Wouldn't the paint act as a quality check if a bolt is loosening?
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Tamiya Spitfire Mk IX (1/32)
- Thread starter paddy
- Start date
I'd only trust period photographs...
The Magnificent Merlin
Merlin and Griffon Engines in Spitfires
How Rolls Royce Improved the Merlin's Power Output
The Magnificent Merlin
Merlin and Griffon Engines in Spitfires
How Rolls Royce Improved the Merlin's Power Output
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I have one of the old Paasche Air Eraser (micro sand blaster) which I have been using to bead blast certain bezels on watches to get the right finish. The thing with the beads is that they are not abrasive, but are round beads and thus don't cut. I might at some point do an experiment to see how it will affect a surface finish if I bead blast the surface paint off.
paddy
Well-known member
That could work Paul certainly worth a try. As much as the problem of wear is what's underneath and not removing that as well, thats why i experimented with foil as a base as while paint will lift using for instance a n auto rubbing compound it wont lift the foil. I expect it will come down to airbrush skills, its probably easier to spray the finish you want than to spry a finish you dont want and try and alter it 
This was achieved simply wiping with rubbing alcohol. you have a degree of control because while it thins paint when wet the longer you leave it to harden th4e less effect the alcohol has , 15 minutes is all it akes between wiping the paint off and having to rub quite hard to get it off so timing would be key.
A problem with chipping fluid on this job would be the 2 colours and the time frame, you really need to be doing the chipping after about 30 minutes drying, after the top coat goes really hard, say next day its probably not going to chip. If like me you spray the camo as all over green and add the brown disrupter later i doubt it will chip where there are two colours on top of each other
This was achieved simply wiping with rubbing alcohol. you have a degree of control because while it thins paint when wet the longer you leave it to harden th4e less effect the alcohol has , 15 minutes is all it akes between wiping the paint off and having to rub quite hard to get it off so timing would be key.A problem with chipping fluid on this job would be the 2 colours and the time frame, you really need to be doing the chipping after about 30 minutes drying, after the top coat goes really hard, say next day its probably not going to chip. If like me you spray the camo as all over green and add the brown disrupter later i doubt it will chip where there are two colours on top of each other
Really like this effect! Go Paddy go!
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
Nice effects!
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I might do some tests sometime down the road on a piece of acrylic or scrap styrene to do the air eraser. I already know that I will have to do a clear coat over the silver base to give a band of forgiveness.
It will be an interesting experiment to say the least.
It will be an interesting experiment to say the least.
paddy
Well-known member
I think i mentioned that i am building this for someone else, its a request I'm not going mad on it, you could add a lot to this like any build but its going to be 98% OTB
the engine is quite nice, it made up of 50 pieces believe it or not. again you could really detail this with piping and wires
Some really large emissions from Tamiya including the ignition wiring and the RR name from the rocker cover, I am told that after market do an ignition loom and PE name plates for the rocker covers .
again you could go to town on this but i doubt much would be seen and bear in mind i am going for "war weary" here so its not a plan that really lends itself to picking out detail.
I'm not going mad on it, you could add a lot to this like any build but its going to be 98% OTBthe engine is quite nice, it made up of 50 pieces believe it or not. again you could really detail this with piping and wires
Some really large emissions from Tamiya including the ignition wiring and the RR name from the rocker cover, I am told that after market do an ignition loom and PE name plates for the rocker covers .
again you could go to town on this but i doubt much would be seen and bear in mind i am going for "war weary" here so its not a plan that really lends itself to picking out detail.
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Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Ah, I don't think you mentioned that this was a build for someone. Still looking really good Paddy. If the cowling is to be closed all you need is bare minimum that would be seen on the engine. I have a Bf109 that is in process that you could see the front top of the engine through some openings in the cowling and thus did what was needed to see what should be there.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
With what I have been working on, something just came to mind, what primer(s) were used on British aircraft during the war? There is always talk about what external colors were used, but what color was the primer under the outer paint? I have a couple of photos of P-38s where the paint is worn down into the red primer underneath. One of these planes is at the Udvar Hazy Smithsonian.
This is just a thought as you are doing a Spitfire with worn paint.
This is just a thought as you are doing a Spitfire with worn paint.
paddy
Well-known member
Wow, huge question and a million answers. Primers depended on the material, the manufacturer and the type of top coat
With a cellulose top coat then light sea and mediums sea grey undercoats were common.
Red was typically used on fabric as a shrink coat rather than a primer, you see #red on fabric surfaces like hurricane wings, ailerons rudders etc. its also the reason why gun ports are often red as they would dope fabric over them on fighters. It gets complicated when Bristol used the red as a primer for cellulose on all aircraft when others used grey a whatever they had.
spitfire elevators were fabric till 1944 above
The cockpit green on RAF aircraft was the equivariant of US zinc chromate but not zinc chromate, it was a corrosion inhibitor coating not a finish paint
Wooden aircraft like the Mosquito used a clear or silver tautening dope on the wood and fabric
as a general rule cellulose primer was light or dark grey .........or any other colour available that day
On US aircraft oxide paints were common, they tinted it red so it was more obvious when you missed a bit, the navy Tended to towards yellow oxide or zinc chromate.
