DML Late Nashorn

[mike walsh]

Hi Terry,

Thanks for your kind words my apologies for the late reply .
the mud application works well if you keep the paintbrush wet removing the build up of paste from clogging up in the paintbrush .
With a dark paste you can then lighten up with pastel and pigment giving variation in the appearance in the lower hull.

I have applied the decals to the side walls and front as well doing a few 88mm ammo rounds . I was dissapointed with the AFV club decals as they had a habbit of breaking up once removed from the backing paper.

Here are the next images .I'll flat clear the sides,the shield and 88mm rounds and mount the gunner .

The ammo will be glued into the ammo bins and I prepare to work on the fighting bay.

Cheers
Michael

 

[Sharkmouth]

Hi Mike,

I usually test new decals when I get them by trying out the extras. For some reason, AFV Club decals (made in Japan) take a longer time to soak free. This makes me uneasy since it can also wash away the adhesive but it was not the case.

Try leaving it in the warm (not hot) water for about 20 seconds and place on a paper towel. Do not move the decals until the paper lies flat. If the paper is still curled, the adhesive has not released form the backing paper.

I hope my experience is of some use,

 

[Tony lee]

"I'm in heaven" Mike :woohoo: Bring it on home buddy.

Tony Lee

 

[Ruben Lopez]

Fantastic job mate. Your attention to detail is superb!

Ruben

 

[stevenk]

Looking real good Mike! Keep it coming!
Steven

 

[JSteinman]

 

[mike walsh]

Hi Saul ,

Thank you for your help on the decals.
I used the afv club 105MM rounds and did not have any problems in the B and B dio and they come out rather nicely .
I used the same application as you mentioned although once the decal got on the round the problem with the decal is it did not want to conform around the round .It was a tedious application and I have enough 88mm rounds to show the lettering .

As to the 105mm ammo rounds ,no problems
This is what I mean

Thanks everyone for your kind words of motivation it is very much appreciated.


After having a rather busy weekend I have now got the gunner glued into position with
some tidying up around the gun area with a additional handle going on the opposite side of the gunner .
There will be a lot of touch up painting in and around the gunner as well as making sure his intercom leads marry up with the comms jacket on the side wall.
Here are the images .

Cheers
Michael

 

[mike walsh]

dryfitting the gun crew and shell racks

Hello again

Here is some more test shots of the crew being dryfit into postion.

All the 88mm rounds have been glued into the shell racks .
I have placed everything in to test fit the location of the figures and shell racks.
There is a little more painting to do with the figures /gun and shell racks although before all this is glued in place I still have to do the driver and radio operator first

Michael

 

[moon puppy]

Re: dryfitting the gun crew and shell racks

Superb work Mike, I wish I had seen your earlier post from last week. Can't wait to see more!

 

[wds]

It looks good. The figures make it come alive. I have a feeling that some serious destruction is about to happen down range. :pinch:
Keep making it happen.

Bill

 

[AndyFettes]

Nice Nice Nice


Andy

 

[Iron Mike]

Wow, Mike, it's really coming together nicely! The figures look great and add another dimension to your work.

 

[Kristof Pulinckx]

Hi Mike,

Mean looking beast eh those Nashorn / hornisses.
I saved some of your pics to my HD , I'll think they come inhandy whenI tackle my Nashy.
Nice progress on your modell.
Like to see it finished soon.

Best regards

Kristof

 

[mike walsh]

Thanks everyone for your kind words.

Here are some more progress images .

The radio operator and driver are now glued into position .
Hatches are now ready to be glued on .

I'll touch up the wiring with enamels and tidy up around the items I have glued down .
Using flat clear where required .

Michael

 

[shawngehling]

Pretty sweet looking,
Nice weathering, keep posting the pics.
Shawn

 

[Pavel Zabák]

Hi Mike,

this is looking realy fantastic.
This dio have all: action, idea,...and many many other.
I like this.

Cheers.
Pavel

 

[Kreighshoer]

that looks so good mike! top notch work!

 

[Cheyenne]

Mike , beautiful build man !!!

Everything shines , very well executed !!!

Earlier in the build there was a question about the breech block handle position .
I believe Laura told you the handle was in a closed position for the breech to be open .
I also always thought that when in a 90 degree position to the barrel/breech , the block was open and when in a 30 , 45 degree position , the breech was closed .

I remember having these pics. to post on your build , ...... but was called away to work , compose a concerto , build a cathedral , or mow the lawn .
Soooo ...... needless to say I dropped the ball on answering .

I think Dragon and other manufactures have it all wrong as to the breech block positions .
According to these pics. weather open or closed the handle should be in a front to back , [ not on a slight angle to the barrel ] , position aligned with the barrel , position , closed or open .
Now this leads me to believe that there is some kind of return spring or some such arrangement .
You pull the handle , the breech opens , and the handle returns to the original position [ aligned front to back ].
You pull the handle again , the breech closes and returns to the said position .


Here's the pics. ...............

Open , handle straight in line with the barrel and breech ..........

Closed , same position ................

So needless to say this positioning should follow through with all 88 's , flak etc. .
I think ?


Oh , and this is in no way a nit pick Mike , I thought the same thing as Laura did .
I just found this interesting after all these years of seeing different positions of the handle on this subject .

 

[MrT]

Looks really great Mike! Thanks for the mud advice.

Terry B)

 

[mike walsh]

Cheyenne wrote:

Mike , beautiful build man !!!

Everything shines , very well executed !!!

Earlier in the build there was a question about the breech block handle position .
I believe Laura told you the handle was in a closed position for the breech to be open .
I also always thought that when in a 90 degree position to the barrel/breech , the block was open and when in a 30 , 45 degree position , the breech was closed .

I remember having these pics. to post on your build , ...... but was called away to work , compose a concerto , build a cathedral , or mow the lawn .
Soooo ...... needless to say I dropped the ball on answering .

I think Dragon and other manufactures have it all wrong as to the breech block positions .
According to these pics. weather open or closed the handle should be in a front to back , [ not on a slight angle to the barrel ] , position aligned with the barrel , position , closed or open .
Now this leads me to believe that there is some kind of return spring or some such arrangement .
You pull the handle , the breech opens , and the handle returns to the original position [ aligned front to back ].
You pull the handle again , the breech closes and returns to the said position .


Here's the pics. ...............

Open , handle straight in line with the barrel and breech ..........

Closed , same position ................

So needless to say this positioning should follow through with all 88 's , flak etc. .
I think ?


Oh , and this is in no way a nit pick Mike , I thought the same thing as Laura did .
I just found this interesting after all these years of seeing different positions of the handle on this subject .

Sorry for the late reply
But,yes,I have got these images as well.I have to agree the breech would work on a spring based cocking lever.I was watching some you tube footage showing the 88's ejecting the shell and leaving the breech in an open position.
I have changed the the lever back to the original position .

Thanks