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Latest Acquisitions Revisited!

New Resin 2 Detail order:
B-17 radios
R2D48023B17Radios1.JPG
R2D48023B17Radios2.JPG

Another 50 cal with banana barrel.
R2D48024b.JPG

72nd scale R-2800 engines for Thunderbolts, Corsairs, or Hellcats...
R2D72033R2800a.JPG
R2D72033R2800b.JPG
 
You building a B17?
Huh? I bought the radios since I may use them for other subjects needing an SCR-275 & 522 components.

Anyway, whoever heard of a Flying Fortress with a sharkmouth?

B-17 Chennault's Pappy III.jpg
B-17 DHK-B-17GTigerGirl.jpg
B-17G 10277069_10202796242360724_1814049072937083117_n.jpg
B-17G 21751782_10211970499791426_6805640686379225333_n.jpg
B-17TigerGirl.jpg
B-17FlakEater00.jpg
B-17FlakEater01.jpg
B-17FlakEater02.jpg
B-17FlakEater03.jpg
B-17FlakEaterdoble640px.jpg
B-17G Flak Eater.jpg
B-17G 988777_10201699557264282_1269129597_n.jpg
B-17G 1399217_10202186863886643_903897062_o.jpg
B-17G 10464039_10203172498966904_4833010947143870360_n.jpg
B-17G 11224451_10206627824027871_4420353329585630677_o.jpg
B-17G 22228252_10212156483960914_5511385443455459619_n.jpg
B-17G 22279615_10212156475880712_5791188917902914401_n.jpg
B-17G Bar Fly 22228252_10212156461200345_5048641613189498173_n.jpg
B-17G.jpg
B-17G-15-DL 4237871 447BG 711BS.jpg
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B-17GPrincessPat358thBS303thBG1.jpg
B-17GPrincessPat358thBS303thBG2.jpg
B-17GPrincessPat358thBS303thBG3.jpg
B-17GTigerGirlLStailArtwork.jpg

B-17conminiboca.jpg


There are two B-17 (Airfix in 72nd scale) in a shopping cart but I haven't pulled the trigger...
 
While HiTech did a resin nose for the Mauve kit, it had some errors (unseen by most) which were corrected when they collaborated with AMtech to release their P-40F/L kit. I have the original AMtech kit without the resin nose but I already have the original resin HiTech nose (came with vertical fin. rudder, and flaps as well) for the Mauve kit. Why two?
aBay AMtech P-40FL with Resin nose.JPG

The kit has a long tail fuselage so, I plan on this P-40L scheme. I haven't found decals for it yet:
1734738864433.png


As for the second kit... I would have to graft the nose onto a short tailed fuselage (like the spare AMtech P-40E kits I have) to make this P-40F! Note, that this is not the same as the long tailed P-40F kit with white 209. Again, no decals yet:
1734738593094.png


What to do with the left over long tailed fuselage and P-40E (allison engined) nose? Make a long tailed P-40K! Brazilian to boot!
1734741998595.png


That is a nice segue to this next purchase which was researched by the late Norris Graser, so I know it is accurate as of the time it was printed:
zzz 007.JPG


I have sharkmouth and sabre-toothed schemes. along with Parrots (actually they are Hawks0/Tigers/Skulls, but this is a rattlesnake! This specific aircraft:
P-40K Snake Hydes Harlot.jpg

Others from the same unit in Hawaii:

P-40K Snake 78th Midway 300dpi.jpg
P-40K Snake 00.jpg
P-40K Snake Rhapsody in Rivets.jpg

Alas, a short tailed P-40K. Another AMtech P-40E modification (using the Hasegawa P-40K tail as a guide).

The other schemes on the sheet: Major Ed Nollmeyer's (not Hollmeyer's) ride of the 26th FS (51st FG), based in China during 1943/44.
1734753501676.png

Jinx (with the 'bird' underneath):
1734753872041.png

Instructions:
SuperScale 48-635 P-40 Kittyhawk III.jpg


From the same seller was this well priced PYNup Decal for the A-20G Havoc:
eBay PynUp Decals A-20 front.JPG
eBay PynUp Decals A-20 rear.JPG

Miss Behaven...
1734753343731.png

PynUP PYND48027 Havoc HussiesPart 1.jpg


For my P-400 (Hasegawa kit), I replaced the awful kit decals with a set from Eduard for the Wahl Eye scheme:
eBay Eduard P-400 Decals.JPG


Then some tools to help with scratch-building; some T-squares and a flexible rule for inner curvatures...
Amazon T-squares.JPG

Amazon Flexible Curve.JPG
 
I thoroughly enjoyed building that AM Tech kit years back. Modifying it for the resin nose was the first time I'd ever scratched something before. And while no shark nose, the Ace of Pearls was a Tuskegee bird and a neat scheme.
 
Bit of an odd one this....
I have been researching prop blur for a small diorama and found some really good ideas however thinking inside the box the perfect way to get prop blur is probably to spin the prop.

