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DAK with Doc - Next installment
- Thread starter JSteinman
- Start date
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
How you do those tracks like that I'll never know... :idonno
How you do those tracks like that I'll never know... :idonno
JSteinman
Master at Arms
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
Uh, with model glue?
How you do those tracks like that I'll never know... :idonno
Uh, with model glue?
Panzerspike
Member
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
I remember the first time I did that one piece removable exact same way. It was in the very early 80s it was the Tamiya Grief 250/3 kit , it had those link n length tracks first one I recall with those and I liked them. Looking very nice John can’t wait to see the stowage all actually fitted.
Brian
I remember the first time I did that one piece removable exact same way. It was in the very early 80s it was the Tamiya Grief 250/3 kit , it had those link n length tracks first one I recall with those and I liked them. Looking very nice John can’t wait to see the stowage all actually fitted.
Brian
JSteinman
Master at Arms
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
It’s June 1 so...
Everyone should be in primer at this stage. Next step is to apply a base coat of German grey. I am using Tamiya XF-63 diluted with 50% X-20A and a few drops of Tamiya retarder. Take the time to make sure this coat covers well. Generally, I have the psi set to 15 for this type of work.
This can be followed immediately with a post shade layer of the XF-63 mixed with XF-55 Deck tan. Generally, I turn the psi on the line down to 10 for this stage. Good airbrush control is important in this stage. Make sure you stay away from panel lines! Also, hit flat surfaces more than vertical ones. You want to apply color slowly, building up the effect and feathering the edges. A test line sprayed on a piece of paper should be at most 1.5mm wide.
This step is immediatly followed by a final post shade by adding XF-2 white to the mix. Psi stays at 10, and maximum spray with is 1mm. Again hit flat surfaces more and feather inside previous post shading.
As a note I predilute all my Tamiya paints with X-20A 50% when I first open them, by mixing well and then decanting 50% of the volume into a spare bottle, then adding X-20A to restore full volume. So when I say to add XF-55 and XF-2 it is assumed they have already been diluted.
Good luck!
It’s June 1 so...
Everyone should be in primer at this stage. Next step is to apply a base coat of German grey. I am using Tamiya XF-63 diluted with 50% X-20A and a few drops of Tamiya retarder. Take the time to make sure this coat covers well. Generally, I have the psi set to 15 for this type of work.
This can be followed immediately with a post shade layer of the XF-63 mixed with XF-55 Deck tan. Generally, I turn the psi on the line down to 10 for this stage. Good airbrush control is important in this stage. Make sure you stay away from panel lines! Also, hit flat surfaces more than vertical ones. You want to apply color slowly, building up the effect and feathering the edges. A test line sprayed on a piece of paper should be at most 1.5mm wide.
This step is immediatly followed by a final post shade by adding XF-2 white to the mix. Psi stays at 10, and maximum spray with is 1mm. Again hit flat surfaces more and feather inside previous post shading.
As a note I predilute all my Tamiya paints with X-20A 50% when I first open them, by mixing well and then decanting 50% of the volume into a spare bottle, then adding X-20A to restore full volume. So when I say to add XF-55 and XF-2 it is assumed they have already been diluted.
Good luck!
Sherman 18
Master at Arms
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
That's my student face. As we all know edegmacation is importanter
Nice SBS
That's my student face. As we all know edegmacation is importanter Nice SBS
Sherman 18
Master at Arms
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
:salute
It’s June 1 so...
Everyone should be in primer at this stage. Next step is to apply a base coat of German grey. I am using Tamiya XF-63 diluted with 50% X-20A and a few drops of Tamiya retarder. Take the time to make sure this coat covers well. Generally, I have the psi set to 15 for this type of work.
This can be followed immediately with a post shade layer of the XF-63 mixed with XF-55 Deck tan. Generally, I turn the psi on the line down to 10 for this stage. Good airbrush control is important in this stage. Make sure you stay away from panel lines! Also, hit flat surfaces more than vertical ones. You want to apply color slowly, building up the effect and feathering the edges. A test line sprayed on a piece of paper should be at most 1.5mm wide.
This step is immediatly followed by a final post shade by adding XF-2 white to the mix. Psi stays at 10, and maximum spray with is 1mm. Again hit flat surfaces more and feather inside previous post shading.
As a note I predilute all my Tamiya paints with X-20A 50% when I first open them, by mixing well and then decanting 50% of the volume into a spare bottle, then adding X-20A to restore full volume. So when I say to add XF-55 and XF-2 it is assumed they have already been diluted.
Good luck!
:salute
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
Nice, think once this is all done we'll take your post and make it one article for the front page.
It’s June 1 so...
