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Trumpeter 1/48 Cessna A-37B Dragonfly

Prep for Painting

All of you AC builders will recognize my shortcomings right off the bat, so no sense in trying to hide em, onward.

In an effort to keep this build moving along I stepped right into paint prep, and probably wasn’t exactly ready for it. Oh, I did get the canopy taped good and bomb racks installed ahead of the instructions, for good reason, but I didn’t fiddle with my airbrush enough. I’ll explain shortly.

I added some foam into the cockpit to help alleviate overspray mess. I’ll soon find out how well that worked, but I think it’s fine. I had to sand off some edges of the ejection seats to get the canopy to even come close to sitting in a fully closed position. Normally this would be from the seats not completely set in the cockpit tub, but not here. Not sure what that’s all about, but I got enough taken off the top to work the paint session.

As you can see below, the racks are installed early, minus the bomb sway bolts. If you wait until the recommended step you’ll easily lose many of the small fuselage antenna parts that will get knocked off during handling as the bomb racks can be testy to install.

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Why I’m feeling confident right now about no overspray in the cockpit is that I used very thin pieces of silly putty along the canopy sill since this canopy would not close completely. I made sure any oozing was cleaned off before the paint was applied. So far, so good, right?

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Then came the primer coat, no biggy, using Vallejo’s light grey, as I didn’t have any black primer on hand. The step I neglected was the panel line definitions after the primer, which is probably a good thing since my airbrush was spitting water. Yes, there is a condensation cup, water separator, but that was not making any difference. I switched to a smaller AB and didn’t have any issues once I began the camo pattern. Using AK’s elastic camo putty, I was able to get a decent rendition of the actual pattern we would have seen on the flight line in Panama, back in ‘85-‘87. I don’t have a ton of photos, but enough to get a fairly accurate idea of what colors went where.

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Using Tamiya paint and thinner I was able to get a decent layer placed on Tweety. I used XF-5 and XF-14 for the lighter green tone, XF-5 and XF-8 for the darker green, and I will be using XF-63 with a little touch of black for the grey tone.

Now, having been 40yrs since I had access to the paint barn on Howard AFB, I had to mix my own tones. Some are thinking these are a little dark, but those birds all wore dark camo tones. The O-2A, UH-1N, and the A-37B all had the same paint colors and basically the same tyle of pattern, and they were all dark. The jungle down there is dark, so went the birds. BTW, there is some room for some very light color modulation on the wings and fuselage, but only if my airbrush cooperates. I will be making some test runs beforehand.

Oh wow, did I say 40yrs earlier? Yep, wow! I built a Revell Heuy while I was stationed there and had my airbrush with me, too, so the paint shop was more than happy to get me small quantities of paint for my project. Looking at that same Huey that is on the shelf today, I’m pretty close.

The grey tone will be tomorrow with modulation following. I’m no pro AB guy, still learning. Hopefully I will remember the final painting sequences so I’m not having to repeat any steps unnecessarily, and get to the landing gear, canopy install, and weathering phase soon.

Thanks for watchin. Cheers, Ski.
 
Ok, so here's where I'm not sure what exactly you are saying. I think MP was trying to say the same thing, but I didn't understand it. So, for those of us who didn't get it the 10th time, could you please explain it again for me?

Jumping ahead of your response, what I thought MP was talking about was the canopy frame being primed in black first. Not sure what the difference is since I'll be taking it off to spray the inside dark grey and touching up the canopy sill. What am I missing here? Or are you talking about the clear canopy showing the fact that it's not a real frame, the clear plastic being still visible, even after I paint it all up? If that be the case, oops, too late, HA!
 
Jumping ahead of your response, what I thought MP was talking about was the canopy frame being primed in black first. Not sure what the difference is since I'll be taking it off to spray the inside dark grey and touching up the canopy sill. What am I missing here? Or are you talking about the clear canopy showing the fact that it's not a real frame, the clear plastic being still visible, even after I paint it all up? If that be the case, oops, too late, HA!
Coating all mating surfaces (even in a black Sharpie) keeps the clear plastic from reflecting on itself and the black gives the impression of rubber gaskets in use. Painting the clear parts, after masking, in black on ALL surfaces is better but you will remove that paint if there are fit issues so it is better to fix the fit first, then 'edge' the mating surfaces in black prior to gluing in place. Markers are thin ink which won't interfere with the cements we normally use.
 
