Brass Screws

[Rhino]

Hi Guys! I getting set to do the screw (or propellers to you landlubbers!) on USS England. Would there be any interest in a how-to thread, on my technique for such a thing?
Perhaps saving some of this;

 

[Rhino]

Hi Guys! I getting set to do the USS England's screws (or propellers to you landlubbers!)
Would there be any interest in a how-to thread, on my technique for such a thing?
Perhaps saving some of this;

 

[moon puppy]

Er...YEAH!

 

[jknaus]

For sure
James

 

[Sherman 18]

YES!

Any how to thread is awesome!

 

[Bagge]

I'm not building much boats but it's always interesting to see how things are done
In many cases you can use the same techniques for other similar things so i would love to see a SbS
//Mats

 

[Rhino]

Ok guys, U asked for it! :hmmm
Begin, as always by cleaning up the kit screws. every flaw till show under the metal paint so, take your time. Don't forget to have a good time!!

Then find some means of supporting them, so you can prime without handling the actual screw. The oil in your skin could cause blemishes

My favorite primer! See?!

Yep, the smelly toxic stuff. Oh! This same procedure can be used for making anything plastic chrome as well. The metal finish product differs, but the steps do not.

 

[Rhino]

Once your parts are primed, wet sand as necessary or as U wish.

gently airbrush your glossy coat on. Airplane Modelers do this under natural metal finishes as well. I've tried several glossy black paints, the old Testor's PLA enamel is great, but the drying time is long. I prefer the Alclad, personally.

An olf friend of mine tells me he does his base coats on his jets with future. His results are stellar, but I've never tried it myself

Set the base coated parts aside to cure. Overnight is usually enough for the Alclad stuff.

 

[moon puppy]

Not Alclad!!!

I have a love hate relationship with the stuff. I've said I believe it would be great for small items but large stuff can be a pain. Or it could be just my techniques and impatience.

 

[Iron Mike]

Or it could be just my techniques and impatience.

Naw, couldn't be!

How long are you letting the base dry, Chris? Why is the rum gone? :drinks

 

[Rhino]

I posted the Brass Screw thread in "In the Navy" forum!
Fair winds & following seas, me Hearties!

 

[moon puppy]

Merged the two threads to one. Carry on...

 

[Rhino]

Concur. I made the stand from my Mom's USS Voyager into an oversized Starfleet badge, and it never did "Chrome up" the way I wanted. The intake rings & wheels on my 1/144 Kulula "Flying 101" came out SWELL. Bitty is better with alclad.

 

[Rhino]

Overnight. Testors takes days, but the finish is more durable.

U know, Very well, why the Rum is gone!!

 

[Rhino]

I'll shoot the metalizer tonite. More to come.

 

[Bagge]

 

[moon puppy]

I'll shoot the metalizer tonite. More to come.

Alcad Polished Brass??

:yipee

 

[phantom II]

Or it could be just my techniques and impatience.

Naw, couldn't be!

How long are you letting the base dry, Chris? Why is the rum gone? :drinks

Naaah , surely not that

Cheers, Christian B)

 

[Rhino]

Ok, I had to go to Cedar Rapids for Pork-A-Palooza while the black base cured out. Sorry to keep U all waiting!
here's my preferred air pressure setting for metal painting.

This one's actually a model master

Finished screws!

As U prefer, final coat with future, or metalizer sealer, to protect the somewhat delicate finish.
OR If U shoot Alclad Chrome after the base is dry, here's what my Kulula parts came out like.

The pictures do a poor job of showing their true Chrome-iness. These I do coat with Future.

:drinks

 

[AndyFettes]

Nice job Rhino