MFH Abarth 1000-SP 1/12

[paddy]

Thanks Steve, i have some baking soda so i will experiment

on a comedy note.... I found a rattle can of wrinkle finish paint, its an automotive paint that i bought about 40 years ago for the dashboard of my 1967 MGB
What could possibly got wrong ?

well after about 5 mins of shaking the rattle ball freed itself and i could feel the paint sloshing about in the can so another 10 mins of shaking i gave it a try on a test piece.
Blast the button is stuck
i gave it a knock and it went down and still nothing came out.....
Then i realised the black syrupy paint was coming out around the base of the push nozzle and the button was stuck down .... the volume increased and it was bubbling up and running down the can and i couldnt get the button back up !!!!!!! and i was in the kitchen. fearing that the button would blow i opened the window and tossed the can out where it pretty much exploded on the grass and blew the button off
I am amazed at the pressure in that can after 40 years...
I might buy a new can tomorrow as it would be an easy cure for my problem...

 

[moon puppy]

A modern can would have blown up on impact.

 

[paddy]

I think concentrating on each panel individually and finishing it is the way forward until i think of a better way.
The rear engine cover was a failure paint wise. The problem is there are Protrusions and lumps and bumps which makes polishing very awkward so you need to spray a finish, unlike flat panels that can be rubbed back.
I put the original painted panel in a the ultrasonic cleaner with some Acetone which stripped the paint and turned the resin pink

I then over time gave it 2 coats of filler primer ( tempting to build a car in this colour )

teh finish looks good but its still not as good as a conventional plastic panel from Italeri.

I then gave it a coat of Grey fine primer so the base coat is the same as the rest of the car to avoid colour shade variations as Tamiya red is quite translucent

Then 3 coats of red. I still have orange peel but i am going to try and level that with clear coats after the decals and clear is much easier to rub back. As always it looks 10x worse in a photo than in real life.

I then gave the inside a coat of Matt clear

Again its a learning process as the resin finish requires a lot more work than standard injection moulded plastic.

 

[paddy]

Before i get too upset about my paint finish, a couple of observations.

I have noticed that MFH who build these for show purposes use a satin finish or a very defused lighting to avoid direct reflections.

I think this is more a defused lighting than a satin finish

But they also link their web page to a face book page where a professional studio is building their models and look at their efforts

that roof makes me feel a whole lot better

 

[moon puppy]

Sending polishing zen

 

[Heavens Eagle]

A number of years ago I learned something from an auto painter. If you wet mist a leveling thinner over the gloss paint while it is still a bit tacky, the orange peel and other blemishes flow and level out. The P-47 looked like black glass it was so smooth and the Bugatti was the same with the exception of a couple of small turds on one wing. I touched those up and rather than polish it, I misted more Mr. Leveling Thinner over the wing and that paint was smooth like glass as well.
Might be worth a try Paddy.