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MHF Crocker

Can you use Johnson's Clear to hold the links together before you swage them?
It was all I could think of.
 
I am very impressed with MFH's PE. Normally you find Eduard and Aires sort of texture the surface to add detail which is lost as soon as you paint it.
This PE is actually 3D so these stared out shiny stainless and i sprayed them black then rubbed them on a flat sanding stick to give this effect, detail is superb even if one is a tad crooked. i will correct that, nothing worse than a Crooked Crocker... :)

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And ...back to bare metal :rotf

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Sorry i couldnt live with the kit design or at least my attempt at it.... the join between white decals and white paint just leapt off the tank and poked me in the eye every time i looked at it.. Thinking cap back on....

I used the Revell chrome paint for the reflector and its really good especially on parts like this that will be sealed up and wont be handled

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Been doing a bit with the front suspension


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and have attached the running boards now.


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Are you sealing your masking tape with a clear before you paint over it?
That's kind of a dumb question to ask an accomplished model maker.
 
Not ever done that so maybe i am dumb :)
The problem is i used their plastic electrical type tape they sell for curves and the more i squash it down the more the glue squashes out along the edge.

May be my roll is past its best...
for this build i am going to go for a plain colour with maybe some pinstripes like the mudguards.
 
I like Model Master lacquer Metalizer Sealer best for sealing any masking I do between colours. It cures quickly and doesn't add much to the thickness of the paint. I use it to undercoat my decals too. The catch is, they don't make it anymore. I like Future (Johnson's Clear) but my Solvaset sometimes makes a mess of acrylic clear when I decal.
Any acrylic clear should to nicely.
 
I got the front end fitted to the rear end last night, so far so good, no Drama, not parts that dont fit, as the Germans would say......everything is satisfactory. :rotf

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