Everyone should be in primer at this stage. Next step is to apply a base coat of German grey. I am using Tamiya XF-63 diluted with 50% X-20A and a few drops of Tamiya retarder. Take the time to make sure this coat covers well. Generally, I have the psi set to 15 for this type of work.
This can be followed immediately with a post shade layer of the XF-63 mixed with XF-55 Deck tan. Generally, I turn the psi on the line down to 10 for this stage. Good airbrush control is important in this stage. Make sure you stay away from panel lines! Also, hit flat surfaces more than vertical ones. You want to apply color slowly, building up the effect and feathering the edges. A test line sprayed on a piece of paper should be at most 1.5mm wide.
This step is immediatly followed by a final post shade by adding XF-2 white to the mix. Psi stays at 10, and maximum spray with is 1mm. Again hit flat surfaces more and feather inside previous post shading.
As a note I predilute all my Tamiya paints with X-20A 50% when I first open them, by mixing well and then decanting 50% of the volume into a spare bottle, then adding X-20A to restore full volume. So when I say to add XF-55 and XF-2 it is assumed they have already been diluted.
Good luck!
Nice, think once this is all done we'll take your post and make it one article for the front page.
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
I wish I was here...I'm hunkered down with work. I'm having to cram for a test scheduled next Thursday. No bench time for me.
I wish I was here...I'm hunkered down with work. I'm having to cram for a test scheduled next Thursday. No bench time for me.
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
I have just started the Tristar pzkfw I and will be DAK. It will be the first time with the individual track links. It really is the part of the build that is scaring me. I like your idea of gluing everything together and will be watching this build.
I have just started the Tristar pzkfw I and will be DAK. It will be the first time with the individual track links. It really is the part of the build that is scaring me. I like your idea of gluing everything together and will be watching this build.
JSteinman
Master at Arms
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
The tracks are not scary, just tedious! You will overcome!
The tracks are not scary, just tedious! You will overcome!
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
"The tracks are not scary, just tedious! You will overcome!"
My fears were justified. One link is ruined. The only way I see to do this is your method of gluing the tracks to the road wheels. Thank you for this thread and showing your method. I will overcome. I started a panzer I because I needed a break from the Dragon Ju-88 and wanted something simple. Now I get to put the worlds smallest plastic pin into a ridiculously small track over 160 times. On top of all that, about six sheep (with sheep dog) are in my yard. I am going to drive around and see if I can find the owners.
So what is my point in this rant? Need a break and want an easy build? One word: Tamiya
"The tracks are not scary, just tedious! You will overcome!"
My fears were justified. One link is ruined. The only way I see to do this is your method of gluing the tracks to the road wheels. Thank you for this thread and showing your method. I will overcome. I started a panzer I because I needed a break from the Dragon Ju-88 and wanted something simple. Now I get to put the worlds smallest plastic pin into a ridiculously small track over 160 times. On top of all that, about six sheep (with sheep dog) are in my yard. I am going to drive around and see if I can find the owners.
So what is my point in this rant? Need a break and want an easy build? One word: Tamiya
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
ROTF....at least the dog is still with them.
ROTF....at least the dog is still with them.
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
First, let give my 2 cents to JSteinman. You have captured the desert bleached panzer grey perfectly. Stopping right there and weathering would look great.
Second, Thank you for link Iron Mike. That looks like a great way of doing it. Right now I taped a stir stick (the big gallon ones) a track length back to another stir stick so there is a step. The step stops the track from moving while I insert the pin. I will give your method a try on the other side.
IMPORTANT UPDATE. The owners of the sheep have been found and will coming to get them shortly. They are in the front of the house. My two dogs (Yorkie and Schnauzer) believe they are the top of the food change because everything runs from them: Deer, Woodchuck, etc. Will they chase the sheep? Yes. Will the sheep dog put some serious hurt on them for chasing the sheep? Yes. What am having to do is put leashes on my dogs and take them out back to potty.
First, let give my 2 cents to JSteinman. You have captured the desert bleached panzer grey perfectly. Stopping right there and weathering would look great.
Second, Thank you for link Iron Mike. That looks like a great way of doing it. Right now I taped a stir stick (the big gallon ones) a track length back to another stir stick so there is a step. The step stops the track from moving while I insert the pin. I will give your method a try on the other side.
IMPORTANT UPDATE. The owners of the sheep have been found and will coming to get them shortly. They are in the front of the house. My two dogs (Yorkie and Schnauzer) believe they are the top of the food change because everything runs from them: Deer, Woodchuck, etc. Will they chase the sheep? Yes. Will the sheep dog put some serious hurt on them for chasing the sheep? Yes. What am having to do is put leashes on my dogs and take them out back to potty.
