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WDS' M4A3 (105mm) HVSS Sherman
- Thread starter bob letterman
- Start date
wds
Active member
Thanks Bob! Thanks James,
OK! Here is the first round of dry-brushing using the Humbrol enamels.
Following directions to the letter, I mixed the 72 Khaki drill and the 66 olive drab and got a very unsatisfying result. Backstory: The (raw umber and turp) wash has left the model dark and leaning well into the brown range. That’s is what it is, and I understand that we can lighten or even change color. So… I applied the dry-brush mix and found that it was leaning towards a grey/blue hue (to my eye)! I was sure I must have got the colors wrong or that the paint was mislabeled. After triple checking every thing (and the tins have a sticker on the bottom with the color number) I took matters into my own hands and mixed the 66 OD with 159 Khaki drab (which looks more like OD green to me!) and dry brushed that mix. This mix is taking it more in the direction that I want (back to a greener green). The paints do work well and I think that I’m getting the hang of the subtle dry-brush technique.
Mix on the the left is the recomened one. Mix on the right is the one used.
Model with first round of drybrushing with the custom mix.
Another problem is that while a picture may be worth 1K words, if the colors aren’t represented well, they only convey misinformation and don’t help at all. While I have tried to document my progress, the photos don’t accurately portay what my eye is seeing. Sorry. For example see the two photos below. They were taken in the same session with the same camera one after another. I think the camera is shifting between “Macro” and “portrait “ mode and you can see the different results. What color is it? Not even either of these.
Soldiering on and having Big fun,
Bill
v295
OK! Here is the first round of dry-brushing using the Humbrol enamels.
Following directions to the letter, I mixed the 72 Khaki drill and the 66 olive drab and got a very unsatisfying result. Backstory: The (raw umber and turp) wash has left the model dark and leaning well into the brown range. That’s is what it is, and I understand that we can lighten or even change color. So… I applied the dry-brush mix and found that it was leaning towards a grey/blue hue (to my eye)! I was sure I must have got the colors wrong or that the paint was mislabeled. After triple checking every thing (and the tins have a sticker on the bottom with the color number) I took matters into my own hands and mixed the 66 OD with 159 Khaki drab (which looks more like OD green to me!) and dry brushed that mix. This mix is taking it more in the direction that I want (back to a greener green). The paints do work well and I think that I’m getting the hang of the subtle dry-brush technique.
Mix on the the left is the recomened one. Mix on the right is the one used.
Model with first round of drybrushing with the custom mix.
Another problem is that while a picture may be worth 1K words, if the colors aren’t represented well, they only convey misinformation and don’t help at all. While I have tried to document my progress, the photos don’t accurately portay what my eye is seeing. Sorry. For example see the two photos below. They were taken in the same session with the same camera one after another. I think the camera is shifting between “Macro” and “portrait “ mode and you can see the different results. What color is it? Not even either of these.
Soldiering on and having Big fun,
Bill
v295
Thanks Bob! Thanks James,
OK! Here is the first round of dry-brushing using the Humbrol enamels.
Following directions to the letter, I mixed the 72 Khaki drill and the 66 olive drab and got a very unsatisfying result. Backstory: The (raw umber and turp) wash has left the model dark and leaning well into the brown range. That’s is what it is, and I understand that we can lighten or even change color. So… I applied the dry-brush mix and found that it was leaning towards a grey/blue hue (to my eye)! I was sure I must have got the colors wrong or that the paint was mislabeled. After triple checking every thing (and the tins have a sticker on the bottom with the color number) I took matters into my own hands and mixed the 66 OD with 159 Khaki drab (which looks more like OD green to me!) and dry brushed that mix. This mix is taking it more in the direction that I want (back to a greener green). The paints do work well and I think that I’m getting the hang of the subtle dry-brush technique.
Another problem is that while a picture may be worth 1K words, if the colors aren’t represented well, they only convey misinformation and don’t help at all. While I have tried to document my progress, the photos don’t accurately portay what my eye is seeing. Sorry. For example see the two photos below. They were taken in the same session with the same camera one after another. I think the camera is shifting between “Macro” and “portrait “ mode and you can see the different results. What color is it? Not even either of these.
Soldiering on and having Big fun,
Bill
v295
Bill,
Let me start by saying that whatever you used or did, it looks great! Let's see, what color is olive drab? I have seen it brownish, which I prefer, and greenish and everything in between. I have always used 72 and 66 and have never once seen anything like a grey/blue color. I buy khaki drill by the case, always have, because I use it on everything. What does puzzle me, is how you lightened it from the raw umber wash using those two colors which are both relatively dark. Matt 72 is a relatively light color, I use it to paint khaki summer uniforms from WW II. Very strange.
