying, this is a learning process
The obvious options are
A/ strip back and re spray with a filler primer first then flat back.
B/ continue on this route and flatten back the Red, then respray red, then multi coat clear and flat and polish.
There are 12 separate pieces that make up the body each with an external area of finish and each with a decal or decals, most decals need to line up with adjoining parts for example the number board covers three separate panels. I cant assemble , apply decal then dis assemble to clear coat so i am going to have to completely finish each of the 12 panels before i go any further.
Its quite a conundrum, but i quite like conundrums.
I am surprised how bad it actually is and you would have thought this would have been obvious before spraying. Anyway as i keep saying, this is a learning process
The obvious options are
A/ strip back and re spray with a filler primer first then flat back.
B/ continue on this route and flatten back the Red, then respray red, then multi coat clear and flat and polish.
There are 12 separate pieces that make up the body each with an external area of finish and each with a decal or decals, most decals need to line up with adjoining parts for example the number board covers three separate panels. I cant assemble , apply decal then dis assemble to clear coat so i am going to have to completely finish each of the 12 panels before i go any further.
Its quite a conundrum, but i quite like conundrums.
I'd vote strip'er down and smooth it out. 
paddy
Well-known member
I tried the easy option first by usuing the red as a filler primer with a rub back with 3000 grit and another 2 coat which has improved things.
Hopefully when this has gone hard i can polish out any other faults, add the decals then clear coat.
Its a very expensive way of doing things as i have already used 2 cans of Red
Hopefully when this has gone hard i can polish out any other faults, add the decals then clear coat.
Its a very expensive way of doing things as i have already used 2 cans of Red
That'll work!
Mr Surfacer 500, or any putty filler. If it's a thick putty you'll need to thin it some. Get a fat brush and dimple it around the surface you want texture on. I've seen people us solvent but that's scary to me.
Any sort of liquid putty would work. There's a Mr Liquid Putty out there.
Steve Ski
Well-known member
Hmm, thinking outside the box a little, but maybe try using a little baking soda from a small flour sieve on the wet surface, then hit it with rubbing alcohol to set, then prime it. I know this may sound crazy, and you will need to play with it, but you can also remove the baking soda before priming if it doesn't work or the texture doesn't look right. I know it works for ground textures, why not something else like under seal?
