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All Righty ... What's on the bench today?

I have one of the OLD Dremels which with the right chucks run true. I have several sets of chucks and several years ago I bought a set that go on and tighten by hand. That set mostly runs true and while the Dremel is a fair bit bigger and heavier, it doesn't tend to stall as easy as the smaller battery ones even at slow speeds. The external speed control gives a huge amount of control over speed and it will run slow enough that the Dremel freaks out and doesn't run right, but that slow is way under what I consider useable.
@moon puppy The big problems with Fordom and flex shafts is that you have to fight against the flex shaft. If you are doing anything DELICATE and the tool grabs the long flexible shaft jumps and you cannot hold it still when it does. Also they are EXPENSIVE!! Expect broken carbide bits if you use a flex shaft.
 
The big problems with Fordom and flex shafts is that you have to fight against the flex shaft. If you are doing anything DELICATE and the tool grabs the long flexible shaft jumps and you cannot hold it still when it does. Also they are EXPENSIVE!! Expect broken carbide bits if you use a flex shaft.
True, I had to replace the duplex spring and handpiece for my Foredom CC (F Motor) and only can do delicate work when hanging the flex shaft from a post that the dentist I bought it from included.

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I expect everyone else found this last century but its new to me.

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you can spend forever getting clear parts exactly where you want them and the glue never goes off till you shine the UV light at it :) its crystal clear so almost invisible and works on anything.
 
Oh so maybe it is new to some. :) its unlike me to be ahead of the game. its not expensive. this bottle will last a lifetime and was £9 GBP including the UV pen which is USB rechargeable. its not going to go off it has the consistency
of std CA glue.

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Because it not sticky its easy to position a a part like the lenses on this very small instrument panel and get them spot on before shining the light at them for a few seconds, with CA you dont get a second chance and it may fog. and you cant wipe it off and start again.
this dry's clear as you can see
 
It would work but its quite thin . i haven't tried it but i did put a puddle of it (dome)on my thumb nail and shone the light at it and it set in the dome ....got a bit hot as well :) The only disadvantage i would say is you need to be able to get the UV light at it so it might not work on say a fuselage seam that fits tight together. I need to experiment a bit, it doesnt seem to contract as its dried like most fillers as nothing is evaporating off.
 
A snake pit is on my workbench! Small Cobras had their pilot's consoles corrected (large ones depends on the AM used). For Gary, hey @centaur567, look at the seats in the center, don't they seem funny to you? Unlike any I have seen. These resin items are from the Special Hobby kit.
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I think the seats look odd because they dont have the frames attached
I am referring to the section between the mickey mouse ears. The one on the right has an ear broken off but that is easily repaired.
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The pilot's steel armor seat:
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Gunner's ceramic armor seat:
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Are those ears supposed to be some armor plating?
And I see they CA pallet on your bench. Glad to see you are using it.
The ears are indeed armor plating. I use the bezel for gel type glues with the darning needle (under the small cobra's nose) as an applicator. For thin CA, I use @Rhino's Cap-O-Matic as the angle pools the liquid to the bottom.
 
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