The camera thing I do understand. I believe you are right about the camera. I don't use an auto function. I use a programmed setting and get similar results every time. When I have used the auto mode, all sorts of things can change the hue and get the results you did, from an almost green to an almost brown. If I remember correctly, olive drab is a combination of red, blue, yellow and black, the yellow changes the blue to green, and the red to brown and the black from light to dark. (I could be wrong on that combination). But, supposing that is correct, you can see how a grey/blue is possible, it just has never happened to me.
After the details are painted, weathered and affixed to the Diamond T, there is a final stage of dry brushing that highlights specific areas. I do that with straight matt 72. You will have to experiment on the bottom of the hull when we get there as I'm not sure if you should be using that with your color combinations.
Of the two photos at the bottom above, which would you say is the closest to what color you see with the naked eye? The left or the right?
Oh, and how many parts of 72 compared to parts 66 did you mix to get that grey/blue combination?
Bob
Bob
James, did you order the humbrol from CRM? Whoever you ordered it from needs to check it because it shouldn't have taken that long. Of course, I don't live in Cold Lake so maybe that isn't unusual?
I know Canadian customs is notorious for seizing shipments containing hobby paint.
Bob
razordws
Well-known member
I've had stuff stuck in customs for 6 weeks or more. Hope it doesn't take that long for you James. Patience. :zen
wds
Active member
Greetings Bob,
Thanks for the complement! I’m sure grey/blue is the wrong word or description. It is just what my eye saw at the moment, and only a reaction to what my brain was expecting versus what I was seeing. Evaluating (or describing) colors is an extremely subjective (in my mind) endeavor. It isn’t even a “grey area”. Grey would be easy. It is a green-brown-blue-fill in the blank area, with a nearly infinite number of permutations. That is why it is frustrating to not be able to take representative pictures of the colors. I think that in the end, we all just need to find the look of the color that we want.
I certainly didn’t mean to disparage in any way or form. The techniques that you are demonstrating are fantastic. It continues to be an exciting series of discoveries. I’ m already thinking ahead to what model I will do next and how I might tweak the finish to my tastes.
Per your question: I think the one on the left (more brown) is closes to what the eye sees. No sooner did I type that from memory, then I went and got the model, and could see that it really is somewhere in-between. Laugh out loud. The mix (#72+#66) was an eye-ball mix. Maybe 50/50. The paint pallet on the magazine (top picture in my previous post) is a good representation.
Anyway, thanks again for the input and feed back. I’m looking forward to the next steps.
Cheers,
Bill
Photo caption: "You/I just can’t tell"
V352
Thanks for the complement! I’m sure grey/blue is the wrong word or description. It is just what my eye saw at the moment, and only a reaction to what my brain was expecting versus what I was seeing. Evaluating (or describing) colors is an extremely subjective (in my mind) endeavor. It isn’t even a “grey area”. Grey would be easy. It is a green-brown-blue-fill in the blank area, with a nearly infinite number of permutations. That is why it is frustrating to not be able to take representative pictures of the colors. I think that in the end, we all just need to find the look of the color that we want.
I certainly didn’t mean to disparage in any way or form. The techniques that you are demonstrating are fantastic. It continues to be an exciting series of discoveries. I’ m already thinking ahead to what model I will do next and how I might tweak the finish to my tastes.
Per your question: I think the one on the left (more brown) is closes to what the eye sees. No sooner did I type that from memory, then I went and got the model, and could see that it really is somewhere in-between. Laugh out loud. The mix (#72+#66) was an eye-ball mix. Maybe 50/50. The paint pallet on the magazine (top picture in my previous post) is a good representation.
Anyway, thanks again for the input and feed back. I’m looking forward to the next steps.
Cheers,
Bill
Photo caption: "You/I just can’t tell"
V352
wds
Active member
The broken bits were glued back on, and I attacked it with more of the Humbrol dry-brush.
Here we are (see photos) after three rounds of progressively lighter dry-brush applications with the #155 OD and #72 Khaki drill (I was happy to find my not so local hardware/hobby store stocks the Humbrol (for the time being) and they had the #155 in the rack). Included are some pictures shot outside in natural light. A very different look indeed. I think the tools need a tune up and then I’ll apply the pin wash with the raw umber next. The rubber band tracks have been sprayed with a dark grey mix and are ready for their wash. Thanks for looking. Questions and comments are always welcome.
