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Tamiya 1/16 Pz IV J

ausf

Master at Arms
I'll start a build thread on this since it's a kit and I don't have to figure anything out on how to RC it, Tamiya has done all that work for me (at great expense of course).

I got a bit of a shock at the start; it turns out that Tamiya used ABS on the 5 'A' sprues (roadwheels and return rollers). After glueing with my trusty Testors Blue, clamping, unclamping and picking up the pieces again, I had to grab some MEK to get the job done. I've never come across this with any other kit, the remainder, thankful is just plain old styrene. I always wash the sprues before I start a kit and something felt odd, but I put it off to a different finish on the wheels, not thinking material.

Tamiya recommends of course, their Extra Thin Cement so I assume that's MEK based. I wish they put a little heads up in the direction though, they can't assume someone wouldn't use any other glue.

Off to some pics:

First is the aluminum hull onto which I applied some zimmerit. I have great ref pics of this particular pattern, the initial vertical rows are gone over around all obstructions. The front and rear will be covered by spare track links and mud splatter respectively. The sides will most likely be covered by Thoma Schurzen.


p4a.jpg


p4b.jpg


p4c.jpg


And up on her feet. The bogies are steel with a leaf spring and roller bearing.

p4d.jpg


I'm going to prime and paint the lower next before installing the tires, the electronics and gearboxes, then it's off to the upper.
 
I'm loving the zimm! The Tamiya Extra Thin has been my weapon of choice ever since I tried it about a year ago, the applicator works nicely and I really like the adhesion. Looking forward to your next update! (y)
 
Nice zim work on the large-scale beast. Tamiya is somewhat proprietary in their glue and paint assumptions, always have been. Glad you found a suitable alternative to your glue issues!
 
B) Nice
I didn't know you could get this in 1/16!
Have you got a shot of the box lid and what is the $cost for one of these babies?
Is it the early or mid version?

Ian.
 
Thanks for the kind words guys, the lower has been primed, painted, Futured and test assembled for RC, Photos to follow.

As I was starting to assemble the upper, I noticed the sprues were marked 'PS' near the copyright info. So I checked the 5 As and yep, they're marked 'ABS', so Tamiya did deferentiate, I just missed it. :blush:

Ian, I'll grab a box photo, these come in a suitcase and with all the electronics, motors, gearboxes, they are pretty pricey, usually in the high $700s. The Tiger I and M4 can be found for around $500. There is a lifetime warranty (for US) on the electronics and as anything Tamiya, they are well engineered, just expensive. I have had the Tiger and M4 for nearly 10 years now and they still run perfectly even surviving my sons. The Tiger survived being driven off a wall and bounced down a few steps. The T-34 I built is a Trumpeter kit, but all the guttywuts are from the old M4.
 
An update.

I blasted the lower hull with Vallejo Grey Primer, than their Model Air Dunkelgelb and two coats of Future. The only other color here was the dry brushing of oily steel on the plastic return rollers before the Future coat. This gives a tough, solid finish before everything else and gets me to the point where I could install the rubber tires and gears, motors and electronics. The drive sprocket, idler and tracks are only on temporarily to check for function, they'll come off for paint and weather. It rides beautiful and tracks straight, drifting about an inch over 30 feet without adjustments. The sound is great too.

Front and sides (right side showing suspension deflection):

p4f.jpg


p4e.jpg


Can't leave the muffler untouched of course. Drilled out the pipe too and it'll get the appropriate rust treatment.

p4g.jpg


Lastly, I was lucky to find a recycler on eBay who was selling copper mesh in an appropriate size for the Thoma Shields. Copper or brass was important so I could solder the frames and brackets. This is an exact match to my reference pics (15 across the width of a roadwheel). Even better it was only $5 for a square foot, shipped. Muffler to give perspective:

p4h.jpg
 
An update.

I blasted the lower hull with Vallejo Grey Primer, than their Model Air Dunkelgelb and two coats of Future. The only other color here was the dry brushing of oily steel on the plastic return rollers before the Future coat. This gives a tough, solid finish before everything else and gets me to the point where I could install the rubber tires and gears, motors and electronics. The drive sprocket, idler and tracks are only on temporarily to check for function, they'll come off for paint and weather. It rides beautiful and tracks straight, drifting about an inch over 30 feet without adjustments. The sound is great too.

Front and sides (right side showing suspension deflection):

p4f.jpg


p4e.jpg


Can't leave the muffler untouched of course. Drilled out the pipe too and it'll get the appropriate rust treatment.

p4g.jpg


Lastly, I was lucky to find a recycler on eBay who was selling copper mesh in an appropriate size for the Thoma Shields. Copper or brass was important so I could solder the frames and brackets. This is an exact match to my reference pics (15 across the width of a roadwheel). Even better it was only $5 for a square foot, shipped. Muffler to give perspective:

p4h.jpg

Can't believe I missed this update :facepalm

Great job
 
Thanks again guys.

Slowed down abit as I am working out the Thoma Schurzen, but here's a quick look. I used copper mesh, wrapped with .005 brass stock, cut, tack soldered and folded over. Played around a bit with damage, the denting is intentional. I just need to clean up some solder.

I needed to get to this stage with the fender brackets and bar, so I know where to line up the holder on the plates themselves. I only built the two mid brackets so far, but they hold the bar steady as is.

I'm contemplating whether to make them removable or not. I set up the body with magnets and a rear pivot, so the schurzen won't be in the way if they are set permanently. They are flexible enough that I don't think any contact will disturb them. I soldered the ends, so the mesh won't unravel.

It's hard to get a good photo in the shiney copper state, hopefully you can see it when it's painted, the mesh is almost identical to my ref photos.

pz4k.jpg


pz4j.jpg
 
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