Working With Photo Etch (PE)

[Tony lee]

Hi Everybody
A few days ago I was ask if I would put something together for the forum about working with PE.
I'm no expert by any means and about all I can do is show you how I go about it. I'm sure there are many others that have a better way of doing it and from time to time maybe they will contribute to this SBS if you want to call it that.

First off there are many companies out there that supply the modeler with Photo Etch sets,Aber,Voyager,Eduard,Griffon and Part just to name a few. Some people love one brand over another and bad mouth the ones they don't care for. For me they all have their good or bad points so I just work with the hand i'm dealt and make the best of it.

If you have a model that you feel needs some help in the detail department and PE is the answer you'll have to do some research to find what brand or brands have what you're looking for. Just like plastic kits not all PE companies have sets in production for every model kit but they might have a set that you can use as a substitute. I bought the Dragon M7 Priest and at the time there was not a PE set produced for it but Eduards has one for the Academy M7. The Eduards set was not a perfect fit but close enough for me to work with.

Not too long ago you would buy a PE set and it would have everything you needed and some you didn't, in one package. These days most are broken up into area packs like fender sets,interior sets or exterior sets and premium sets that have it all,you pay for what you need.

This is a first time for me and being just an old country boy I ain't going to get technical or use big words on you,i'll make it as clear and understandable as I can through words and pictures.
I'm not going to take a PE set for a model and build the whole thing for you but I will show you how I assemble components such as boxes,hinges,fenders and tool clasp etc. (I build Self Propelled Gun tanks by the way) but there is no reason that the techniques used won't work for other subjects too.

After I build lets say a box, i'll leave you time to ask questions before moving on to the next project.
Suggestions as to how you folks would like this tutorial to proceed or request for something in particular sing out now because they will be most welcome.

The plan is not to disappoint, just remember i'm no expert and I could learn something from you too.

My Pleasure
Tony lee

 

[Tony lee]

TOOLS

For removing the parts from the PE sprues I use the X-acto knives and the PE scissors,the black thing under those is a piece of plexiglass used as a cutting surface.
To the right of that is the Hold-N-Fold bending tool. The aluminum block and dowels are for bending the radius needed for some parts like muffler covers and shell holders etc.

Down front is an assortment of old dental tools the dentist gave me and I use those for all kinds of task.
The needle nose pliers and tweezers along with the back of my thumb nail are used on the smaller parts to make bends that the heavy equipment can't handle.

To stick this stuff together i'll solder the things I feel will be stressed and use the Gator Grip Glue for just about everything else including installing parts on the model.
I got the re-chargeable soldering gun,flux and low temp solder from Micro Mark. If you've got plenty of hands to do what needs to be done you won't need the Third Hand rig.
The old small pointed brushes and tooth picks are used to apply flux and glue where needed.

And last but not least: Even Tony Montana has a little friend and these are mine. A #5 for normal work and a #10 Optivisor for the really really small stuff.

That's about it boys and girls.If I missed anything else that I use i'll point it out as we go.

The End of this segment.:Hiay
Tony lee

 

[Sharkmouth]

It looks like my own small investment in The Small Shop products! :P

Regards,

 

[panzerace007]

DUDES,

Great Start so Far Tony !!!! :dude


TH SMALL SHOP ROX ! I too have th P.E. roller set & it's already paid for itself.

Now, I have a question & forgive me if I'm jumping th Gun, But I have this on th Horizon ... Do I need anything different to soldier Stainless P.E. that soldiering brass P.E. ? I have some folding Gates for the Sd.Kfz 7/1 from Griffon that are Stainless (I think) I think I'm gonna need to soldier them. ?

Any Help ?

ERIK

 

[AndyFettes]

I`m not the only one then, with a 5 and a 10

 

[tanktrax]

Tony,

When using photo-etch are there times you have to use solder or can you always use glue - even though solder may be easier?

My experience with photo-etch to this point has been fairly limited.

John

 

[moon puppy]

I would suggest using solder on items that are structure or support type items. Something that may take pressure from handling and what not. But I'm into self abuse and I attempt to solder everything at the cost of feelings in my fingertips....

