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MFH Matra MS11 F1
- Thread starter paddy
- Start date
What you need Paddy is a 1:24 garage scene to stage your wip photos! No one would know if it's real or not.
paddy
Well-known member
It would look odd Bob, these are 1/12
Seriously i have considered a backdrop for my bikes and cars but its a project that has been spoiled by AI. Lots of people just superimpose their models on to pictures of tracks or pits but i think if you are going to do that you might as well Take a photo of the real thing and superimpose it on to a picture of your shelf
and then you dont need to build the model.I have just had a real strange conversation on FB with a guy that has stopped buying MFH models as its cheaper to just buy diecast ready made models..............Isn't building the things what its all about ....lol
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We'll yeah but...ok you know.
I mean I could see that if you want to just paint and weather a subject but I don't get the vibe that's what the bloke was doing.
paddy
Well-known member
I'm not sure why, but MFH dont like to make parts of any length , instead they will make 2 parts with a stepped joint in the middle like this
an easy upgrade is to cut the joints and fitting off the ends and in this case drill them 1mm , cut a new one piece rod from ally tube and insert 1mm pins
Super glue the whole lot together and fit
Much better than an obvious joint.
an easy upgrade is to cut the joints and fitting off the ends and in this case drill them 1mm , cut a new one piece rod from ally tube and insert 1mm pins
Super glue the whole lot together and fit
Much better than an obvious joint.
paddy
Well-known member
I have got some of the rear drive on the left here. it took me hours as the hub is basically held in its position by 5 suspension arms that all converge on the stub axel . The trick will be getting the other side symmetrical to this side
. Everything is very bendy at this stage but once all 5 arms are in position the whole thing becomes quite solid. A small bend on 1 part does throw the whole thing out.
This is where I wish these types of kits used scale hardware so you can literally do alignment adjustment, I mean this big, why wouldn't you be able to?
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
If the parts were a little less bendy it might be possible to do hardware. With care it probably still can be possible to do a kit in this scale where the suspension can be adjusted.
I am loving the 1/16th kits as I have been able to make things "work" with only a little creative assembly and modification.
I am loving the 1/16th kits as I have been able to make things "work" with only a little creative assembly and modification.
paddy
Well-known member
The working out how its going to fit together is some on the fun with these kits. Adjustments wouldn't work with this white metal, you couldn't even thread it really its that soft . None of the build has any integrity until all parts are in place as each relies on the next bit for support and strength. Once a section is assembled it is actually pretty robust
all in all that worked quite well but the secret with these kits seems to be getting the parts spot on as you go or the further you get, the more creeping errors will catch up with you further down the line. Also dont expect anything in the box to be straight. The drive shafts here were a few degrees out but over their length that throws everything else out as well. The bottom tie rods are also critical and however carefully get them to length it makes no odds if you drilled the holes for them to deep or too shallow or at the wrong angle and both those dimensions are for you to work out so dry builds ahead of any glue are again essential. I think one of the reason i like these is they are 100% absorbing, they throw up problems but nothing unsurmountable really, you just need to be in the zone and completely focused ( And you need to read Pauls bit on keeping your tweezers fit for the job)
all in all that worked quite well but the secret with these kits seems to be getting the parts spot on as you go or the further you get, the more creeping errors will catch up with you further down the line. Also dont expect anything in the box to be straight. The drive shafts here were a few degrees out but over their length that throws everything else out as well. The bottom tie rods are also critical and however carefully get them to length it makes no odds if you drilled the holes for them to deep or too shallow or at the wrong angle and both those dimensions are for you to work out so dry builds ahead of any glue are again essential. I think one of the reason i like these is they are 100% absorbing, they throw up problems but nothing unsurmountable really, you just need to be in the zone and completely focused ( And you need to read Pauls bit on keeping your tweezers fit for the job)