Found these at about£1.00 each :)
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as you can see , just 8mm x 4mm and 3v
Not sure yet but it opens all sorts of possibilities for my Tamiya 1/32 spit i have in mind. :)
 
I have been a bit on the busy side with "other" stuff and am now getting my ducks in a row again. Have had a few items I picked up over Thanksgiving from Sprue Brothers while up in KC visiting my brother. Turns out he lives about 15 minutes from them and they are buried back in an industrial park. IF you are in KC and want to swing by to pick up an order, you just need to do like normal and set an order up like normally. Then in the comment box tell them you want to swing by to pick up the order at the warehouse. They have a nice little entryway but you have to ring the bell to be let in. The lady that waited on me was very nice and we visited for a little bit. There are also a fair number of models in showcases to look at while she goes back and gets the order.

First off a couple of items that I picked up at the local hobby shop. It is under new ownership and they have been really upgrading it a lot! Adding things to bring more people in with RC cars, a huge slot car track, some other interesting build crafts and it is more organized and neat.

Aq-534.jpg


Aq-535.jpg


And now for the things I picked up at Sprue Brothers.

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I really like the Valliant books. They are printed on really nice dense paper. Then they have a lot of detail, drawings and information in them. I believe the Ju88 books are new revisions. I need to get back on to my Ju88 build and see if I can get it finished up in the near future.
 
Very interested in the Lysander book i have always wondered about a detail Lysander build
Also like the B17 decals, are they for the HK B17 ?
 
We have a plant in KC, if I ever get a chance to go by there I'm going shopping!
Bob you have to order online like usual. They don't have a regular showroom or anything like that. You have to add a comment that you will swing by to pick up your order. The only thing you might save is the shipping. The lady that helped me was really nice and when I decided I wanted to add to the order, I had to do so by giving her the SKU numbers for the items I wanted to add and she went back and got the items while I waited out front.

Very interested in the Lysander book i have always wondered about a detail Lysander build
Also like the B17 decals, are they for the HK B17 ?
I have a couple of 1/48th scale Lysanders and the old Matchbox 1/32 scale Lysander kit. Yeah those are high up on my get to building list. The Valiant books are published in England so you might be able to pick up one there quite easily.
As Saúl said, the Quinta Studios decals are made specifically for the HK kit. The decals I have used so far fit "PERFECTLY" and look great once installed. The only criticism I have is that the decals are a "soft" resin and are fairly flexible. This makes the knobs and levers a little bit of a pain to install. Usually I have the Eduard PE and use their PE for the levers and such when I can.

I did go in and work on my paint booth last night, then did some paint work on my Ju88 seat parts. (Yay, I finally got around to it) I am finding I love the Harder and Steenbeck airbrush! It works very nice and is much easier to disassemble and clean out than the Badger airbrushes I have used for decades. Where the Badger airbrushes have a "very small" part for the paint tip, the H&S tip part is very large and easy to handle. The paint flows through it VERY well and I even sprayed some Vallejo last night and only had a little trouble. I think I will be buying another H&S brush in the near future.
 
@paddy Makes a big difference Paddy! I have a home made booth that is much bigger and uses two 120V instrument fans. I pulled the filter off right after the first time and let the fans pull it all out directly. One fan is low speed and the other is high volume with some interesting ducting to make it all work. Dumps out the window and the inside of the dryer duct ends up all covered with paint (which is no problem). Yeah I have to clean the two instrument fans periodically, but that isn't much of an issue either. It works, and sucks out the bad stuff very well so I am happy. Just added another light strip to the fan booth so I can see a little better.
 
@paddy and @Heavens Eagle

I got one similar last Christmas. It replaced a huge table mounted one I had for years and was too big for my limited space. It works like a champ and I am well pleased. No one has complained about lacquer and other stinks so I guess Im good to go. I have thought about building one the size of the window (older double hung windows) and just mounting it. That would be HUGE! :yipee:
 
And now for something completely different
OR
Maybe I will be going a little bat sh!t crazy.

Aq-540.jpg


Aq-541.jpg


Aq-542.jpg


Yeah, this kind of makes Eduard PE look tame. If you look close, you can see in the first step a "X10" and those are all small parts. It is only 13 1/2 cm long so it isn't very big.

Aq-543.jpg


Aq-544.jpg
 
Some 'hard' solder (higher melting temperature) to use when soldering basic shapes onto which smaller photo-etched parts will be soldered (with lower temperature solder so as not to weaken the basic soldered joints):
eBayHardSolder.JPG
 
interesting Saul
I still have some lead solder so happy days, i remember this was being fazed out when i was in engineering 20 years ago with some sort of awful lead free rubbish that no one could get to work, the melting point was so high you ended up burning the flux before the lead free started to melt, and then of course it didnt flow. any way i digress , most solders are eutectic and if then are allowed to cool slowly you can add joints later without melting the originals because the re-melfing point is higher than the original melting point...if that makes sense :)
 
Any way i digress , most solders are eutectic and if then are allowed to cool slowly you can add joints later without melting the originals because the re-melting point is higher than the original melting point...if that makes sense :)
It makes sense. My solder wires are quite old and, while I have a resistance soldering unit, many times prefer the Wahl soldering iron I have for most tasks. I also have an extremely light duty Cold Heat soldering tool, and a conventional one. I got into the high/low temperature soldering when trying to built a PE grill on a Steyr 1500 using the PART (of Poland) set. The slats on the grill were less than 5mm apart. Looking at my equipment, I only am missing a butane torch!
 
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