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Pigments in General

I'm not gonna tell....NAAAAH!

h44a655b.jpg


Watch my Sherman build.
:eek:hyeah

Terry
 
While all this is interesting, it doesn't affect me either. I don't use either Mig pigments or AK Interactive products since I cannot afford any of them. I just keep using the leftover Tankrat weathering powders whenever I use any kind of powders or pigments. Once they are gone, I'll look for alternatives or learn from Terry how to do my own.
 
But with out store bought pigments where will you get your "European Dust" or "Russian Concrete" or "German Mud" or "French Latrine"! ;)
 
The well known brands do have some nice pigments,but if you want to save some money go to the art hobby supply shop for pigments,to get good quality and more for less money.
I also used pastel chalks for several years (it works fine),but I do find that true pigments are superior to pastel chalks.
...and if you add linseed oil to your true pigments you will get (surprice,surprice) oil paint. :D



Greetings,Ron.
 
Tip with pastels : to avoid dissolving the pastels with Dull/gloss coat I use a layer of artist's fixativ to hold it's full vibrancy.
 
I pulled these comments off the original thread about AK Interactive shakeup seeing how we went off subject.

now...

What exactly is Artist Fixativ? I just fell victim to the washing out of pigments due to a dullcoat.
 
...if you want to save some money go to the art hobby supply shop for pigments

Exactly, that's what the 'big names' do, they use artist grade pigments and create mixes to get desired colors. Names like 'Black Smoke' or 'Drak Rust' are pretty inconsequential, but they have to call them something and it can help guide a person towards the colors better uses.



I do find that true pigments are superior to pastel chalks.

Most certainly.

Plus, you aren't 'making' pigments by grinding up pastel chalks because they already are pigments... pigments mixed with a binder (gum arabic, gum tragacanth, methyl cellulose etc.) and pressed into solid sticks using a chalk or gypsum component.

All you are doing is just breaking up the binder which holds them together for use in art applications and in the end, all you you have pigments heavily diluted by a couple different components used in the binding process. This is why those 'big names' can accurately say their pigments are superior, because they are raw color, undiluted by additives. If modelers are looking to beat out the 'big corporate guys' by making their own, they're far better off getting true raw pigments at the art store and mixing into desired colors.

;)
 
I thought about adding a pigment line a while back, but ultimately decided against due to labeling, cost of vessels and packing. I have a bunch of 80 lb. bags of artist quality pigments in storage.

If there's interest and you guys don't mind getting them in small bags, I can let you know what I have and get a price. I also have fumed silica (non hazardous) micro balloons for snow.
 
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