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All Righty ... What's on the bench today?
- Thread starter panzerace007
- Start date
Piet
Well-known member
WIP,
For all you 1/35 scale plane haters , i am
this 1/35 Heinkel 111
Slow progress because i am waiting on the Quinta studio 3d decal interior set (before of the end of next month
)
Before i can glue the halves together .
I thinned the inside with a metal scraper for a more realistic look of the battle damage .
This side shows the incoming rounds other side has the outcoming damage .
For all you 1/35 scale plane haters , i am
this 1/35 Heinkel 111Slow progress because i am waiting on the Quinta studio 3d decal interior set (before of the end of next month
)Before i can glue the halves together .
I thinned the inside with a metal scraper for a more realistic look of the battle damage .
This side shows the incoming rounds other side has the outcoming damage .
Wow! That looks great! Please share more with us Piet!!
And you guys say these motors are true and no wobble? That's my biggest hangup with the Dremels I have, I've entertained the idea of a Foredom setup but I don't use this stuff that often to justify the cost. Or is it that I don't use it because the wobble...
Piet
Well-known member
I will in time
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I have one of the OLD Dremels which with the right chucks run true. I have several sets of chucks and several years ago I bought a set that go on and tighten by hand. That set mostly runs true and while the Dremel is a fair bit bigger and heavier, it doesn't tend to stall as easy as the smaller battery ones even at slow speeds. The external speed control gives a huge amount of control over speed and it will run slow enough that the Dremel freaks out and doesn't run right, but that slow is way under what I consider useable.
@moon puppy The big problems with Fordom and flex shafts is that you have to fight against the flex shaft. If you are doing anything DELICATE and the tool grabs the long flexible shaft jumps and you cannot hold it still when it does. Also they are EXPENSIVE!! Expect broken carbide bits if you use a flex shaft.
@moon puppy The big problems with Fordom and flex shafts is that you have to fight against the flex shaft. If you are doing anything DELICATE and the tool grabs the long flexible shaft jumps and you cannot hold it still when it does. Also they are EXPENSIVE!! Expect broken carbide bits if you use a flex shaft.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Holy crap Batman! NICE!
My first response was ...
paddy
Well-known member
Slam the brakes on, throw out the anchors chaps, Houston we have a problem
The trick with these kits is to forward plan as far as you can then double it
It looks likei am steaming ahead but its all balanced and taped together.
This shows how you mix white metal and resin
Note above the angle of the "head rest"/engine bulkhead.
Now look and i cant get the engine far enough forward ? See the gap between the rear engine cradle and the white resin. I think that gap is about the amount i would gain if the front bulkhead was virticle instead of sloping back.
This is a slight issue with MFH in that the parts made of white metal are sometimes a bit wonky and there is no real way of knowing if they are right until you test fit. I can only guess at the problem here unless i can find an original picture with a good side view. Not an angle that people usually take.
I will now strip it all back to parts and see if its possible the bulkhead could be vertical and still fit everywhere else
I would rather be outside but its 95F and its to hot for me.
The trick with these kits is to forward plan as far as you can then double it
It looks likei am steaming ahead but its all balanced and taped together.This shows how you mix white metal and resin
Note above the angle of the "head rest"/engine bulkhead.
Now look and i cant get the engine far enough forward ? See the gap between the rear engine cradle and the white resin. I think that gap is about the amount i would gain if the front bulkhead was virticle instead of sloping back.
This is a slight issue with MFH in that the parts made of white metal are sometimes a bit wonky and there is no real way of knowing if they are right until you test fit. I can only guess at the problem here unless i can find an original picture with a good side view. Not an angle that people usually take.
I will now strip it all back to parts and see if its possible the bulkhead could be vertical and still fit everywhere else
I would rather be outside but its 95F and its to hot for me.
That's hot for anyone. What's the humidity, that's the killer.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
The wiring on your engine is over the top and looks great so far!
It isn't just your MFH kits Paddy, it is about any big complex kit on the market these days. The big gun I am working on has some accuracy issues that make it not feasible to assemble in transport mode. There are a couple of carriage/gun mount locks that don't line up. It is because who ever did the pattern layout did not take the time to understand how everything works, thus they are about 4-5mm off from where they need to be. There are about 8-10 other items that are off and would make the transport setup all wonky but won't be an issue if set up for firing mode.
Then there is a "detail" part they have that is literally 2 or 3 times too big.
After looking at reference photos, I cut it off, left the oversize base, and as there are a number of these connectors, I made 7 little hex nuts that are needed for the electric connections for brakes and brake/tail light.
I have a full spread of photos from someone that took a bunch of photos of one of the s FH18 guns on display and those photos have been a huge help.
Looking ahead and testing fit and all has been a good thing. I did a rework of the ends of the carriage arms as those were completely off, now they are only about 1/3 off. I will try and get some photos up on that mess in the next few days.
It isn't just your MFH kits Paddy, it is about any big complex kit on the market these days. The big gun I am working on has some accuracy issues that make it not feasible to assemble in transport mode. There are a couple of carriage/gun mount locks that don't line up. It is because who ever did the pattern layout did not take the time to understand how everything works, thus they are about 4-5mm off from where they need to be. There are about 8-10 other items that are off and would make the transport setup all wonky but won't be an issue if set up for firing mode.
Then there is a "detail" part they have that is literally 2 or 3 times too big.
After looking at reference photos, I cut it off, left the oversize base, and as there are a number of these connectors, I made 7 little hex nuts that are needed for the electric connections for brakes and brake/tail light.I have a full spread of photos from someone that took a bunch of photos of one of the s FH18 guns on display and those photos have been a huge help.
Looking ahead and testing fit and all has been a good thing. I did a rework of the ends of the carriage arms as those were completely off, now they are only about 1/3 off. I will try and get some photos up on that mess in the next few days.