 

[Leopard2]

Nice start on this SBS, Tony. I hope it will help me to overcome my Photo Etch-O-Phobia. I already have most of the tools at my disposal. But here is a question. That aluminum block, is it custom made or did you buy it somewhere? SO far when I needed something rounded I tried to wrap it around either the handle of my exacto knife or something else round but it seems I never get radius even close.

Joe

 

[Tony lee]

Good Morning to you :Hiay
Questions to be answered:
Erik wants to know if he can solder Stainless? I never tried to solder stainless. Flux a spot on it and see if the solder flows on it. If all you get is little ball of solder it ain't sticking.

John: Pup has the same idea I have about what I solder. Take the storage boxes I just finished for the Emile,I soldered the straps that hold the box in its base everything else is glued. I soldered the straps because I knew I had to bend them over the box and hook the two together and that would require pressure to do and glue would more than likely pop loose.

Joe: The roller block came with my Hold-N-Fold but you can buy it separately from the Small Shop.
http://thesmallshop.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3
You can also use drill shanks to get that perfect radius too. On the larger or thicker parts you might anneal the part to get it to roll with less effort too.

Thanks for your comments and questions troops
Tony lee

 

[Leopard2]

Thanks Tony. After looking at the price of it I think I go with wood dowels and drill blanks....lol.

Joe

 

[jknaus]

Great start Tony. Could you give a company name and part number for the flux? I cant get any around here and I'm not having much luck in my searches. Also what brand of solder do you use? Thanks.
James

 

[Tony lee]

As they say Joe "There's more than one way to skin a cat"

Here you go James
http://www.micromark.com/Solder-Tools-and-Electrical-Accessories.html
Just scroll down a little and you'll see the solder and flux I use.
When I did gun repair I found these brands to be very useful.

Let me know if you need more info buddy
Tony lee

 

[moon puppy]

Good Morning to you :Hiay
Questions to be answered:
Erik wants to know if he can solder Stainless? I never tried to solder stainless. Flux a spot on it and see if the solder flows on it. If all you get is little ball of solder it ain't sticking.

I don't think we're going to get Stainless Steel hot enough to solder in our hobby world of flame throwers. Takes acetylene torch to solder stainless. Butane or even propane ain't gonna get that hot.

 

[Tony lee]

HINGES

Hey, you ready to make something?:woohoo: Since i've already got the pictures from another post how about we start with making "HINGES".

When I first started to take on Photo Etch, hinges and tools clasp made me want to pull me hair out. Hinges are a walk in the park now but those tool clasp, because of their size, still keep me fluent with bad word usage.hmy:

Normally I just make these on my bench mat but I placed a black card under the piece for clarity.

Your common hinge parts be it two tabs,fingers or leafs as some call them, or more.

I start out by turning up the tabs a little with one of those dental picks I showed you in the tool segment by placing the tool at the junction of the tab and mounting plate and press down.

When you place the two halves together you've formed a little trough for the hinge wire to rest in.

I use Tamiya tape and tape the whole works down to the mat including the wire. Tamiya tape is sticky enough to hole everything in place but not so sticky as to make it hard to remove when the job is complete.

With hinges that have multiple tabs like this one i'll roll the tabs over the wire on each end and the middle with the back of my Xacto knife to help hold the wire centered while I roll the remaining tabs over the wire.

All the tabs have been rolled over the hinge wire now.

Now we're going to tighten up the tabs around the wire for a neater looking hinge point.
I use a small steel rule to backup the opposite side while I press a small thin flat bladed screw driver
against the tab ends at their base.

When you've got one side done switch sides and repeat on the other.

All we've got to do now is remove the tape,pull the wire till it's flush on one end and trim off the extra on the opposite end.
A working hinge without having a nervous rigor fit.:gogo

NOTE
If you don't plan to have a working hinge just glue it down but you'll need to solder it down to be on the safe side if you want to show off your skills. Be sure to not get carried away with solder and keep it out of the rotating hinge.

Panzerace does his like this:
https://www.modelersalliance.com/forum/Tips-and-Tricks/29138-WORKABLE-HINGES-GRIFFON-STYLE---135TH-Scale

Are you bored yet
Tony lee

 

[Tony lee]

Let me go back to a previous question for a second while it's on my mind.
People have ask about soldering aluminum and some PE sets have aluminum parts or they make things from pop and beer can aluminum.

