Painters

[Paulw]

Ok so an update.
I wasnt happy with the dust i had although it was only a few specs it did notice. I flattened the whole thing back to a uniform finish with 3000 grit and removed the dust but then i found if you do that it also removes the metallic effect
I am using Tamiya rattle cans with Mica paint thats like a std metallic but much smaller particles so more to scale on a model.
I want to now give it a clear coat but I'm paranoid about dust now having got rid of it in the colour coat so i got some of those vacuum packed lens cloths today and will give the paint another day to harden then go for the gloss clear, all being good i will give it a week then cut the clear coat back..

Here is the dust free attempt and also a close up of the fine metallicView attachment 168174View attachment 168175

I think my problem was the part was originally sat in a box and the spray stirred up dust, this time i did it hanging in the open so no dust to disturb.
Any way....pleased with these results.

That looks almost flawless, Paddy.

 

[Piet]

Don't do many shiny paint work ,
The ones i did ,i did in the bathroom there is no dust there it all tiled up.
I used an anti static cloth to wipe the parts down before i spray .
And make sure your the only one at home !

 

[Greg Kimsey]

I'm advising you not to put Humbrol solvent clear over acrylic paint, Sir Pup.

Hmm, whyzat? I have often used a solvent base paint over acrylic. Is it a Humbrol specific thing?

 

[helios]

Enamels are definitely more finicky than other solvent paints. I go back and forth between Tamiya acrylics (granted they are a solvent based acrylic) & MRP lacquers w/o any issues. I generally try to give them a full day to air out before I switch.

I definitely remember having issues w/ Testors enamels...they really disliked being applied over certain paints. Hell, certain lacquers reacted with them.....

 

[moon puppy]

Hmm, whyzat? I have often used a solvent base paint over acrylic. Is it a Humbrol specific thing?

There was a great article at the old Swannys Models site that explained it all. Basically acrylics are a more porous finish than enamels. Enamels will create a rock hard finish where acrylics tend to be softer. I've done enamels over acrylic in the past and see the enamel crack because the acrylic didn't cure long enough. I've actually forgotten all this.

 

[paddy]

Cracking is usually because the under coat wasnt fully dry, paints contract as they dry and if the under coat dries slower than the top coat the under cost will crack the top coat as it contracts/dries. I found this out when i sprayed the front wing on my MGB years ago, i gave it clear coat that set on top of the still contracting base coat and the whole thing crazed

 

[Rhino]

I will admit the biggest thing I have airbrushed recently is the Airfix 1/72 DH.88, so I spray much less paint that all y'all. It is rare, indeed that I put solvent based paint over...................
No, nevermind.

 

[Barney]

What I fiind works (for me at least) is I only use I type of paint on a model. Gunze, Tamiya, AK, & Hataka. It isn't easy to limit myself this way, but it works for me. I fondly remember Matt's old site. There was lots of good information there!

 

[Rhino]

I was about to go on about not spraying solvent paint over acrylics and how that NEVER works and don't be dim, when I remembered Frank Miller's Alclad trick that I use frequently. Base coat + Future + Alclad. It works like a champ every time.

I had to find my nice, hot cup of Shut-the-F#ck-up and take a good long pull. I ate me some crow as well. Very filling.

I will stand by my "You cain't rush the chemicals". That being said, perhaps painting advice is better left to those that spray more than 3 drops at a time. I never did and do not now "Know it all". I never wished to sound like THAT guy.
Apologies, Brothers.

 

[Barney]

I brew my STFU by the barrel, saves time.

 

[Heavens Eagle]

I tend to let the paint dry for a day or two before hitting it with another coat. Have always gone by the MFG process on complex paint (like Alclad) The other thing I have found is that I MUST take the tip off periodically and clean the crud out that builds up. Even though I have a pretty decent rinse out method that works great on the Sotar airbrushes. Crud will still catch just behind the nozzle inside and build up.