Gap Filling with CA

[Heavens Eagle]

I usually get the parts fit so the gap is minimal then mix a blend of thin and medium CA and using my trusty micro chisel applicator fill it in. At worse I end up with a tiny bit of CA on the surface edges that will clean off with a slight swipe of 1500 grit. What is nice is that it flows and fills the gap and with practice you can have it smooth, or have a slight depression like for a panel line, or if the parts come together a 90° angle you can do a real nice fine smooth fillet.
Mixing an older CA with a new thin CA also gives some good properties where the CA is thin, but doesn't set up instantly.

 

[Sharkmouth]

I usually get the parts fit so the gap is minimal then mix a blend of thin and medium CA and using my trusty micro chisel applicator fill it in. At worse I end up with a tiny bit of CA on the surface edges that will clean off with a slight swipe of 1500 grit. What is nice is that it flows and fills the gap and with practice you can have it smooth, or have a slight depression like for a panel line, or if the parts come together a 90° angle you can do a real nice fine smooth fillet.
Mixing an older CA with a new thin CA also gives some good properties where the CA is thin, but doesn't set up instantly.

I need to update my SBS as I never mentioned which of the four CA types I have were used. For the record, I used medium viscosity (regular) from my possible selection of:

1. Thin CA
2. Medium CA
3. Thick CA
4. Flexible CA

This is used like Tamiya Extra Thin where capillary action is desired BUT I need to use a super thin applicator or it will run everywhere where you want it and not! I also now use Baking Soda for the instant set up and gap filling as the "Insta-Cure" I use is expensive and stinks of roach spray. There is a new one, Fast Cap 2P-10, but it has acetone as the carrier so it messes up styrene.

 

[moon puppy]

I get it, there's several ways of filling gaps. Maybe a SBS from you guys how to do it with CA. I like the Mr Surfacer method personally. I find it easier to clean up and sand down.

 

[Heavens Eagle]

I use the Bob Smith accelerant which has very little smell and I put it on directly (usually about a drop or less) with a tool and let it flow over the surface of the CA. I had another accelerant that smelled bad and had a tendency to make the CA overheat and foam up. Got rid of that years ago.
Bob Smith Industries will put hobby shop or other logos on their products and I have used them for years.

 

[moon puppy]

Here you go Paul,
Here's a good chance to do a SBS for us, I know I could use a refresher because I do struggle with CA as a filler.

 

[Heavens Eagle]

The biggest trick I found is something that will feed the crack in SMALL amounts. Too large an amount and it doesn't flow down in the crack, it flows out on the surface, and you have CA to clean off.

 

[moon puppy]

The biggest trick I found is something that will feed the crack in SMALL amounts. Too large an amount and it doesn't flow down in the crack, it flows out on the surface, and you have CA to clean off.

That's exactly what I run into. Then I have a step that just doesn't disappear.

 

[Heavens Eagle]

If I do get a bit more than just a shiny spot on the top, I take one of the blue paper shop towels (or a piece of one and wipe it quickly. The blue shop towels don't usually leave any link unlike regular paper towels (yeah they are more expensive but there IS a good reason for that)
The other part is the shape of my applicator. That will take a photo.