This is a new one on me! I've got a small bottle of Zap CA Thin, and the stuff has lost it's will to actually glue anything. I've had the stuff harden in the bottle (who hasn't?), but this stuff doesn't even react to accelerator. Off to the store for some fresh, I guess! :pinch:
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What the what? Thin CA won't dry.
- Thread starter chukw
- Start date
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Stumps me Chuck. I have some accelerator that is 20 years old and it is so potent it will make the CA froth up if I put it on it. It has always tended to do that so nothing from age. :hmmm
Yep, think it has to do with humidity. I've seen it get to the point that it's, well pointless.
phantom II
Master at Arms
2 14.8K
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It is well known that when super glue gets on something it does not come free very easily, but what about getting it to stick where you want it to more quickly? The key here is in heat and air circulation techniques that can be applied in several very simple ways. You will want to be sure to follow all warning labels on the bottle to avoid harm to yourself while working with this material.
1. Super Glue is Temperature Sensitive
One thing that is not really known is that super glue is temperature sensitive. If you apply a little amount of warm air to the joint you are sealing using a hair dryer on low heat it will harden faster than under normal conditions. Temperature increases help the molecules in the glue to move faster, forcing them to find a home and bond quickly. This same rule applies in storing your unused glue, and can cause the tube to harden or become solid prematurely.
2. Super Glue Needs Air Flow to Set
You can also set the piece in a fan area or point a fan at it, as the oxygen being pushed onto the seam causes the super glue to bond more quickly. These are simple science tricks to help assist in getting the glue to work faster than what it naturally does. You can use a ventilation fan or any other device that simply moves the air evenly around the area where you work is sitting. Be sure that if you are using a large amount of glue or are applying multiple applications that you keep the area well ventilated to avoid sickness and chemical euphoria.
3. Clamping and Bracing Your Project Helps
You can clamp the pieces together that have the super glue applied to them to force out excess and cause the joint to bond more readily. The other thing here is when you clamp your pieces together firmly there is less chance for the two parts to move while drying, which can cause an offset glue position. When this occurs, you will need to apply acetone to remove and reset the pieces, hopefully maintaining their structure and stability in the process.
4. Make a Super Glue Mixture
A really good trick is to apply a small pinch of baking soda to the super glue on a scrap piece and apply it from this. The baking soda speeds the bonding potential of the glue, making it stronger and dry quicker. Be careful, as this will nearly bond and harden immediately, so you will want to be fast with using this application. Again, if the bonding goes bad, use acetone to try to clean up the work area and then make a second attempt. Just be cautious, as doing this accelerates the glue's drying and hardening time.
Editor's Picks
9 Must-Have Tools Every Renter Needs at Home
How to Cut Curves in Wood
Leaving Town? Where to Hide Things
BBQ Shopping Guide
Making the Most of Small Spaces
It is well known that when super glue gets on something it does not come free very easily, but what about getting it to stick where you want it to more quickly? The key here is in heat and air circulation techniques that can be applied in several very simple ways. You will want to be sure to follow all warning labels on the bottle to avoid harm to yourself while working with this material.
1. Super Glue is Temperature Sensitive
One thing that is not really known is that super glue is temperature sensitive. If you apply a little amount of warm air to the joint you are sealing using a hair dryer on low heat it will harden faster than under normal conditions. Temperature increases help the molecules in the glue to move faster, forcing them to find a home and bond quickly. This same rule applies in storing your unused glue, and can cause the tube to harden or become solid prematurely.
2. Super Glue Needs Air Flow to Set
You can also set the piece in a fan area or point a fan at it, as the oxygen being pushed onto the seam causes the super glue to bond more quickly. These are simple science tricks to help assist in getting the glue to work faster than what it naturally does. You can use a ventilation fan or any other device that simply moves the air evenly around the area where you work is sitting. Be sure that if you are using a large amount of glue or are applying multiple applications that you keep the area well ventilated to avoid sickness and chemical euphoria.
3. Clamping and Bracing Your Project Helps
You can clamp the pieces together that have the super glue applied to them to force out excess and cause the joint to bond more readily. The other thing here is when you clamp your pieces together firmly there is less chance for the two parts to move while drying, which can cause an offset glue position. When this occurs, you will need to apply acetone to remove and reset the pieces, hopefully maintaining their structure and stability in the process.
4. Make a Super Glue Mixture
A really good trick is to apply a small pinch of baking soda to the super glue on a scrap piece and apply it from this. The baking soda speeds the bonding potential of the glue, making it stronger and dry quicker. Be careful, as this will nearly bond and harden immediately, so you will want to be fast with using this application. Again, if the bonding goes bad, use acetone to try to clean up the work area and then make a second attempt. Just be cautious, as doing this accelerates the glue's drying and hardening time.
Thanks Chris but what does CA have to do with BBQ? 
Thanks, guys! This one's a real mystery. I'm gluing bits of solder wire to resin that's been washed and scrubbed. Our humidity here in SoCal is perilously low. I did get a larger area to set up, but the join simply crumbled at the slightest pressure. The thick Gorilla stuff set up fast- and solidly. I'll keep experimenting, but this has me stymied. Maybe that little bottle is hexed by an evil spirit!
Needless to say, I'm detailing up the cockpit in the MiG- bench time has been sparse, to say the least!
Needless to say, I'm detailing up the cockpit in the MiG- bench time has been sparse, to say the least!
phantom II
Master at Arms
Thanks Chris but what does CA have to do with BBQ?
Maybe if you apply a bit of baking soda to the BBQ ?
phantom II
Master at Arms
Thanks, guys! This one's a real mystery. I'm gluing bits of solder wire to resin that's been washed and scrubbed. Our humidity here in SoCal is perilously low. I did get a larger area to set up, but the join simply crumbled at the slightest pressure. The thick Gorilla stuff set up fast- and solidly. I'll keep experimenting, but this has me stymied. Maybe that little bottle is hexed by an evil spirit!
Needless to say, I'm detailing up the cockpit in the MiG- bench time has been sparse, to say the least!
Chuck have you tried Goop Yet ? I have not but I'm intrigued :idonno
ausf
Master at Arms
I believe CA is in the same family of isocyanates that is in urethane resin. The MDIs in resin are so moisture sensitive that they are rendered useless if exposed to air for any length of time. I break down gallons into smaller quart vessels for easier handling but also because I don't want to lose $100 worth of resin on a humid day. I keep the quart sealed, in a sealed bag and as it is, the bag collects crusty dust in the bottom. The dust is the what's left of the MDI that was left on the cap after closing that combined with the water in the air in the bag.
I have a friend who had a minor isocyanate spill is a lab he worked in. The day after cleanup, every surface that had water on it, was crusted over with the stuff.
I guess it's possible that moisture bonded with something in your CA and left only the carrier.
I have a friend who had a minor isocyanate spill is a lab he worked in. The day after cleanup, every surface that had water on it, was crusted over with the stuff.
I guess it's possible that moisture bonded with something in your CA and left only the carrier.
Is it true that we can extend CA live by refrigerating it?
phantom II
Master at Arms
Good to know, now the question is do I lose enough glue to justify a $125. cheapo fridge. :facepalm
ausf
Master at Arms
It's not the cost of the fridge, it's the brown bottles of ale-sulation the CA must be surrounded by in the fridge that adds up. :drinks
Prop Duster
Member
Moon Puppy, ausf is right, Sooo get TWO refrigerators, one for CA,
one for "liquid relaxant" :drinks