Cheers,
Bill
v388
Here we are (see photos) after three rounds of progressively lighter dry-brush applications with the #155 OD and #72 Khaki drill (I was happy to find my not so local hardware/hobby store stocks the Humbrol (for the time being) and they had the #155 in the rack). Included are some pictures shot outside in natural light. A very different look indeed. I think the tools need a tune up and then I’ll apply the pin wash with the raw umber next. The rubber band tracks have been sprayed with a dark grey mix and are ready for their wash. Thanks for looking. Questions and comments are always welcome.
Cheers,
Bill
v388
Bill,
I really like it! The outdoor shots show it for what you have really done. If I was critiquing it, I couldn't find a single thing wrong with it!
I'm impressed! You got what it takes, my friend! Once this tutorial is over, you don't need any more tutoring!
That's a fact!
Bob
I really like it! The outdoor shots show it for what you have really done. If I was critiquing it, I couldn't find a single thing wrong with it!
I'm impressed! You got what it takes, my friend! Once this tutorial is over, you don't need any more tutoring!
That's a fact!
Bob
wds
Active member
Thanks Bob,
You are extremely generous with your assessment. I’m not sure I’m ready to solo yet, but thanks for the vote of confidence. Again, we all appreciate your taking the lead role on this instructional campaign and for keeping us on track. I’m loving every minute.
Cheers,
Bill
You are extremely generous with your assessment. I’m not sure I’m ready to solo yet, but thanks for the vote of confidence. Again, we all appreciate your taking the lead role on this instructional campaign and for keeping us on track. I’m loving every minute.
Cheers,
Bill
Sherman 18
Master at Arms
Looking good!
Outstanding Bill!
panzerace007
Active member
WDS,
No Doubt lookin Great ! I dig th subtle shadows & highlights !!
Keep on Rockin' !!
No Doubt lookin Great ! I dig th subtle shadows & highlights !!
Keep on Rockin' !!
wds
Active member
Thanks Sherm, Bob, and 007!
The tracks have been washed with the burnt sienna and dry brushed with a silver enamel, and then installed temporarily. A couple of pin washes with raw-umber have been applied to the raised detail as well. Tools and tow cable have been touched up. I will try the scratches and rust stains and then apply the mud and dirt to the lower hull and tracks.
Thanks for looking. (The idlers have not been set yet - hence their floppy look).
Cheeers,
Bill
v472
The tracks have been washed with the burnt sienna and dry brushed with a silver enamel, and then installed temporarily. A couple of pin washes with raw-umber have been applied to the raised detail as well. Tools and tow cable have been touched up. I will try the scratches and rust stains and then apply the mud and dirt to the lower hull and tracks.
Thanks for looking. (The idlers have not been set yet - hence their floppy look).
Cheeers,
Bill
v472
Looks really good Bill.
You are cautious, that isn't a criticism, it's a compliment. This is your first attempt at this style of weathering and you have been the ideal student. Once this is under your belt, new worlds will open to you and you can begin to experiment and become more bold.
Great job!
Bob
You are cautious, that isn't a criticism, it's a compliment. This is your first attempt at this style of weathering and you have been the ideal student. Once this is under your belt, new worlds will open to you and you can begin to experiment and become more bold.
Great job!
Bob
wds
Active member
Finished
Nine months! I guess time does fly when you are having fun (or not)!
This one has been mocking me from the shelf for some time …”No, no, no, don’t start another kit, I’m right here, all I need is tracks and a little mud. You can do it….. “. So, tracks and mud it is.
Thanks for the nice comments Bob. I am too cautious for my own good/enjoyment. Living and learning. Thanks again for mentoring.
Have a happy holiday season everyone!
Cheers,
Bill
v743
Nine months! I guess time does fly when you are having fun (or not)!
This one has been mocking me from the shelf for some time …”No, no, no, don’t start another kit, I’m right here, all I need is tracks and a little mud. You can do it….. “. So, tracks and mud it is.
Thanks for the nice comments Bob. I am too cautious for my own good/enjoyment. Living and learning. Thanks again for mentoring.
Have a happy holiday season everyone!
Cheers,
Bill
v743
Finished
Nine months! I guess time does fly when you are having fun (or not)!
This one has been mocking me from the shelf for some time …”No, no, no, don’t start another kit, I’m right here, all I need is tracks and a little mud. You can do it….. “. So, tracks and mud it is.
Thanks for the nice comments Bob. I am too cautious for my own good/enjoyment. Living and learning. Thanks again for mentoring.
Have a happy holiday season everyone!
Cheers,
Bill
v743
Great finish Bill
Sherman 18
Master at Arms
Outstanding Bill!
Excellent Bill,
Couldn't have done better myself!
Bob
Couldn't have done better myself!
Bob
