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Eduard 109 trop.

If you get it together and glued without making globs or areas you have to sand you can leave the seam un sanded. The Bf 109 was assembled in 2 halves and so had a natural seam. A lot of people fill it and so lose that little detail.
James
 
I have a somewhat old and slightly ragged #2 brush that I use to apply my solvent glue. It is large enough to hold some solvent, but still pointy enough to touch the seam and wick the solvent to the seam. If I have a very touchy spot I have some old watch oilers that work similar to the touch and flow but are much finer and work well with tight spots.
 
That's looking very nice! (y)

For most of my builds I use Tamiya Extra thin cement, what I like about it is when joining parts (like fuselage halves for example) I hold the parts together loosely and place a little Tamiya Extra Thin on the area to be glued and the cement will wick into the gap and then I will hold the parts together with a little more force while the glue sets. The Tamiya Extra Thin glue bottle comes with a brush attached to the lid that makes for very precise glue application.


Matrixone
 
Thanks guys, I just got the ExtraThin in the post, I'll give it a shot tonight.

I realized I put the harness stays in the wrong place, they should be closer together in the middle, so I'll address that too.
 
moon puppy said:
Jeff do you have any of the thin solvents like Tanex7 or Tamiya Extra thin? You're right in your thinking of doing it from inside as much as you can, I do it all the time.

Also have you see the Touch'n Flow applicator for solvent based glues?


http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/flx7000xxx.htm

Very controlled application of the thin stuff.
Click to expand...

I've been using the Plasti-weld stuff myself & have the "T-N-F" applicator (but, have yet to use it) I've been using a syringes as an applicator for some time. Gets right down into the seam & very little clean up afterwards. Just lightly trim the "ridge" with a blade tip.
 
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