You can buy Aluminum Solder at some hardware stores and basically the solder is made with pure tin and not lead.

"Now You Know the Rest of the Story"
Tony lee

 

[jknaus]

Do you use that Tix solder Tony or regular rolls of solder. Seem kind of expensive so before I try and order I'd like to know. It so why is it better?? Thanks and great thread so far. Lookiong forward to more.
James

 

[moon puppy]

HINGES


Now we're going to tighten up the tabs around the wire for a neater looking hinge point.
I use a small steel rule to backup the opposite side while I press a small thin flat bladed screw driver
against the tab ends at their base.

I think this is what I have been missing on tucking up the hinges. Thanks Tony! Really great thread...even though you're using photobucket...

 

[Tony lee]

Do you use that Tix solder Tony or regular rolls of solder. Seem kind of expensive so before I try and order I'd like to know. It so why is it better?? Thanks and great thread so far. Lookiong forward to more.
James

Yep the Tix solder and flux. It's low temp solder plus it's strong. No I wouldn't recommend it for plumbing work but for no more than you use with PE it goes a long way. Regular solid core solder will work too.

Pup that's why i'm doing this, to make it easier now than it was for me in the beginning.

Thanks Guys I need the encouragement too.
Tony lee

 

[Tony lee]

Well here I am again.:hmmm I was going to post this blurt tomorrow but the weather man predicts possible heavy storms and I pull the plug on my computer when that happens.

"Tool Clasp or Clamps"

I thought I would get this over and out of the way because I think a lot of you are waiting just for this
and nothing else.hyeah

Here's what they give you for instructions and as for the rest you're on your own.

This type is a working clamp and most all the PE brands have them so i'll start with these first.
A fret of parts with a #11 Xacto knife just for scale

The three bits that make up a clamp. From right to left, the base, next the clamping strap and then the yoke handle.

With the bends made. You can make any fit adjustment bends after it's assembled.
Did you notice I didn't bend the yoke handle all the way square but left a little spread to aid in inserting the pivot bars on the other two parts in those holes.
This cheap camera doesn't do so well with real close ups,sorry

OK here we go. The handle has two holes on each side,one for the base pivot and one for the clamp strap pivot.
Start with the clamp strap first. The Clamp strap goes in the holes to the inside toward the handle proper.
The part that gives everybody fits is keeping those hair size pivot bars in the holes while putting this nightmare together.

My secret is: Put just a very small dab of Gator Grip Glue over the hole on one side. this helps to keep that little bugger in its place while you get the other side in the hole where it belongs.
Also a piece of double sided tape will help some too.

Now that the clamp strap is in place we can TRY and get this mounted on the clamp base.
If you put the strap where it should be you'll see a pair of holes in the yoke on the ends for the base pivot bars. From closing the yoke together during the strap install you might need to re-spread the tip again.
Again, put a spot of Gator Grip over one of the holes like above for the same reason and keep gritting your teeth until your able to get the other pivot bar in its hole and the yoke ends pinch together to hold it there.

Guess What,you did it.

YEAAAAAAaaaaaaaaa

Good old Griffon Models offers you an alternative:
You can find these in their Early/Late Clamp set. They're non working but remember you gave up on the working models.:idonno

Theirs are only two parts and "Even a Caveman can do it":woohoo:

A little folding but what do you want for easy?

One more Alternative for those that even failed the Griffon clamp.
The regular stock kit tool with the clamp molded on it.

Cut the yoke handle off and if you can find that PE clamp you threw across the room,glue the brass yoke on the remains of the molded clamp like so.

It's not cheating,lets just call it desperation.

Glad that's over,I need to lie down now.
With the hinges and tool clamps all done anything else in that Photo Etch set has got to be GRAVY.

Enjoy and i'll try and answer any questions you might have.
Thanks
Tony lee

 

[Sherman 18]

You make it look so easy!

I love how you do the hinges. WOW!

Thanks for taking some of your time for this. Very useful.