With a cellulose top coat then light sea and mediums sea grey undercoats were common.
Red was typically used on fabric as a shrink coat rather than a primer, you see #red on fabric surfaces like hurricane wings, ailerons rudders etc. its also the reason why gun ports are often red as they would dope fabric over them on fighters. It gets complicated when Bristol used the red as a primer for cellulose on all aircraft when others used grey a whatever they had.
spitfire elevators were fabric till 1944 above
The cockpit green on RAF aircraft was the equivariant of US zinc chromate but not zinc chromate, it was a corrosion inhibitor coating not a finish paint
Wooden aircraft like the Mosquito used a clear or silver tautening dope on the wood and fabric
as a general rule cellulose primer was light or dark grey .........or any other colour available that day
On US aircraft oxide paints were common, they tinted it red so it was more obvious when you missed a bit, the navy Tended to towards yellow oxide or zinc chromate.
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Didn't we just have a video about how to spray al la RAF colors?
I don't recall if colors...sorry ol' chap, Colours are mentioned.
First mention of primer.
I don't recall if colors...sorry ol' chap, Colours are mentioned.
First mention of primer.
Not to muddy the waters.
Another technique, I've done this before on something.
Another technique, I've done this before on something.
paddy
Well-known member
I cant argue with the quality of the parts and the fit. Probably the b est i have come across but i would take issue with the missing detail. Parts that in this scale should be prominent are simply excluded. the lack of a wiring loom which can be seen especially between the V on the top of the engine which is just left plain. The lack of plumbing so parts like the now fitted intercooler header tank are not just missing the pipe work but there are no marks where the fitting should be either on the tank or the engine. As mentioned the name plates on the valve covers and several other small parts that could easily be included.
I would go so far as to say this could actually be a model that would warrant some after market just to replace missing parts. i have no idea why Tamiya would just omit these parts on a model so carefully designed to show its engine.
During engine assembly i have fitted, as instructed, 8 super strong magnets inside that will later hold the engine covers on.
I think this is as far as i can go before i need to add weathering, did is say weathering ? i mean server weathering its looking far to neat and tidy.
Dont panic , it will get better ;-)
the engine complete has two prongs out the back of the bulkhead that just push fit into a simular bulk head in front of the instrument panel so positioning is set for you, its dropped as bit forward here but its just push fitted
I would go so far as to say this could actually be a model that would warrant some after market just to replace missing parts. i have no idea why Tamiya would just omit these parts on a model so carefully designed to show its engine.
During engine assembly i have fitted, as instructed, 8 super strong magnets inside that will later hold the engine covers on.
I think this is as far as i can go before i need to add weathering, did is say weathering ? i mean server weathering
its looking far to neat and tidy.Dont panic , it will get better ;-)
the engine complete has two prongs out the back of the bulkhead that just push fit into a simular bulk head in front of the instrument panel so positioning is set for you, its dropped as bit forward here but its just push fitted
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Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Yeah, it seems that a model company goes all out until. . . . it hits the "That's Enough" wall, wherever that is. With your kit it is the items you just mentioned. With other kits it is other parts. It would be nice if they could at least give the points for the wiring and plumbing to mate up. My 251 build is similar, but they left stuff off that if you build it fully assembled the chassis parts are hidden. Das Werk did add points on the back sides of the instruments for all the wiring loom connections, and there are plenty. I will just have to figure out what color wiring and where to route it from the visible area.
If I'm not mistaken the Mustang Merlin did have some more parts than this. I guess they are encouraging aftermarket development.
paddy
Well-known member
I think its just that i expected a bit more from a kit that caused such a stir when it was launched,
I think like a lot of things these days it costs a small fortune to develop and the longer its under development the longer its not producing a revenue stream, so it always going to be a compromise between cost and the need to see a retune. one thing that stands out is the number of parts included that are not used. It was obviously produced with a lot more than the initial MkIXc in mind but it begs the question, why include 3 sets of under carriage doors with minor changes in rivet pattern (they all fit in the same wing) and then ignore complete assembly's in other parts.
Oh well, it doesnt matter to be honest unless you are sitting there with a pile of reference books......................................oh , hang on
I think like a lot of things these days it costs a small fortune to develop and the longer its under development the longer its not producing a revenue stream, so it always going to be a compromise between cost and the need to see a retune. one thing that stands out is the number of parts included that are not used. It was obviously produced with a lot more than the initial MkIXc in mind but it begs the question, why include 3 sets of under carriage doors with minor changes in rivet pattern (they all fit in the same wing) and then ignore complete assembly's in other parts.
Oh well, it doesnt matter to be honest unless you are sitting there with a pile of reference books......................................oh , hang on