Coating all mating surfaces (even in a black Sharpie) keeps the clear plastic from reflecting on itself and the black gives the impression of rubber gaskets in use. Painting the clear parts, after masking, in black on ALL surfaces is better but you will remove that paint if there are fit issues so it is better to fix the fit first, then 'edge' the mating surfaces in black prior to gluing in place. Markers are thin ink which won't interfere with the cements we normally use.
Ok, now I get it, dooooeeeeeeeee!:blush: This is actually an easy fix, as I can remove the camo paint and redo it correctly. Thanks for the added intel, Saul. I knew I was in a rush. I will see how best to remedy this issue.

Thanks yall!
 
To be totally honest, that's what I did on the VooDoo canopy all those years ago. I saw how the outer grey was showing up and stripped it, painted black and then outer colors again.
:pilot
Roger that, MP. I didn't need to strip any paint, just went over it with black and then the interior color, and it appears to have done the trick. I also realized I'm dangerously low on XF-1, yikes! This canopy black trim is one of those essential steps I would have missed not being a regular bird builder.

Another thing I'm noticing that I normally don't bother with is latex gloves. I can see the need to keep the finger grease off the camo paint, but even decent fitting gloves make for a pain in the tuckus dealing with parts and bird handling. A necessary evil I'll need to get used to if I'm going to build more of these kits.

No pics yet, but I had to darken the grey tone a bit more, added XF-8 Blue to bring the tone in line with the rest. I think it'll work once all the washes and mild weathering are done. I do remember Col. Fowler was a stickler for clean birds, the wash rack was always busy.

Thanks for the help, Gents!
 
As for the gloves, you don't need them all the time. For most of my building I just handle the kit bare fingers like always.

This time with my Me-410 build, I was noticing in handling the plastic plane (before paint) that it had become a little on the gooey/oily side. Not a problem while building, but it needed some for thought before spraying paint.

Before spraying I put on some somewhat snug gloves and took some cotton balls and wiped it down real well with 409 to remove all the oils. Then I wiped it down with some alcohol and let it dry completely. Then made sure there were no cotton strands on the model. I had no trouble with the old Model Master paint I used.

Once the paint was fully dried and set I have been handling with bare fingers again with no problems.
 
Roger that, so I'm not going to be tied to gloves all the time. I do see the need until I get a clear coat on there, but after that I should be good. I just like how the Tamiya paint has laid down so "hard" flat, and I don't want to mess that up.
 
Redoing the Camo

These colors I had chosen and sprayed for the camo pattern were beginning to bother me, so after some further intense photo reviews I decided to strip the bird and do it again. And that’s a good thing, because upon closer inspection the overlap spray marks were beginning to look more intense the more I looked at them, HA! Not being a pro at Paint Shop Pro I used a marker tool to outline the problem areas on the wings, but there were other locations of concern as well.

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Stripping the camo paint and primer was not as difficult as I was expecting. I used oven cleaner and an old tooth brush. I taped over the cockpit and kept the spray away from it, water too. I had to get down to the bare plastic, then use a tooth pick and dental tool to clean-up some of the panel details, taking about an hour and a half.

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After making several attempts at the true colors, as far as I can tell, I believe I’ve got it. I dabbed a blob of each tone on a hanger photo and was satisfied with what I had. Now, obviously indoor pics will show much differently than outdoor, but this photo gave a more neutral appearance, in betwixt, so that was my standard for colors.

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The dark green tone does look a bit dark, but numerus other photos allowed me artistic license to compromise on the final choice, so there we have it. Look closely at the closest fuel tank, almost an exact match, same for the light green portion of the nose looking at the lower portion just above where the white floor meets. The dark green is a toss-up in that photo, but I think it will work just fine.

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Since the spray booth session, I’ve touched up areas around the canopy and begun working the tires, landing gear, and prepping all the other smaller parts for the cockpit dash and mirrors for the canopy.

More to follow soon and thanks for watchin. Cheers, Ski.
 
Thanks, MP. You know as well as I do, I wouldn't be sleeping well if I didn't fix the boofs.🤣😂 It's one of those things about being "anal retentive" that just never goes away, HA!
 
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