centaur567
Well-known member
Time to get the Dremel tool out.
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American Southwest, Circa 1876, Sioux Warriors vs US 7th Cavalry
- Thread starter Steve Ski
- Start date
My plastic nuclear option is not fission but fusion and no Dremels, or any motor tools, required!
Here it is without having to go to my non-existant Patreon page:
Dips in hot water to make the neck pliable allowed the head halves to be glued together.
Large gaps appeared when the body halves were glued together. HUGE, as in gaping canyons, appeared between the head and body. Out came the SCIGRIP Weld*On #4, a metal bowl, and tiny pieces of sprue runners cut along with shavings that happened while knocking down seam lines. Yes, this is sprue-glue but the main difference is that it is ALWAYS fresh and made with the same plastic as the kit. So, small batches. Stretched sprue, from the same kit, filled gaps and then covered with the Sprue Goo (or sprue-glue, I don't know the actual name as I had been doing this for a very long time). After letting it cure about 20 hours, out came the sanding paper, sanding films, and various files, after which I brushed on SCIGRIP Weld*On #4 to even things out.
Hopefully, @Steve Ski will post a photo showing the gaps! Yes, I could have used epoxy putty, like Milliput, but I did mention that it was an opportunity for content for my non-existant Patreon page.
Geess..sounds toxic!
Steve Ski
Well-known member
Qucik update.
I just got Saul's box in this the other day, thank you, Brother, and boy howdy, was I shocked, and impressed. I don't have pics yet, still fighting outside work, but as soon as I can, I will post the work he has done and just exactly what he was up against. I already told him, I would have ditched this kit from the start, but he hung in there and fought the good fight, and did an incredible job. This last one will not be fun, but I've made the commitment to do it, so I'll do it. It's one of those,.........."When your hind quarters and elbows in alligators, ya begin to wonder why ya came to drain the swamp," kinda thang, HA!
I will put up a full run-down, from start to finish. These two larger scale Big Dogs are exactly what I need to get not only the painting figured out, but the study of muscle structures, etc., shadows, highlights. Full emersion is the only logical way for me to learn something new, so I'm all in.
I'll get this going as soon as I can, Gents. Ruck On, Bby!
I just got Saul's box in this the other day, thank you, Brother, and boy howdy, was I shocked, and impressed. I don't have pics yet, still fighting outside work, but as soon as I can, I will post the work he has done and just exactly what he was up against. I already told him, I would have ditched this kit from the start, but he hung in there and fought the good fight, and did an incredible job. This last one will not be fun, but I've made the commitment to do it, so I'll do it. It's one of those,.........."When your hind quarters and elbows in alligators, ya begin to wonder why ya came to drain the swamp," kinda thang, HA!
I will put up a full run-down, from start to finish. These two larger scale Big Dogs are exactly what I need to get not only the painting figured out, but the study of muscle structures, etc., shadows, highlights. Full emersion is the only logical way for me to learn something new, so I'm all in.
I'll get this going as soon as I can, Gents. Ruck On, Bby!
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@Steve Ski, good luck! Seriously, if I can do it, so can you. I went the path less traveled as I wanted to test an old school technique. As @Rhino can attest, old school is sometimes the best school!
Should I do it again, I would dip the neck into very hot water to make it pliable and meet the other half. A thought I had, but didn't try was to glue the head (but the neck won't come together thanks to warping. Once cured, I hold by snout and only dip the neck into the aforementioned hot water until the halves can be made to meet.
Add sheets of styrene as gussets (alignment tabs) to join to body (which should be as bad as the neck. Use two part epoxy putty (Tamiya, Milliput, Green World, whatever you have on hand) to fill in the gaps. Any of these allows you to use a water moistened sponge or cotton swab to 'sculpt/smooth' the joints. Also use said putty to make your gender neutral horse into a mare or stallion.
Should I do it again, I would dip the neck into very hot water to make it pliable and meet the other half. A thought I had, but didn't try was to glue the head (but the neck won't come together thanks to warping. Once cured, I hold by snout and only dip the neck into the aforementioned hot water until the halves can be made to meet.
Add sheets of styrene as gussets (alignment tabs) to join to body (which should be as bad as the neck. Use two part epoxy putty (Tamiya, Milliput, Green World, whatever you have on hand) to fill in the gaps. Any of these allows you to use a water moistened sponge or cotton swab to 'sculpt/smooth' the joints. Also use said putty to make your gender neutral horse into a mare or stallion.
Steve Ski
Well-known member
Excellent tips, Saul. I was thinking of using mini-clamps when dunking to help add pressure on the halves to get them to come together, we'll see. If I can get em close enough the anatomical proportion issue might not be an issue anymore. Your old school approach did the trick on the first one as I didn't see much sanding required for such an operation. Impressive!
I'll log it as I go and get some pics before surgery begins.
I'll log it as I go and get some pics before surgery begins.
I'd advise against that as the plastic may get too soft and the mini-clamps leave a mark thereby giving you more work.
Since resin is a type of plastic, the hat water method will work. I mentioned this in detail, even have a little movie (if I find it) on how to here:
How to deal with warped resin parts
Same technique as resin is a type of plastic.
Rhino
Super Moderator
In some cases, Liquid Polyurethane Plastic. Helmet water works better on my castings.Same technique as resin is a type of plastic.
paddy
Well-known member
ahh just found this thread....Horses, white metal, what could go wrong Back in the day Mrs Paddy had a few horses, all ex race retired, terrible highly strung things that cost me a fortune couldnt stand them myself.....I put the first one i a field and it ate the entire field, bunged itself up solid. The vet put a hose pipe down its throat and poured a gallon of oil down it, then it spent a week in the "hospital" un bunging itself ...
Second one i was leading down the path and it got spooked by a puddle, reared up and disapeared.... That was the start of by return to bachelor hood
..never looked back.
Back in the day Mrs Paddy had a few horses, all ex race retired, terrible highly strung things that cost me a fortune couldnt stand them myself.....I put the first one i a field and it ate the entire field, bunged itself up solid. The vet put a hose pipe down its throat and poured a gallon of oil down it, then it spent a week in the "hospital" un bunging itself ...Second one i was leading down the path and it got spooked by a puddle, reared up and disapeared.... That was the start of by return to bachelor hood
..never looked back.
paddy
Well-known member
Yea but there are many different types and resin like i am using on the MHF kits is Acetone proof where as Acetone will melt kit plastic with just the fumes. i expect the glues will be the same , i use a slow set CA
True @paddy, but we were discussing the technique of heating the parts to get them more pliable.
If you posted that on the Vinyl Frankenstein figure thread, you would be more than right!
